V1 Anks329 - Extended City - '07 LS - #190 REGISTERED

[Anks329]

So continuing to tune the goblin, getting closer to being on point with MAF tuning, hopefully a few more runs and I should be there. I did manage to permanently disable the DTC and MIL lights for the evap system and the “missing” O2 sensor. So, now the MIL light will actually show up if there is a new real issue. Next, I wanna dive into the wiring diagrams and see if I can find a way to get rid of the seatbelt sigh, it just bothers me.

 

[Rttoys]

You can dive into wiring diagrams or just use electrical tape and be done with it.

Turning off the warning lights on the cluster

Warning lights on, makes my CDO go nuts, so I want to eliminate them. i was going to take it to my speedometer guy to remove the bulbs, but figured I’d give it a go first. My solution is pretty simple and cheap........free. All you need is a small screwdriver and electrical tape. with the...

dfkitcar.com

 

[Gtstorey]

The seat belt light is triggered by the low speed data to the instrument cluster so you any wiring changes would involve tricking the “inflatable restraint sensing and diagnostic module “ which is typically removed. This leaves modifications to the instrument cluster itself. At least for the newer models.

 

[Anks329]

Been having some great drives as the weather is warming up. I've got a nice idle tune setup and working on the rest of the MAF street tuning. It feels close to where I want it, hopefully can get it dialed in over this weekend as I go on some nice long drives on Saturday.

With the seat belt light, it looks like I can go with three options:

• electrical tape or cut the traces on the back of the panel itself - simply cover the light and I won't see it anymore
• Looking at the Seat Belt System Diagram the light is controlled via the low speed GM LAN data wires, and the logic is in the "Inflatable Restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module." This module is connected to both the driver and passenger side belt switches (and of course a ground). Unfortunately, the SDM is removed from the wiring harness and I no longer have it. It looks like I can buy a replacement module, but I can't seem to source the connector for it anywhere, and I would need a Tech2 or equivalent to reprogram computers so they all match.
• Back in the day, @Ross had a thread on hacking the low speed GM LAN wires, and @Yustas had found the frames to send in order to emulate the SRS Airbag module presence. From that thread, it looks like I purchased a canbus interface for a raspberry pi, now if I can find in the house after all this time, and it can connect up to the car, this might be an option to explore.

Easy solution is the electrical tape, but then I'll still know that something is wrong, and I'm just hiding it. So, I'll explore option 3 if I can find the canbus interface this weekend.

 

[Anks329]

It's been a great summer of driving the Goblin around! I've gone to several cars and coffees, and a couple of local car shows and the Goblin has been a hit every time. I'm nearing the end the driving season for this year as it starts getting rainy again in Seattle; I'm hoping I get a few more drives in over the weekends before it is too late. So as I wrap up, I'm coming up with a few items that I want to do this winter:

• Flip the rear toe bar. I realized I installed mine upside down, so will flip it over to match this.
• Flip and swap the lower front control arms to get more ride height per this.
• Replace the steering rods
• 3d printed cup holder
• I had originally set up my wideband for HP Tuners through a serial interface, I ended up using the AC Pressure sensor wiring instead, so need to clean up the old wiring
• Ignition key release, so I don't need to press the release when removing the key. Image here.
• Aftermarket shifter used in the AT Goblin from Smiley's Racing.
• Paint the wing supports so they don't look rusted
• Maybe paint the exhaust
• Redo the dash/gauge cluster
• Figure out a push to start setup

 

[Mahkoi]

It's been a great summer of driving the Goblin around! I've gone to several cars and coffees, and a couple of local car shows and the Goblin has been a hit every time. I'm nearing the end the driving season for this year as it starts getting rainy again in Seattle; I'm hoping I get a few more drives in over the weekends before it is too late. So as I wrap up, I'm coming up with a few items that I want to do this winter:

• Flip the rear toe bar. I realized I installed mine upside down, so will flip it over to match this.
• Flip and swap the lower front control arms to get more ride height per this.
• Replace the steering rods
• 3d printed cup holder
• I had originally set up my wideband for HP Tuners through a serial interface, I ended up using the AC Pressure sensor wiring instead, so need to clean up the old wiring
• Ignition key release, so I don't need to press the release when removing the key. Image here.
• Aftermarket shifter used in the AT Goblin from Smiley's Racing.
• Paint the wing supports so they don't look rusted
• Maybe paint the exhaust
• Redo the dash/gauge cluster
• Figure out a push to start setup

I just added the cupholder from one of the 3d print files on the forum. It's nice creature comfort addition to the goblin.

 

[Anks329]

I just added the cupholder from one of the 3d print files on the forum. It's nice creature comfort addition to the goblin.

Which one did you end up using?

 

[Mahkoi]

Which one did you end up using?

File is attached

 

[Rttoys]

One of those can holder hard koozies works well too

 

[Anks329]

Thanks for the suggestions on the cup holders! I've got a couple that I'm experimenting with. In the meantime, I got a set of stainless steel exhaust headers and bolted them on:

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Oooooo, pretty!