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V1 David's Track ,street goblin - in NJ

David
Ok got everything back together and no leak. So that was definitely the problem, but snice nothing is easy.

Now I have an issue with intercooler pump popping fuse when I plug it in. Also plugged in HP Tuners and not reading oil pressure. No low pressure light on the dash.

Have CEL for P0463 low fuel sensor A Circuit, snice im not using the factory fuel pump assembly. Also P0532 A/C Refrigerant pressure sensor A Circuit Low.

Can those error code effect oil pressure sensor?


What should be my next step?
20260428_140648.jpg
20260428_153221.jpg


Forgot to mention P0532 is disabled
 
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jirwin
SS guys can correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't believe these cars have oil pressure sensors. They just have a dummy switch.
 
jirwin
Oh so the sensor on the oil housing is just a dummy switch that turns on light if it drops to X PSI?

Yep, pretty much. Myself and a few other builders have put in oil pressure sensors with an external gauge. Some like, @Gtstorey (IIRC) made a T of sorts so that I could retain the switch and add the sensor. I just replaced mine since I'm not using the stock gauge cluster anyway.
 
David
Yep, pretty much. Myself and a few other builders have put in oil pressure sensors with an external gauge. Some like, @Gtstorey (IIRC) made a T of sorts so that I could retain the switch and add the sensor. I just replaced mine since I'm not using the stock gauge cluster anyway.
Excellent, i guess I don't have an electrical gremlin now.I just have to check the inner cooler pump to see why it's popping a fuse most likely.It's a bad pump.I will be doing the same thing as you.Eliminating the switch since I'll be using a digital cluster.So I'll put a regular pressure sensor in the same location.
 
jirwin
I thought you figured that out? You're not running the factory fuel pump assembly so I assume that includes the fuel level sensor that's on the factory fuel pump bucket?
 
David
I thought you figured that out? You're not running the factory fuel pump assembly so I assume that includes the fuel level sensor that's on the factory fuel pump bucket?
Correct but would it still show a high current code? Im using the factory relay to activate the aftermarket fuel pump relay. So I shouldn't be introducing high current to the factory relay or anything else.
 
G
Are you confusing fuel pressure circuit (which you probably don't have anyway) and/or a pump current/voltage circuit with a fuel level circuit? P0463 says fuel level, as in how much fuel is in the tank. Otherwise, relays shouldn't enter into it.
 
David
Are you confusing fuel pressure circuit (which you probably don't have anyway) and/or a pump current/voltage circuit with a fuel level circuit? P0463 says fuel level, as in how much fuel is in the tank. Otherwise, relays shouldn't enter into it.

Thank you Wow the little details that matter. Lol.

Now to the next issue which is the intercooler pump. I took the pump off and hard wired it to 12v. It works no problem, now I have to see why its popping the fuse.
 
David
I hate electric gremlins, its weird with this pump.

Put a new fuse again and tested power at the plug. One pin is + reads 12V and the other is the ground which confirmed with continuity and light. The minute I plug the pump the fuse pops. When I bench test it with with a 15amp fuse it runs with no problem.
 
G
Do you have anything that you can hook up to the pump plug that has a similar load? Or anyway of checking what amps the pump is pulling when on the bench? Maybe it’s close to the 15 amps and the fuse is a lyhogher than rated and your voltage is a little low pushing the amps up,

or there’s a short in the plug on the pump that contacts when in certain positions.

This is why a way to measure amps is very handy.
 
Desert Sasqwatch
Are you installing fast-blow fuses? A pump will momentarily jump up in current at start up, sometimes close to double the current, but will drop to nominal current very quickly once it's running. Try using a slow-blow 15 amp fuse in that location, before doing something drastic.
 
David
I would guess he’s using standard automotive fuses which I don’t know if they are slow or quick.

What pump are we talking about.

ZZP High Output

Are you installing fast-blow fuses? A pump will momentarily jump up in current at start up, sometimes close to double the current, but will drop to nominal current very quickly once it's running. Try using a slow-blow 15 amp fuse in that location, before doing something drastic.

Didn't know there was different fuses. Have the regular mini fuses.

Have to look into those slow-blow fuses.

Also just realized the pump might need be strong enough or there is an issue with flow. Going to take apart the return line and put it into a bucket and see the flow.
I wonder if the resistance of the W/A intercooler and the two radiators are causing a drop in flow. Would like to know if anyone has done my setup before.
 
G
Blocking flow on a centrifugal pump doesn’t increase the power required. At least not the ones that I deal with.

Does that pump have a power rating listed? Do you have anything else on the circuit? How did you decide that 15amps is the correct size?
 
David
Blocking flow on a centrifugal pump doesn’t increase the power required. At least not the ones that I deal with.

Does that pump have a power rating listed? Do you have anything else on the circuit? How did you decide that 15amps is the correct size?

Nothing else on that circuit that im aware of. Its using the factory fuse for the pump.

Flow : 35 liters per minute @ 12v/50w
Max Draw : 85w @ 14.4v - 38lpm
Max Continuous Volts : 14.4v
Max fluid temperature: 190*
3/4" inlet and outlet
 
G
So 85w at 12v is 7 amps so it doesn't seem like the fuse is undersized. I'm not sure how this can be anything but the pump motor having a dead short unless you have something going on with the wiring that is being moved while plugging the pump in. Not sure why it doesn't shoot on the bench. I would still hook up something up to the car that can load the circuit. An old fashion incandescent headlight bulb should be about 55-65 watts.

Here is a link to pump curves. In figure 1, you can see as head (resistance to flow) goes down, flow goes up and so does power consumption. As head goes up to maximum with zero flow with the line completely blocked (shut-off head) the power required is less. We actually have to upsize motors to account for a break at the discharge side of a pump which is the lowest head, highest flow, highest power required. Although I'm not sure where dry running a pump falls into this.
master-36-module-4-About-pump-curves.pdf
 
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