Tinkles Street Monster - No donor Extended City chassis

Tinkles

Well-Known Member
Half and half. I "designed" it and drew up plan. The shop that did the chassis work is going to build it for me off my plans.
 

Tinkles

Well-Known Member
I just gave the fab shop the go ahead to start on the fuel tank. I have had Wilwood parts start to trickle in. The brake rotors have to go back and I am getting custom ones made(more info in my Brembo thread). I started to install the radiator and I am not a fan of how the fan attaches and that it is not shrouded. So I got a hold of Mishimoto and have one of their 92-00 Civic X-line radiators and fan shroud kits on the way.

I also hit the cheap wheels with some Duplicolor Metalcast spray paint and got the tires tossed on the fronts. I still have to balance them and mount/balance the rears. I ran into issues with the higher priority jobs I was working on at the shop on my family's farm.

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And the front "race" wheels showed up too. I am thinking that eventually I will drop them off at a buddy's bodyshop to get properly painted red.

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Tinkles

Well-Known Member
I started looking into what clutch to use with my L61/F40 combo. The L61/LE5 both use a 6 bolt flywheel and the LSJ/LNF/LDK all use 8 bolt flywheels so it is impossible to use a LSJ/LNF flywheel on a L61. The F40 kit is designed for the LNF Cobalts, so a 8 bolt flywheel is included. So I thought, fine I will just use a F40 clutch disc with a L61 flywheel/pressure plate. I can't. Stock L61 clutch diameter is 9". The F40 is 9.5". The F40 has a higher spline count on the input shaft than the F23 that is used on the L61s, so I cannot just use a L61 clutch kit. HOWEVER, ZZP sells a 9.5" clutch kit for the L61/LE5 with a "custom" flywheel. I sent them a message, but probably wont hear back until after Monday to see if a F40 clutch disc and/or pressure plate will work with that kit. I am hoping it will and feel confident it will. I'll try to remember to make a specific thread when I get it figured out.
 

Tinkles

Well-Known Member
After talking with ZZP about their 9.5" clutch kit I have decided that the best route is to order a custom flywheel. I have an email out to Fidanza, just waiting to hear back.

My 2nd box from Wilwood arrived and so did half of my Mishimoto shipment.
 

Tinkles

Well-Known Member
I got the cheap tires on the "beater" wheels the other day and I spent tonight perfecting my measurements for the custom brake rotors. I had to test fit the wheels to see what it looked like. 17x8.5 25mm offset. 245/40R17 tires.

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I might be able to do down to a 16" wheel judging by the amount of clearance I have to the caliper.

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And this is a good feeling. I cannot tell ya how long I messed around with the side pods and this is exactly where I wanted them to be in relation to the wheels.

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It looks line Fidanza is a bust for a flywheel. No email reply and no one answered the phone every time I called.
 

Tinkles

Well-Known Member
I screwed up and I cannot believe that I did it. Soooo much time double and triple checking my measurements and I screwed up the simplest thing on these custom machined rotors. I feel like a MASSIVE idiot. Measuring everything with a micrometer, using math, researching the proper clearances, and I screwed up f***ing COUNTING!!!!! Urg. So disappointed in myself. I was so proud and excited for figuring this out. When I do this for the rear brakes I can promise ya the one thing I will not screw up at all.

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Ya see it? I hope so. It is extremely obvious. Hat has 12 mounting bolts, I ordered 8 mounting bolts. My most cost effective option to fix it is to return the Wilwood hats and have a custom set of hats made to match the rotor. The custom hats are going to cost just as much as the rotors, but I can atleast offset the cost with returning the Wilwood hats. Rotors were custom machined to my specs, I gave them the wrong spec and at this moment there is no car in the world that can safely run these rotors. I already made the correction on the spec sheet for the rotors if anyone else wants to go this route. But good news is that 4 of the bolt holes line up so I could still mock it up. The company offered to modify the Wilwood hats to fit the rotors(just needs 4 extra holes drilled and tapped), but Wilwood scalloped the outside of the hat which makes that option impossible.

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I didn't have time today to verify all of the specs, but at a quick glance it looks like I might have to adjust the rotor offset a few thousands for a perfect fitment with this Wilwood hat. I'll get it all figured out this weekend and maybe have the new hats in a week or 2.

Also I have my dual mass F40 flywheel on the way to CBM Motorsports. They are going to look at it is get me a price on a custom one.
 

OptimizePrime

Well-Known Member
I can appreciate the struggle brotha! Thanks for documenting this and taking on the project for the rest of us - don't beat yourself up! You're human
 

Tinkles

Well-Known Member
I got the Mishimoto radiator installed today. I didn't like not having a fan shroud. The Mishimoto core is a 1/4" thinner than the DF supplied radiator, FYI.
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The whole fan shroud assembly hit the top square bar so I used 2 25mm long threaded spacers to gain the needed clearance. I am not using the stock hood mount so if it hits the hood I can just raise up the hood pins. I also had to hog out the plastic adapters for the bottom. The DF supplied radiator was a very tight fit and the Mishimoto was even tighter.

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G Atsma

Well-Known Member
Not a single OEM e-fan runs without a shroud. At highway speeds there is sufficient air to cool, even with a shroud. Less, yes, compared to without, but it is so much better when the fan is on, which are the most crucial times. I would rather know it is working optimally when the fan is on than be concerned about lessened airflow because of the shroud.
 

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
Perhaps my comment wasn't worded well and come across wrong. I don't mean to imply that he has a poor design or anything by no means. Actually my comment was probably useless but I was attempting to clarify and add additional information but I didn't do a good job of that.

What I was attempting to say is that a radiator without any fan or shroud will be much more efficient in open air than one with a fan and shroud restricting some of the air flow through the radiator. But, yes, when you need the fan to kick on for additional airflow (because you may be not getting any air such as at a traffic light or slow speeds), the full shroud like what you have will definitely help with pulling the most air through the radiator and make the fan as efficient as possible. There is a trade off of having a fan and shroud versus not. And, yes, all cars are designed with it in mind that they may be stopped for extended periods or slow vehicle speeds, they will need the assistance of a fan and ducted shroud for the best cooling.

However, after operating our car for two years now in summer season, the supplied radiator and fan does a very ample job of keeping the engine temps in line. Only when running at the slower speeds and stopping does it need the assistance of the supplied fan to get the airflow. Nothing wrong with upgrading yours, you may have very different demands on your cooling system
 

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
Yep. I upgraded my fans right off the bat. Nothing really wrong with the DF fans, I just wanted some to really move some air. Spal fans fit that bill, very nicely.
 

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
I'm dealing with cooling issues with a 454cu in my '68 vette. It come from my dad with a radiator that lays down much like the of the DF car but it only has a 4-blade solid fan (no clutch). My dad tried to help the cooling by adding a chain-store 12" electric fan and does nothing but block the what little air it does get. I'm looking at getting this and ditching the mechanical fan.

$1300.00 for this bad boy.

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Tinkles

Well-Known Member
ctuinstra - making some ducting to force the air into the existing radiator is a cheaper option. It might not completely solve the issue, but it would not hurt.
 

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
ctuinstra - making some ducting to force the air into the existing radiator is a cheaper option. It might not completely solve the issue, but it would not hurt.
Is true. The biggest issue is the terribly under-sized mechanical fan for such a large c.u. engine. I could go with a six or more bladed fan but, like you, I want to draw as much air as possible through the radiator, since I tend to drive it around town and not on higher speed cruises. The slow stuff just starts heat soaking it and has a horrible time recovering from it. With a carb engine, the gas boils out of the bowls after I turn it off.

Sorry for hijacking your thread.
 

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
Old people and flex fans. You’ll never change their mind about them. :D And that new fangled fuel injection stuff is too complicated.
 
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