Ross's extended city, easy entry Goblin- 06 SS/SC, NW Arkansas

Rauq

Rauq

Goblin Guru
Of course I saw your answer to the question in the post I read to re-figure out that you had parts to build a motor... haha

Ross said:
You are farther down this learning curve than I am... maybe I should be asking you what your power goals are!
Click to expand...
My power goal is to make nearly as much power as I can on a stock motor before I should expect it to have problems, so... low/mid 400s? I would guess I'm at mid-300s now and have done about 2/3 of the work that I will need to do to turn it up more. I do have a bit of a pipe dream to do a 2.1 build with an LE5 head and an E67...

Rttoys said:
A lot of builders don’t understand this, it’s even worse in the motorcycle world. The car is more capable than the driver. More power isn’t going to help you. As you build skills and dial in the car, then you add power. It all goes hand in hand.
Click to expand...
Ross said:
I would like a goblin that I find fun. Over time, as my driving ability and comfort level increase, I want more power for more fun.
...
Half the fun is building it, then making it controllable.
Click to expand...
I definitely don't need to make more power to have more fun driving it, but I think you hit the nail on the head- figuring out how to build something that does cool stuff and making it work is half the reason I'm in this deep. I get almost as much of a thrill building something with this much scoot and no lag as actually driving it. See above, though, I don't need to make any more power, but the idea of figuring out how to piece together and tune an oversquare VVT twincharged setup just does something for me.
 
Ross

Ross

Goblin Guru
I'm struggling getting this axel in. I always struggle with this step.
Lonny showed me how it is done with a 6 foot pry bar, but my 8 foot 2x4 bar isn't winning.
I thought it was because the clip isn't centered, but even with the clip removed, it still isn't going in.

I'm not even close, and it gets stuck.
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So I tried the other GS-P axle, the 2x4 got it a bit farther, but the rubber hammer did the job. This axle never got painted, but I'm just happy it fits.
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I will have to inspect this axle's splines to see if there is a dent or something easy to fix, otherwise, it is junk.
I put my used axle back on the right side.
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Desert Sasqwatch

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Ross, one trick is to have the split in the C-clip up at 12:00 - at least according to all the old mechanics who share their knowledge in the how-to videos. I haven't checked this myself, but it can't hurt to try this. :D
 
Ross

Ross

Goblin Guru
It's alive!
Torqued all the bolts, filled it with fluids, and took it on its' maiden voyage.
It ran on 3 cylinders for a bit, but after a few minutes, the computer figured it out, and started running on all 4 cylinders.
The thermostat didn't want to open, got it to 235F, still didn't open. I shut it off, and waited till it got down to 200F, restarted, and gave it some revs, it popped open the thermostat.
I checked the OBDii codes, it is looking good. Still burping air out of the coolant, but it runs.
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Ross

Ross

Goblin Guru
Took the goblin for a good shake down run today.
Before that run, I
- changed the oil in the transaxle. Added crush washers, that I had to lathe to the correct size.
- installed the braided brake lines on the rear
- painted and installed the DF brake proportioning valve in the front of the car (was under the hood before DF made their mount kit)
- vacuum bled the brakes
- topped up the engine coolant
- noticed oil dripping under the car, tightened the oil plug, as it was finger tight. Oops I missed one bolt when torquing.

During the test run:
- put some fresh fuel in it. The newly-bent-float had the gas gauge reading 1/4 tank. The fill up took 7.5 gallons. Maybe I got it bent right :)
- had brake fluid leaking from the proportioning valve. Retightened. Pressure bled the front brakes.
- Adjusted the proportioning valve.
. - It is 10.5 turns in total.
. - All the way out (counter clockwise) is maximum rear brakes.
. - All the way in (clockwise) is max front brakes.
. - After testing, I have it set at 6 turns clockwise from the max counter clockwise.

After the run, I have some things to follow up on:
- The check engine light turned on. Pulled the OBDii codes (below)
- Engine oil pressure switch has a broken connector. Need a new one.
- Charge the battery? Maybe that will fix the P0615 Starter Circuit Short., as the battery hasn't been used all winter.
- Cooling fan works if I jump the relay, but the ECU signal isn't throwing the relay when I turn it on in HP Tuners. Need to debug.
- The battery tray has some corrosion. Need to neutralize and repaint.
- install the hood.
- Buy new tail lights as one of them is down to 3 LEDs, the other still has all ~12 LEDs.
- The clutch is slipping if I abuse it. I think I will move the GMPP clutch from the other engine to here, and buy a puck clutch for that engine.
- The fuel system isn't holding pressure after the key is turned off. I don't see any fuel leaks, so it is either leaking past an injector, or leaking into the fuel return line.
46541
 
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JBINTX

JBINTX

Goblin Guru
Ross said:
Took the goblin for a good shake down run today.
Before that run, I
- changed the oil in the transaxle. Added crush washers, that I had to lathe to the correct size.
- installed the braided brake lines on the rear
- painted and installed the DF brake proportioning valve in the front of the car (was under the hood before DF made their mount kit)
- vacuum bled the brakes
- topped up the engine coolant
- noticed oil dripping under the car, tightened the oil plug, as it was finger tight. Oops I missed one bolt when torquing.

During the test run:
- put some fresh fuel in it. The newly-bent-float had the gas gauge reading 1/4 tank. The fill up took 7.5 gallons. Maybe I got it bent right :)
- had brake fluid leaking from the proportioning valve. Retightened. Pressure bled the front brakes.
- Adjusted the proportioning valve.
. - It is 10.5 turns in total.
. - All the way out (counter clockwise) is maximum rear brakes.
. - All the way in (clockwise) is max front brakes.
. - After testing, I have it set at 6 turns clockwise from the max counter clockwise.

After the run, I have some things to follow up on:
- The check engine light turned on. Pulled the OBDii codes (below)
- Engine oil pressure switch has a broken connector. Need a new one.
- Charge the battery? Maybe that will fix the P0615 Starter Circuit Short., as the battery hasn't been used all winter.
- Cooling fan works if I jump the relay, but the ECU signal isn't throwing the relay when I turn it on in HP Tuners. Need to debug.
- The battery tray has some corrosion. Need to neutralize and repaint.
- install the hood.
- Buy new tail lights as one of them is down to 3 LEDs, the other still has all ~12 LEDs.
- The clutch is slipping if I abuse it. I think I will move the GMPP clutch from the other engine to here, and buy a puck clutch for that engine.
- The fuel system isn't holding pressure after the key is turned off. I don't see any fuel leaks, so it is either leaking past an injector, or leaking into the fuel return line.
View attachment 46541
Click to expand...
And wheel nuts …. Shiny wheel nuts…..
 
Ross

Ross

Goblin Guru
So I got back from my eclipse weekend to find a puddle of oil under my goblin. Here is a couple images we captured from Conway, Arkansas, using a H-Alpha filter. Shows some nice filaments and some prominence of our sun.
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Leak is from above the drain plug, so I drained the transmission.
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This new seal is missing some of it's sealing edge.
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So far I have used 4 seals, and made 2 seal installer tools. I hope I got it sealed this time.
46713

On the bright side, I am getting better at installing the axle. Still a pain in the butt, especially if it tears the seal.
 
Ross

Ross

Goblin Guru
Well that scared me. There was a minor explosion, and then a bunch of crackles.
Oh the fun of getting to learn a new engine.
I don't see any damage, but my 6 rib serpentine belt is now a 5 rib. I feel better that it is a cheap fix.
Now if I could just find out where the smell of gas is coming from.... no drops on the floor, but if I close the garage door, the odor concentrates.
Probably the wife''s Tesla.
46759
 
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Ross

Ross

Goblin Guru
Good point. The fuel pump has always been a spot that collects dust. I did change out the fuel pump, and reuse the green O ring, torqued it until it touched the 1/4" drill bit as my thickness shim.
I made a trip out to the garage, and my nose agrees with you, the smell is stronger near the fuel pump.
Anyone have a better way to seal the pump? Maybe silicon caulk in that 1/4" gap?
Update:
I ordered Hylomar Universal Blue Gasket Sealer, as silicon is not made for fuel.
 
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Ross

Ross

Goblin Guru
The Cobalt 3 point seat belt retractor only takes a small rock to prevent it from working.
So I took it apart again, and this time I wrapped it with HVAC aluminum tape, to keep the rocks out.

While I was in there... I removed the SRS explosive belt retractor, and 2 feet of seat belt, as it was too long.
Then wound up the spring retraction with a bit more tension than before.
Saved 12.1 ounces, but probably added 2 ounces of HVAC tape.
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Ross

Ross

Goblin Guru
My 6 rib belt reduced itself to a 5 rib, and I was not looking forward to fighting with the Cobalt tensioner.
So I did a little welding to make a custom tool that slips over the tensioner.
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46905


With the help of some vice grips, I compressed the tensioner, and swapped out my belt.
This was my test of the tool, so it wasn't fully painted yet.
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