Ross's extended city, easy entry Goblin- 06 SS/SC, NW Arkansas
- Thread starter Ross
- Start date
Desert Sasqwatch
Bigfoot Goblin
The Bridgestones are a good choice, have read many good things about them as an autocross tire. Some of the reviews talk about feedback before breaking loose, so chassis set up may be the crux of your rear end breaking free. Obviously, personal preference is very key here, what do you prefer mild understeer or mild oversteer? Seems that mild oversteer is desirable for autocross? 
Waterdriver
Goblin Guru
What cold/tire pressure are you running? Ambient air temp? Surface temp?
DCMoney
Goblin Guru
Stared doing a bunch of reading on dialing in the suspension and chassis. Appreciate the input. Would prefer mild oversteer.The Bridgestones are a good choice, have read many good things about them as an autocross tire. Some of the reviews talk about feedback before breaking loose, so chassis set up may be the crux of your rear end breaking free. Obviously, personal preference is very key here, what do you prefer mild understeer or mild oversteer? Seems that mild oversteer is desirable for autocross?
20psi all around, temps have been 60-75. No idea on surface temp. Temps are still in the 50s overnight here.
The level of grip is incredible on these tires. Need to dial in my set up.
Thanks everyone for their input. Sorry Ross for cluttering up your thread.
Ross
Goblin Guru
Hey, this isn't cluttering up my thread. I'm working on suspension with everyone else here too.
Yesterday I turned 90 degrees, and punched it. To my surprise, the back end kicked out a bit. Then I remembered my new suspension changes. Need to get use to the new settings... and keep learning.
Yesterday I turned 90 degrees, and punched it. To my surprise, the back end kicked out a bit. Then I remembered my new suspension changes. Need to get use to the new settings... and keep learning.
Ross
Goblin Guru
The brake/clutch reservoir suffered from a bent nipple where the clutch line attached,
so I cut it off (red circle) and plugged the hole with 5 minute epoxy,
and then tapped the clutch into the rear brake supply line. (Green circle)
This is a common problem, but I am testing whether this is an acceptible solution. update: (3 years later, this is still working well.)
so I cut it off (red circle) and plugged the hole with 5 minute epoxy,
and then tapped the clutch into the rear brake supply line. (Green circle)
This is a common problem, but I am testing whether this is an acceptible solution. update: (3 years later, this is still working well.)
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JERMzSS
Well-Known Member
Oh sounds like it's getting there! You running any chamber in the rear?
Ross
Goblin Guru
I added a vacuum regulator (SMC vacuum regulator IRV10-N09) ahead of the brake booster. Now I can use a lot more brake pedal before the tires lockup, and can adjust how much boost I want.
Also updated the engine tune with the new VE tune, MAF tune, and closed loop. Then took the goblin out and tested it.
The engine is a bit better (than just the MAF tune) at throttle control in first gear. This was my primary goal in tuning it. The goblin still can get jerky throttle control, but it is much better than it was with the stock Cobalt tune. The engine is now immediate throttle control. It had a slight hesitation before when I started applying throttle, but that is gone now.
Also updated the engine tune with the new VE tune, MAF tune, and closed loop. Then took the goblin out and tested it.
The engine is a bit better (than just the MAF tune) at throttle control in first gear. This was my primary goal in tuning it. The goblin still can get jerky throttle control, but it is much better than it was with the stock Cobalt tune. The engine is now immediate throttle control. It had a slight hesitation before when I started applying throttle, but that is gone now.
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RouteAbel
Well-Known Member
Thats a great idea. I may have to do the same because I think mine is damaged as well.
Ross
Goblin Guru
It has been ~2 weeks since the repair, seems to be working well. After emptying the brake reservoir, I cleaned it with brake cleaner, then scratched it a bit inside the hole with a round file, to give the epoxy something to bite into. I soaked a small wad of paper in epoxy, to plug the hole.
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OptimizePrime
Goblin Guru
I picked up that same vacuum regulator for my build, thanks for the pictures and happy to hear the positive results!
What do you have it set at?
What do you have it set at?
Ross
Goblin Guru
It was 44F today, when I test drove the goblin. Yesterday, I removed the seatbelts, and wash them using this video as my guide.
Today, I re-installed the seat belts, and they retract much better now. Also need to add more brake boost.
Only made it a few blocks from my house, before I turned around and headed for home.
Today, I re-installed the seat belts, and they retract much better now. Also need to add more brake boost.
Only made it a few blocks from my house, before I turned around and headed for home.
Ross
Goblin Guru
Replaced the passenger mirror/turn signal, and decided to run the wire thru the frame, and add 3 grommets.
Then moved on to making a new transmission cable mount.
It has a good angle, but the mount isn't rigid enough yet, and it is outside the frame.
It needs more work, but for now, it will work enough for a proof of concept for the new shifter.
Then moved on to making a new transmission cable mount.
It has a good angle, but the mount isn't rigid enough yet, and it is outside the frame.
It needs more work, but for now, it will work enough for a proof of concept for the new shifter.
Briann1177
Goblin Guru
Now
If that pic doesn't showcase the perks of painting your own frame, then I don't know what will.
Ross
Goblin Guru
My rod ends came in to a local motorcycle store, but they aren't the correct ones, so I am ordering online myself.
Turns out that the rod ends I need are custom. The DF cables have M6x1.00 threads, and the RSX shifter is made with 8mm shoulder bolts.
So I did a bunch of measuring, and figured out a new plan. I am converting the RSX shifter over using 6mm shoulder bolts, and can get 6mm rod ends for the DF cables. I have to wait a week for these parts,
I did get a new knob. It is buffed, and polished, it is perfectly smooth, made of carbon fiber. One of the 3 thread adapters worked for the M10x1.5 shaft on the RSX shifter.
Also managed to repurpose last year's autocross banner, and I like the new shop decore. They did spell DF Goblin wrong.
Turns out that the rod ends I need are custom. The DF cables have M6x1.00 threads, and the RSX shifter is made with 8mm shoulder bolts.
So I did a bunch of measuring, and figured out a new plan. I am converting the RSX shifter over using 6mm shoulder bolts, and can get 6mm rod ends for the DF cables. I have to wait a week for these parts,
| Female, Rod End, RH, 6mm ZORO #: G6221135 MFR #: MCFR6 | 5.43 | 2 | 10.86 |
| Female, Rod End, LH, 6mm Zoro #: G9171075 | 1 | 6.46 | |
| Shoulder Screw,6mmX12mm,M5 x 0.80mm, PK5 Zoro #: G0830304 | 1 | 3.49 |
I did get a new knob. It is buffed, and polished, it is perfectly smooth, made of carbon fiber. One of the 3 thread adapters worked for the M10x1.5 shaft on the RSX shifter.
Also managed to repurpose last year's autocross banner, and I like the new shop decore. They did spell DF Goblin wrong.
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