Tinkles Street Monster - No donor Extended City chassis

Tinkles

Tinkles

Well-Known Member
No word from the fab shop yet. Which is good in a way, money is getting tight again. Anyway I was doing chores outside today on a warm January day(almost 40*F) and decided to step in the garage and bolt the pedal box down. Didn't feel like getting into plumping it yet. Maybe tomorrow if I do not have anything else going on.
 
Tinkles

Tinkles

Well-Known Member
Now that it is finally getting warmer I have been picking away at a few things with the Goblin. I got the pedal box installed and plumbed. I decided to run the front brakes without an adjustable proportioning valve and see what happens. If it is too much brake pressure I will just swap to a different master cylinder.

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And the adjustable propositioning valve installed for the rear brakes.

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I know what I should be doing next with it, but I just need to find time. Between work and my bathroom remodel that turned into a rebuild(had to remove the WHOLE floor and a wall due to rot/water damage) my free time is very limited.
 
Dale E

Dale E

Well-Known Member
With your adjusting bar at the pedal you can set your balance front to rear pretty well without the proportioning valve. Also, you may find you need about a 2 psi residual valve in your rear brake line and maybe your front one too. This is du to your masters being lower than the calipers and yu may find a little bleed back of fluid from the higher caliper to the lower brake master.

Dale
 
Tinkles

Tinkles

Well-Known Member
The Goblin has taken a back seat this summer do to having to remodel the master bathroom in my house. Which do to water damage required us to replace a whole wall and most of the subfloor. So what started as one room turned into 3(master bath, laundry, and master bed). We finished the bath about a month ago and are on schedule to finish the laundry next weekend. Bedroom is just fresh paint, new doors and moldings. So all I really got done on the Goblin this summer was installing the floor and finally assembled my Quickjacks.

But good news is that I do have bit of cash to toss at the Goblin so I am trying to pick up all of the odds and ends that I have been putting off. I have a clutch setup figured out and on hand. I intend to make a post showing what I figured out, but haven't had the time. A cable driven LS3 throttle body and more Radium fuel system parts have arrived so far and I have been starting to collect AN hose fittings. I am hoping to get the hood fitted to my windshield soon and the engine/transmission finished and mated together over the winter once the construction supplies are put away. I am aiming to be able to finish collecting the rest of the parts I need in the next few months.
 
AMCAMX1969

AMCAMX1969

Active Member
Tinkles said:
So the Goblin has been on the back burner. I did bring it home almost 2 months ago. I did find a new job shortly after and am still there for the time being, but it is not covering my bills and is not going to work out. But I did just recently get hired with a new company and I can potentially make more than I ever had before if I am successful at it, but I have to take online classes to get licensed before I can officially start. I was never really a morning person at all, but it is amazing getting up at 5-6am after working from 6pm to 6am for almost 8 years

View attachment 15088

Here you can see a bunch of what was done. Windshield frame, side pods, new dash bar, harness bar, flat stock to mount the Kirkeys, and upsidedown steering column mount(will get fixed later on when they stop by to add mounting tabs for coolant/heat exchanger tanks and other misc stuff.



Close up of the top of the windshield frame. Still needs some massaging. It is flat stock welded onto a round tube and filled with weld on top to smooth it out. The mounting lip for the windshield is recessed 1/2" per recommendation of my local glass guy who will be doing the windshield. 1/4" for the glue and another 1/4" for the glass itself and hopefully it'll sit flush.




View attachment 15094

Extra square tubing in the floor again and flat stock to mount the Kirkeys to.
Click to expand...
What gage steel did you use for the plate to mount the pedal box? I'm thinking about using 14 gage.
 
Tinkles

Tinkles

Well-Known Member
A bunch of parts that have arrived.
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Vibrant AN line -12 pictured, I also picked up -8 and -6.
A whole assortment of -12, -8, -6 AN fittings from Redhorse.
92mm cable driven FI Tech LS3 throttle body. I've had the ITC Billet LS3 to LS4 TB adapter for a bit(LSJ and LS4 share the same TB bolt pattern).
ZZP shorty header. Not thrilled with it, but a cheap temporary option for now.
ZZP solid poly transmission bushings.
Radium Engineering E85 sensor "housing" and AFPR with built in pulse damper.
NOS Cheater solenoid, 90* nozzles, and an assortment of jets.
Motion Raceworks bolt on PCV system. I have been eyeing this for a bit and am not disappointed with it.
Lastly 36" long All Star performance "oil cooler". 3/4" NPT threads on each end. I tossed some 3/4" NPT to -12AN fittings in the ends and it should work well as a crossover pipe between both heat exchangers.

I just dropped off a LSJ fuel rail and fittings to be Cerakoted and hopefully I'll be picking up something from the fab shop in the next few weeks. I also picked up a portable heater for the garage and brought the engine into my basement so hopefully I can finally make a bunch of progress this winter once I get the house finished.
 
Tinkles

Tinkles

Well-Known Member
Well, long time, no update. The Goblin has kinda taken a back seat lately. After 2 redesigns I am finally happy with my fuel tank design and I have seen a picture of it actually being made. Once I get the tank I should be able to finally get the drivetrain installed. Which hopefully happens soon because I need my engine stand for another engine. I had been daily driving a 2010 Mitsubishi Lancer Ralliart Sportback since 2015 and back in March the timing chain guide broke and when I attempted to drive it onto a trailer to bring to the dealership, it dropped both intake valves on the #1 cylinder. Piston and head are destroyed. Block looks ok. I am going to rebuild it with forged rods/pistons, fresh head, good valvesprings, and a few fixes to take care of the few known issues in the 4B11T engines. Should end up around 500-550whp by next fall. I'll probably end up redoing the whole car over the next few year and fix all of the wear and tear daily driving put on it.
 
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Tinkles

Tinkles

Well-Known Member
Finally. 1st off, I do not know how much the tank holds. I can get comparison pictures with the stock tank in a few days, but it is 3" taller and I think ~3ish inches wider from side to side. The 2 main goals are to add capacity do to me wanting to run E85 and to fit a Radium Engineering FCST. 1st and 2nd designs were just measurements that I obviously messed up. 3rd time around I just built it out of cardboard and actually installed it to make sure everything fit.

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The FCST has one AEM 340 lift pump and 2 AEM 340 pumps in the 2.2L surge tank. It has EVERYTHING. Fuel fill, vent port, fuel level sensor, feed and return, and everything is already wired. I just have to swap the brackets that hold the lift pump and bolt it in.

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I'll probably paint it with Steel-it to kinda hide it and I haven't looked too much into longer straps to secure it. Once I put it in place I'll measure to see how long they need to be and then I'll figure something out. But this does remove my main excuse as to why I haven't been working on the Goblin.
 
Tinkles

Tinkles

Well-Known Member
Tank fits. It is a bit tricky to get in and out. Definately not possible with the engine/trans/subframe installed. The fuel fill will have to be moved again to basically the "OEM" location, but on driver side instead of the passenger side.
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Compared to the stock tank.

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I also calculated it's volume by filling some old gallon jugs with water and dumping them in. I confirmed that the stock tank is 9 gallons.

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I might be able to sneak another gallon into it, but I stopped here to allow room for the FCST. So I feel safe saying that 15 gallons is an accurate number.
 
ncgoblin

ncgoblin

Goblin Guru
Tinkles said:
Tank fits. It is a bit tricky to get in and out. Definately not possible with the engine/trans/subframe installed. The fuel fill will have to be moved again to basically the "OEM" location, but on driver side instead of the passenger side.
View attachment 34118

View attachment 34119

View attachment 34120

Compared to the stock tank.

View attachment 34121

View attachment 34122

I also calculated it's volume by filling some old gallon jugs with water and dumping them in. I confirmed that the stock tank is 9 gallons.

View attachment 34123

I might be able to sneak another gallon into it, but I stopped here to allow room for the FCST. So I feel safe saying that 15 gallons is an accurate number.
Click to expand...
From personal experience of about 110 miles on a tank with e85 it would be nice to have 15 gallons for a group ride.
 
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