Ross's extended city, easy entry Goblin- 06 SS/SC, NW Arkansas

Ross

Goblin Guru
Buying wheels and tires is so much fun. I must have looked at 40 wheels and another 40 tires in various combinations.

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I wanted to keep the gear ratios the same as the stock car, so I started with the stock tires that came with my donor:

5 spoke stock aluminum wheel 18"x7"
Toyo Proxes 4 plus 215/45r18, 25.6" high 7.75" wide.

Then looked for wheels and tires near that same 25.6" diameter.
I was looking for wide tires, and noticed that 17" Mustang wheels are cheap and 10.5" wide wheels.
Ended up choosing Nitto NT05R Drag Radial Tire - 315/35R17 which are 25.7" high.

The hard part is calculating the wheel spacer width: (But this tool helps make it easy: https://www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp )
I didn't want the wheels to intrude closer to the car, and rub, so I started calculating spacers that would keep the inside edge of the wheel at the same location.

2006 CHEVROLET COBALT_SS 18"x7" Wheel
Bolt Pattern: 5x110mm
Hub Diameter: 65.1mm
Width 203.2mm (7" inside width where the tire bead touches. actual wheel is 8"(203.2mm) wide on the outside)
Offset 42mm

1998 Mustang Cobra 17"x10.5" Wheel
Bolt Pattern: 5x114.3mm
wheel center bore 70.3mm
Width 11.5" (10.5" inside width where the tire bead touches. actual wheel is 11.5" wide on the outside)
Offset: 27mm
Backspacing: 173mm

The spacer's thickness will be the Mustang wheel backspacing (173mm) less the stock wheel backspacing.
Since I only have the stock offset, I calculated the backspacing (203.2mm/2 + 42mm) = 143.6mm

So to keep the inside wheel rim at the same location, I need a 173-143.6 = 29.4mm thick spacer.

But the new tires overhang the wheel more than the original tire, so the tire might rub if I don't include that in my calculations.
So the stock 215mm tire overhangs the 7" wheel by (215-(7*25.4))/2 = 18.6mm
The new 315mm tire overhangs the 10.5" wheel by (315-(10.5*25.4))/2 = 24.15mm
So to keep the inside of the tire at the same location, I need a (24.15-18.6)+29.4 = 34.95mm thick spacer.

But the new tires have more sidewall thickness than the stock tires, so they will move more during cornering. I don't know how much more, but I did measure the Cobalt SS hub stud length is 38.6 mm long. Since I want to go a little wider, a 39mm thick spacer will save me from trimming all the stock studs shorter. So this is what I went with. (Later realized that the brake rotor thickness gets subtracted from the hub stud length, but no big deal, 39mm works)

Ordered from http://motorsport-tech.com/ for custom made wheel adapters that are hub centric.
39mm thick wheel adapter.
from 5x110mm hub bolt pattern, Hub Diameter: 65.1mm
to 5x114.3mm wheel, center bore 70.3mm


Here is the results with those 39mm adapters and the mustang cobra wheels. About 1.25" (32mm). The 275mm tire doesn't overlap the wheel when sitting still, but it will flex over during cornering, and I sometimes run 315mm tires, which do overlap the wheel. Oh, this is with the BC racing coil overs, and 0.5 degrees camber.
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Desert Sasqwatch

Bigfoot Goblin
Woohoo! Looking good. BTW, like the white frame with the blue color from the donor in the background. Not sure if that is where you are headed, but I really like that combination.
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
Today I mounted the parking brake.... because everybody else is too.
I trimmed both sides of the handle base, to the same width as the tunnel cap, to allow room for the stock seats to slide.
I used the wide hole on the right side of the handle, which caused the nut to be right against the tunnel cap. (Maybe the other hole would have been the better choice)


The wide nut made me have to notch the tunnel.


But in the end, it all worked out.
 
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Ross

Goblin Guru
Thanks BaltimoreHokie.
The stock hoses aren't long enough to reach the coolant overflow tank. Am I suppose to use 2' of the supplied 3/4" x 5' hose, and hopefully have enough hose left over for the supercharger cooling system?
 

BaltimoreHokie

Goblin Guru
Well, I found a tube that worked and kind of fit the area well, 88429
I connected it to my overflow tank, then used one 3/4 connector to the stock hose.
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Ross

Goblin Guru
My goal is to have my kit on the road by/before mid July.
So I decided to start the paperwork early, even thou the car doesn't run yet.
Arkansas Office of Motor Vehicles wanted to see my DFKitCar MCO, title for the donor, and the bills of sale for both.
I paid $583 in taxes & $73 in penalties (apparently I was suppose to pay taxes on the donor last year), and my title will come in the mail in 4 or 5 weeks.

When I get ready to plate the kit,
I will have to show insurance, and pay $2 for a plate, as I have already paid for registration.

That was a lot easier than I expected.
No inspection required in Arkansas...
an officer may ticket it on the road if there is any issues, just like any other vehicle.
When I scrap the donor, I need to let them know, and I won't have to pay future property taxes on that car.
 

Karter2026

Goblin Guru
Well at least I feel good that it will take you 4-5 weeks to get a title. I thought PA was bad at 4-6 weeks I feel slightly better I mean slightly!
 

askiles

Goblin Guru
In AZ we have an inspection but we get the title in hand right then. AZ is a super easy state to get a kit car registered. Lucky for me!
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
I'm shopping for insurance, and they wanted some pictures... so I vacuumed and washed the Goblin. It doesn't have the wiring harness in it, but the brakes and steering work. I also put the stock wheels and tires back on...
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This pic just looks phallic... I'm thinking insurance doesn't need to see this one.

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Ross

Goblin Guru
Progressive Insurance got back to me today.
$309 for 6 months, with $2000 deductable on collision, $20,000 est. value.
$410 for 6 months, with $500 deductable.

All State Insurance still hasn't got back to me yet.
 

jamesm

Goblin Guru
I finally got insurance on mine through State Farm. Took 3 1/2 weeks of back and forth with the underwriters but they finally insured it. ~$750/yr for full coverage.
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
I finally got insurance on mine through State Farm. Took 3 1/2 weeks of back and forth with the underwriters but they finally insured it. ~$750/yr for full coverage.
Great news! Sorry it took so long. So you are ready for the road?
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
My data wire goes from the ODBII port to the power steering.
There is another tan/tan-black data wire going from the BCM to my PCM.
I thought these 2 data wires were suppose to all be 1.
Do I just solder a couple of jumpers between them?
9147
 

Dylan Stan

Active Member
My data wire goes from the ODBII port to the power steering.
There is another tan/tan-black data wire going from the BCM to my PCM.
I thought these 2 data wires were suppose to all be 1.
Do I just solder a couple of jumpers between them?
View attachment 9147
I know that when you cut out the abs unit, you just have to now connect both set of Data wire that come in and out of abs plug
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
My data wire goes from the ODBII port to the power steering.
There is another tan/tan-black data wire going from the BCM to my PCM.
I thought these 2 data wires were suppose to all be 1.
Do I just solder a couple of jumpers between them?
View attachment 9147
So I'm thinking, no. No need to solder a jumper wire between them.
Lonny explains "GM daisy chained a data wire in and out of many components on a Cobalt. On a Goblin it starts with the OBDII and then continues to the power steering, BCM, ECM and TCM. ... The pair of wires will always be twisted and usually one solid tan and one tan with a black stripe. Sometimes they may be brown and brown with a white stripe like the ones going in and back out of the power steering. ... Some of the components have to be plugged up (ie plugged into the electronic box) two allow data to continue on, like the power steering. It has to be pluged up for data to continue to the next system. "
 
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