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V1 Desert Sasqwatch #155 Track (mods) - 08 SS/TC crate LNF F40
Rttoys
Smokin' Goblin
- Rttoys Smokin' Goblin
that’s what it’s like at goblinfest. 15-20 goblins together all looking them over, seeing and talking about everything we have done. Gets the ideas going. All are the same, but very different.There are a whole lot more builders I would love to have similar discussions with. We can learn so much from each other, way more when we can talk face to face than bouncing posts back and forth.
Tinkles
Well-Known Member
- Tinkles Well-Known Member
There are a whole lot more builders I would love to have similar discussions with. We can learn so much from each other, way more when we can talk face to face than bouncing posts back and forth.
I have been a part of a lot of evenings like that with my Keystone GM friends. Tossing out crazy ideas and then end up talking them out. Some get scrapped while others get pursued. We learn from one friend's failure or success. Never hoarding knowledge for ourselves. Good times.
Desert Sasqwatch
Bigfoot Goblin
- Desert Sasqwatch Bigfoot Goblin
Update: Been doing a bunch of small items to get brackets installed for some nice accessories that I want in my build. Wanted a bright FU light for those night time excursions that will project light from the LH ditch to the RH ditch.
I don't want to end up with my pretty 'grill' all messed up.
I don't want to repeat what @Ark :D did to his Bronco not seeing deer or other night critters before its too late.
I also wanted a 4 panel (wink) mirror to provide the best view of all those Mustangs, Hondas, and Miatas behind me.
Next I didn't like the way my fabbed up hinges turned out, not enough lift/height to clear the nose as I thought I was getting. Only getting 1/2 the lift on the hood I am looking for.
Soooo, back to the drawing board and working on the design of a higher lift double hinge that is about 3-4 inches taller before it kicks the hood forward for underhood clearance I'm looking for.
Will take some more refinement before committing to making them in aluminum to replace the existing.
Also working on the intercooler heat exchangers mountings. These are the KZ750(?) radiators that I purchased quite a while ago andhave been kicking around ideas of how to mount them to my esthetics. I decided horizontal mounting on the sides next to the fuel tank. Each one has an 8 inch fan and will have air scoops for adequate airflow.
More to come.
I don't want to end up with my pretty 'grill' all messed up.
I don't want to repeat what @Ark :D did to his Bronco not seeing deer or other night critters before its too late.
I also wanted a 4 panel (wink) mirror to provide the best view of all those Mustangs, Hondas, and Miatas behind me.
Next I didn't like the way my fabbed up hinges turned out, not enough lift/height to clear the nose as I thought I was getting. Only getting 1/2 the lift on the hood I am looking for.
Soooo, back to the drawing board and working on the design of a higher lift double hinge that is about 3-4 inches taller before it kicks the hood forward for underhood clearance I'm looking for.
Will take some more refinement before committing to making them in aluminum to replace the existing.
Also working on the intercooler heat exchangers mountings. These are the KZ750(?) radiators that I purchased quite a while ago andhave been kicking around ideas of how to mount them to my esthetics. I decided horizontal mounting on the sides next to the fuel tank. Each one has an 8 inch fan and will have air scoops for adequate airflow.
More to come.
ah.b.normal
Goblin Guru
- ah.b.normal Goblin Guru
I sure like that yard stick/paint stick aided design! Good stuff!Update: Been doing a bunch of small items to get brackets installed for some nice accessories that I want in my build. Wanted a bright FU light for those night time excursions that will project light from the LH ditch to the RH ditch.
View attachment 50271
View attachment 50274
I don't want to end up with my pretty 'grill' all messed up.
View attachment 50270
I don't want to repeat what @Ark :D did to his Bronco not seeing deer or other night critters before its too late.
I also wanted a 4 panel (wink) mirror to provide the best view of all those Mustangs, Hondas, and Miatas behind me.
View attachment 50272View attachment 50273
Next I didn't like the way my fabbed up hinges turned out, not enough lift/height to clear the nose as I thought I was getting. Only getting 1/2 the lift on the hood I am looking for.
View attachment 50276
Soooo, back to the drawing board and working on the design of a higher lift double hinge that is about 3-4 inches taller before it kicks the hood forward for underhood clearance I'm looking for.
View attachment 50277View attachment 50278
Will take some more refinement before committing to making them in aluminum to replace the existing.
Also working on the intercooler heat exchangers mountings. These are the KZ750(?) radiators that I purchased quite a while ago andhave been kicking around ideas of how to mount them to my esthetics. I decided horizontal mounting on the sides next to the fuel tank. Each one has an 8 inch fan and will have air scoops for adequate airflow.
View attachment 50279View attachment 50280
More to come.
- mike_sno Goblin Guru
Wow, quite the update! I would love to see the hinges! I don't really have to take the hood off anymore, but an easier solution would be great!
Is that a golf cart mirror? That's quite awesome. I have my mirror with dashcam. It's ok, but I would love to have a better view to the back. The outside mirrors are not optimal IMO.
Regarding the air scoops for the heat exchanger, don't expect to much. There is quite a bit of dirty air around the car. I wanna say you need to have like 4-5 in away from the car to get clean air. At least that is what my reliable measuring instrument (my hand in the wind while driving) is telling me.
SmsDetroit
Goblin Guru
- SmsDetroit Goblin Guru
Merry Christmas
Desert Sasqwatch
Bigfoot Goblin
- Desert Sasqwatch Bigfoot Goblin
Update:
I got the intercooler heat exchangers rigidly mounted with rear mount plates. These will help direct the HE exhaust air into the engine bay.
I've been working on floor and underside things since my frame is currently (mostly) bare again and upside down. I finally got to add finish welds on the bottom of several pieces I added previously that were impossible for a sqwatch to get at from above.
Started the installation of the front splitter which needed to be mounted as flat as possible with the floor pan and have a NACA duct opening cut into it for airflow into my axillary heat exchanger that will be mounted behind the radiator. To start with, the radiator frame rear mounts are 3/8 inch too high to achieve a flat plane and the mounting bolts add another 3/8 inch - this will not do. I drilled holes to allow the bolts to protrude thru the splitter and used a router to make cavities in the aluminum for the radiator frame mount plates to recess into. This allows the splitter to sit perfectly flat and in the same plane as the floor pan.
Next was cutting the NACA duct hole to align with the fiberglass NACA duct I made a while ago and the HE location as it's mounted to the frame. The opening had to be made slightly smaller than the fiberglass duct to create a 'catch lip' for airflow and the aluminum on the splitter at front edge had to be blended into a long radius. Everything fits as expected.
More...
I got the intercooler heat exchangers rigidly mounted with rear mount plates. These will help direct the HE exhaust air into the engine bay.
I've been working on floor and underside things since my frame is currently (mostly) bare again and upside down. I finally got to add finish welds on the bottom of several pieces I added previously that were impossible for a sqwatch to get at from above.
Started the installation of the front splitter which needed to be mounted as flat as possible with the floor pan and have a NACA duct opening cut into it for airflow into my axillary heat exchanger that will be mounted behind the radiator. To start with, the radiator frame rear mounts are 3/8 inch too high to achieve a flat plane and the mounting bolts add another 3/8 inch - this will not do. I drilled holes to allow the bolts to protrude thru the splitter and used a router to make cavities in the aluminum for the radiator frame mount plates to recess into. This allows the splitter to sit perfectly flat and in the same plane as the floor pan.
Next was cutting the NACA duct hole to align with the fiberglass NACA duct I made a while ago and the HE location as it's mounted to the frame. The opening had to be made slightly smaller than the fiberglass duct to create a 'catch lip' for airflow and the aluminum on the splitter at front edge had to be blended into a long radius. Everything fits as expected.
More...
Desert Sasqwatch
Bigfoot Goblin
- Desert Sasqwatch Bigfoot Goblin
Update continued:
The floor pan mount holes all got M5 rivnuts installed so it will be bolt on and readily removed if needed. Thinking about how thin the aluminum is and where anyone climbing in/out will put their feet, I decided a reinforcement plate should be installed in this location. I don't want to put my foot thru the floor and pull the floor pan out of its mounts. This steel plate is welded into my added X-bars and weigh less than 2 pounds for the pair.
Next up was getting the rear floor pan/diffuser fabbed up. A repurposed road sign fits this location perfectly and is made from thicker (and tempered) aluminum. This was cut to width and I've started crafting the diffuser with bends for strakes.
More strakes need to be fabbed up and riveted in place, and the diffuser lip needs to be cut and formed into the rear edge. I wanted to get all of this done while the frame is upside down, not a good idea to wait until later to have to crawl underneath my Goblin.
The floor pan mount holes all got M5 rivnuts installed so it will be bolt on and readily removed if needed. Thinking about how thin the aluminum is and where anyone climbing in/out will put their feet, I decided a reinforcement plate should be installed in this location. I don't want to put my foot thru the floor and pull the floor pan out of its mounts. This steel plate is welded into my added X-bars and weigh less than 2 pounds for the pair.
Next up was getting the rear floor pan/diffuser fabbed up. A repurposed road sign fits this location perfectly and is made from thicker (and tempered) aluminum. This was cut to width and I've started crafting the diffuser with bends for strakes.
More strakes need to be fabbed up and riveted in place, and the diffuser lip needs to be cut and formed into the rear edge. I wanted to get all of this done while the frame is upside down, not a good idea to wait until later to have to crawl underneath my Goblin.
Desert Sasqwatch
Bigfoot Goblin
- Desert Sasqwatch Bigfoot Goblin
An update on the progress with the diffuser:
After getting my repurposed road sign cut to size (50.5 inches front to back) and flush fitted to the rear edge of the DF aluminum floor, I made the first bends to form strakes on the rearmost outside edges (2.75 inches tall) - as seen in my previous post.
BTW, you can never have too many clamps!
I fabbed up forward strakes (also 2.75 inches tall) to extend the bend-formed stakes to the front edge of the diffuser. I also fabbed up shorter strakes that will be located under the Heat Exchanger side pods for directing airflow coming off the floor pan.
The split point between the strakes is where the bend for the diffuser airfoil begins. The airfoil is formed between the subframe rails, the limiting factor is the rear crossbar location. I initially thought I could get 3 inches maximum of 'throat' height - which is the primary determining factor for a diffuser effectiveness.
I had to fabricate mounts to secure the diffuser to the frame and subframe. The mounts are set to a specific height to keep the forward 1/2 flat and help form the airfoil shape for the rear 1/2.
So about 1/2 way back on the diffuser plate, about centerline with the bottom of the engine oil pan, I started the curve upward (which will be down in most if the photos - as my frame is upside down) using the diffuser mounts for the rigid locating points.
The rear 14 inches of the diffuser plate had to be cut just inboard of the rear subframe mount bolts (and the subframe side rails) to allow the curve to 'flow' to the rear lip.
More...
After getting my repurposed road sign cut to size (50.5 inches front to back) and flush fitted to the rear edge of the DF aluminum floor, I made the first bends to form strakes on the rearmost outside edges (2.75 inches tall) - as seen in my previous post.
BTW, you can never have too many clamps!
I fabbed up forward strakes (also 2.75 inches tall) to extend the bend-formed stakes to the front edge of the diffuser. I also fabbed up shorter strakes that will be located under the Heat Exchanger side pods for directing airflow coming off the floor pan.
The split point between the strakes is where the bend for the diffuser airfoil begins. The airfoil is formed between the subframe rails, the limiting factor is the rear crossbar location. I initially thought I could get 3 inches maximum of 'throat' height - which is the primary determining factor for a diffuser effectiveness.
I had to fabricate mounts to secure the diffuser to the frame and subframe. The mounts are set to a specific height to keep the forward 1/2 flat and help form the airfoil shape for the rear 1/2.
So about 1/2 way back on the diffuser plate, about centerline with the bottom of the engine oil pan, I started the curve upward (which will be down in most if the photos - as my frame is upside down) using the diffuser mounts for the rigid locating points.
The rear 14 inches of the diffuser plate had to be cut just inboard of the rear subframe mount bolts (and the subframe side rails) to allow the curve to 'flow' to the rear lip.
More...
Desert Sasqwatch
Bigfoot Goblin
- Desert Sasqwatch Bigfoot Goblin
The cut sides in the plate had to be filled in with gap fillers, so break out the CADboard! I had to fab up these aluminum gap fillers, but also get them attached for minimal disruption of airflow inside inside the diffuser tunnels and be rigid to not deform from air pressure or someone thinking to use it as a step. 
The 1 inch L brackets will be riveted in place - using more than are probably needed, but when have I ever done things to the minimum?
So with all of the tweaking and attempt to maximize the airfoil geometry the final measurements are the 3 inches I had planned for, but this is just the curve of the airfoil (which is double original measurements when I first started).
But the total throat depth came out to 5.5 inches at the rear of the flair.
Next up is to fab up the center strakes and rivet these in place - will be the same 2.75 inch tall size as the outside strakes. Additionally, the DF floor pan will also receive strakes to extend the diffuser forward under the floor - I'm claiming they are floor panel stiffners.
The 1 inch L brackets will be riveted in place - using more than are probably needed, but when have I ever done things to the minimum?
So with all of the tweaking and attempt to maximize the airfoil geometry the final measurements are the 3 inches I had planned for, but this is just the curve of the airfoil (which is double original measurements when I first started).
But the total throat depth came out to 5.5 inches at the rear of the flair.
Next up is to fab up the center strakes and rivet these in place - will be the same 2.75 inch tall size as the outside strakes. Additionally, the DF floor pan will also receive strakes to extend the diffuser forward under the floor - I'm claiming they are floor panel stiffners.
Desert Sasqwatch
Bigfoot Goblin
- Desert Sasqwatch Bigfoot Goblin
A little math: the front of the diffuser throat height (the strakes are 2.75 inches tall) with a 10.0 inch width has an area of 27.5 square inches. The exit of the diffuser throat is 5.5 inches tall with the same 10.0 inch width has an area of 55.5 square inches - or exactly double the area. Note: there are 3 sections 10 inches wide in my diffuser design. In a perfect (and enclosed) rectangular section, based on Bernoulli's therom, the air expansion at the exit pulls/forces the entry air to speed up to fill this lower air pressure, increasing the airflow speed and creating a vacuum equal to 1/2 atmospheric pressure - in theory and in perfect conditions.
My diffuser is not perfect conditions and is only bounded on 3 sides, being approximately 4.5 inches above ground level. Having this extra available air (4.5 X 10.0 = 45.0 square inches) at the diffuser entry throat, and allowing for an 80% mixing factor with the airflow in the throat section, the air will only accelerate an overall 10%. So the diffuser should be able to produce approximately 1.42 inches of vacuum (which is just slightly less than sucking in your cheeks to pull a liquid up a soda straw). This force is spread over the width of the diffuser (30 inches) and about a 10 inch long section of the diffuser where the highest airflow occurs, typically at the beginning of the curve in the airfoil section, giving a 300 square inch surface for this vacuum to act upon. Note there is vacuum behind this location all the way to the diffuser exit (21 inches rearward), but at a logarithmically lower vacuum pressure the further rearward in the throat section.
All this leads to a (conservative) calculated 400 square inches total at the stated vacuum (400 x1.42= 568 in.lbs: divide by 12 to get ft.lbs) of 33.3 ft.lbs of downforce, based on the design of my diffuser. Thank you Daniel Bernoulli.
My diffuser is not perfect conditions and is only bounded on 3 sides, being approximately 4.5 inches above ground level. Having this extra available air (4.5 X 10.0 = 45.0 square inches) at the diffuser entry throat, and allowing for an 80% mixing factor with the airflow in the throat section, the air will only accelerate an overall 10%. So the diffuser should be able to produce approximately 1.42 inches of vacuum (which is just slightly less than sucking in your cheeks to pull a liquid up a soda straw). This force is spread over the width of the diffuser (30 inches) and about a 10 inch long section of the diffuser where the highest airflow occurs, typically at the beginning of the curve in the airfoil section, giving a 300 square inch surface for this vacuum to act upon. Note there is vacuum behind this location all the way to the diffuser exit (21 inches rearward), but at a logarithmically lower vacuum pressure the further rearward in the throat section.
All this leads to a (conservative) calculated 400 square inches total at the stated vacuum (400 x1.42= 568 in.lbs: divide by 12 to get ft.lbs) of 33.3 ft.lbs of downforce, based on the design of my diffuser. Thank you Daniel Bernoulli.
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Goblinfanclub1234
Well-Known Member
- Goblinfanclub1234 Well-Known Member
when is the frame going to powdercoat?
comegetjoe
Goblin Guru
- comegetjoe Goblin Guru
Thats funny!!
Desert Sasqwatch
Bigfoot Goblin
- Desert Sasqwatch Bigfoot Goblin
The serious answer is it won't be powder coated - I'm planning to 2k paint it, but only after I get everything modified, fabricated, and welded to it. Several more brackets and tab mounts to go, just need to get the exact locations figured out. @comegetjoe knows how long I've been working on just my frame and he and I have been sharing the challenge of the F40 transmission. Someday I will have it completed...Someday.
