Ross's extended city, easy entry Goblin- 06 SS/SC, NW Arkansas

Ross

Ross

Goblin Guru
ccannx said:
I loosened the engine bolts, disconnected front and rear mounts and put straps around the engine and rear crossbar. Then removed the subframe and axles was able to work the trans free after that. Its takes a bit of muscle to lift it back in. next time I do it I will be wearing thicker pants and shirt.
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Good to know. So lowering the subframe and transmission will give me enough room to remove the engine. Thanks!
 
ccannx

ccannx

Goblin Guru
Ross said:
Good to know. So lowering the subframe and transmission will give me enough room to remove the engine. Thanks!
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Don't have to pull the engine to get to the slave (slave on trans)saving having to deal with the coolant. You will need to remove the subframe to get the trans off. I recall one bolt by the starter being difficult.
 
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Ross

Ross

Goblin Guru
Split the Goblin into 3 pieces. Now I can replace the clutch slave, inspect the clutch.
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Maybe fix the oil pressure sender, clean and paint the engine and tranny would be good. The oil pan has a small crack... the jack slipped. Been that way for a few months, but I would like to fix that too. Not planning the engine rebuild right now, but one day. Maybe put the new injectors and new 2.9" supercharger pulley on now... still has the stock internals.
 
Ross

Ross

Goblin Guru
Karter2026 said:
You still have the Cobalt shell?? :D
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LOL, well yes. It is sitting there, as I want to sell the stuff off it, but for the last year, I have been having so much fun building the Goblin that I haven't slowed down enough to start selling Cobalt stuff. I did sell the title & VIN to Jsix (John) so hopefully he could register his Goblin. That also means I don't have to pay taxes on the Cobalt, as I don't own it anymore... I own the parts.
 
Ross

Ross

Goblin Guru
Has anybody replaced these 3 shallow T30 head bolts with something better?
No wonder people strip these clutch slave bolts, they were hard to get out, and I half striped the heads too.
I don't see any reason to put back shallow headed bolts here. Maybe some normal height allan head cap bolts would work better.
Suggestions?
11496
 
ccannx

ccannx

Goblin Guru
Let us know what you find. I finally got a dyno tune done and couldn’t get a solid number horsepower wise due to a badly slipping clutch. Looks like I will be dropping the trans again and doing the clutch/flywheel and swapping in my new transmission.
 
ncgoblin

ncgoblin

Goblin Guru
Ross said:
Has anybody replaced these 3 shallow T30 head bolts with something better?
No wonder people strip these clutch slave bolts, they were hard to get out, and I half striped the heads too.
I don't see any reason to put back shallow headed bolts here. Maybe some normal height allan head cap bolts would work better.
Suggestions?
View attachment 11496
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Not sure if these will work they are replacement for the clutch pressure plate that I used much higher quality.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-671-1017/
 
Lonny

Lonny

Administrator
Staff member
I usually take an old 3/8 extension and place it against the head of the screw holding the extension straight with the screw. Then strike the extension with a hammer a few times. This crushes the aluminum behind the head of the screw a little which leaves the screw loose.

You may have to repeat this a few times.
 
Ross

Ross

Goblin Guru
Lonny said:
I usually take an old 3/8 extension and place it against the head of the screw holding the extension straight with the screw. Then strike the extension with a hammer a few times. This crushes the aluminum behind the head of the screw a little which leaves the screw loose.

You may have to repeat this a few times.
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Thanks Lonny. I used my 1/2" hand held impact and a hammer to get them out, which probably did exactly what you said.
At least I got them out! I don't want to put them back in - even new ones, as they are poorly engineered for the job, and I can't see any reason why Chevy used thin headed shallow T30 bolts.
 
George

George

Goblin Guru
Lonny said:
I usually take an old 3/8 extension and place it against the head of the screw holding the extension straight with the screw. Then strike the extension with a hammer a few times. This crushes the aluminum behind the head of the screw a little which leaves the screw loose.

You may have to repeat this a few times.
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That procedure is spelled out in the SAAB transmission repair manual.
Brad
 
George

George

Goblin Guru
Ross said:
Thanks Lonny. I used my 1/2" hand held impact and a hammer to get them out, which probably did exactly what you said.
At least I got them out! I don't want to put them back in - even new ones, as they are poorly engineered for the job, and I can't see any reason why Chevy used thin headed shallow T30 bolts.
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Make sure the thicker headed bolt does not restrict slave cylinder from moving all the way to the bottom.

Brad
 
Ross

Ross

Goblin Guru
Clutch inspection time. There is a bit of metal transfer from the clutch to the flywheel. Maybe some road debris got in, or maybe just a hard life. There is 1mm of clutch material above the rivets, and the flywheel is more polished than scratched at the transfer area. Pressure plate shows some heat spotting. Need to buy a clutch. I want one that can handle high torque (350+ ft pds) but still be streetable.
11528

11529

11530
 
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Ross

Ross

Goblin Guru
AllDataDIY has the oil pressure sensor in the location that my engine has a plug:
11930


Anyone succeeded in removing this plug (2) out of an LSJ engine?
I'm using a Torx 40, and a hand impact, WD40, hot air gun, mapp gas... It is almost stripped... think my welder is next...
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My engine has (1) engine oil pressure switch located near the oil cooler.
(2) is the CKP crankshaft position sensor... which is 3 in the picture above.
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