V1 DIY Front End Alignment

[David]

Also, move the gauge to the center of the hub.
View attachment 57436
[/QUOTE

Same 4.4

 

[David]

I’m sure there’s some sort of error in both the turn method and the DF method. My angle gauge doesn’t fit on the bolts where they measure from but getting it to sit perfectly in line with the car and vertically on just the bolts seems like it could be inconsistent. As for the 3d printed mounts make sure your wheel adapters are pushed in all the way when you take the measurement. Mine were slightly loose and I’d have to push them in against the wheel to get consistent readings

I made new adapter that bolt on to the center cap on the wheels. I wanted to eliminate that play also.

 

[David]

@Rttoys if i use your method 20⁰ and zeroing I get 4.4⁰. If i use the 20⁰ method and the equation I get 6.15⁰. Shouldn't it be the same?

 

[Keckster]

@Rttoys if i use your method 20⁰ and zeroing I get 4.4⁰. If i use the 20⁰ method and the equation I get 6.15⁰. Shouldn't it be the same?

You are supposed to multiply it by the 1.43

 

[David]

You are supposed to multiply it by the 1.43

That makes more sense so the 20⁰ is accurate both ways.
Now im assuming Ill use the 20⁰ method and give it a +8⁰ to +9⁰ caster

 

[Rttoys]

i was in the hangar so I did it both ways real quick. I actually haven’t touched caster in a long time, much less used 20° method.

Note*- not making sure things are precisely level, didn’t go off my marks on the ground for more accurate 20°. One turn of the wheel is real close to 20°.mostly just a quick comparison.

Got 7.9 on the hub and 5.1 x 1.5=7.65 (5.1 x 1.43=7.293).
So both methods are close.

 

[David]

i was in the hangar so I did it both ways real quick. I actually haven’t touched caster in a long time, much less used 20° method.

Note*- not making sure things are precisely level, didn’t go off my marks on the ground for more accurate 20°. One turn of the wheel is real close to 20°.mostly just a quick comparison.

Got 7.9 on the hub and 5.1 x 1.5=7.65 (5.1 x 1.43=7.293).
So both methods are close.

View attachment 57439View attachment 57440View attachment 57441

Got it, not sure if I'm doing something wrong or if something is off. Im doing the 20⁰ method and I have the FL at +8.15⁰ and the hub is reading 9.7 with me zeroing at the tunnel. If i zero on my platform I read 8.6.

Also how close do I have to get the caster to each other? I have the FL at 8.15 and the FR at 7.58. If i try and do a half turn it gives me more then I need.

 

[Rttoys]

Numbers need to be the other way around. About .5° lower caster to the dr side works well. Higher camber and lower caster to the left will make it drive straight dealing with road crown.

Roughly
.2 to .5 higher left camber
and
.3 to .8 lower left caster

you’ll have to play with this, but it’s a pretty basic rule of thumb.

 

[Rttoys]

Got it, not sure if I'm doing something wrong or if something is off. Im doing the 20⁰ method and I have the FL at +8.15⁰ and the hub is reading 9.7 with me zeroing at the tunnel. If i zero on my platform I read 8.6.

since we are not using high $$$ alignment machines, whatever method you use, that’s what you stick with And why some of our numbers are different than others. You get it in the right area, then you play from there. “your number“ might feel best at (let’s say) 8°, then match accordingly. This is also why “mine feels fine at xxx” , but someone else is at a different number

hope that makes sense.

 

[David]

since we are not using high $$$ alignment machines, whatever method you use, that’s what you stick with And why some of our numbers are different than others. You get it in the right area, then you play from there. “your number“ might feel best at (let’s say) 8°, then match accordingly. This is also why “mine feels fine at xxx” , but someone else is at a different number

hope that makes sense.

Thank you for your help.

 

[David]

Numbers need to be the other way around. About .5° lower caster to the dr side works well. Higher camber and lower caster to the left will make it drive straight dealing with road crown.

Roughly
.2 to .5 higher left camber
and
.3 to .8 lower left caster

you’ll have to play with this, but it’s a pretty basic rule of thumb.

I was trying to leave it even as road crown on track and AutoX I believe wouldn't help. I guess now no option

 

[Rttoys]

You can try even and see if it drives straight. It might. On the other hand, a few tenths of a degree isn’t going to mess up autocross.

 

[David]

Ok let me know if I screwed up or if its a good starting point.
Caster LF 8.01
RF 8.15

Front Camber FL -.7
FR -.6

Front Toe. FL 3 mm toe in
FR 3 mm toe in

Rear Toe. RR 4 mm toe in
RL 4.5 mm toe in

Rear Camber RL -.9
RR -1.1

Alignment was done with 235 lb in drivers seat.

Also my corner balancing

 

[Rttoys]

Looks good, other than toe. You’ll want 3 to 4.5mm (1/8”- 3/16”) total toe in. Not 3mm per side. You are at 6mm total toe ( 1/4”j, which is a bit high. Probably max I would go with.

 

[David]

Looks good, other than toe. You’ll want 3 to 4.5mm (1/8”- 3/16”) total toe in. Not 3mm per side. You are at 6mm total toe ( 1/4”j, which is a bit high. Probably max I would go with.

**** I thought all specs given was per side. Ill set up the DIY alignment rack again lol

 

[Rttoys]

I thought about that when I was reading your specs. Sorry. “Total toe”

 

[David]

I thought about that when I was reading your specs. Sorry. “Total toe”

No worries at all, no reason to be sorry. I appreciate all the help. Going now for a test drive.

 

[David]

Ok so went on a quick test drive and its slightly better. I made it to 60 but from 50 up, its all over the place and worse when you let go of the accelerator. Not sure what is my next step is. Current specs with 18PSI

 

[David]

Well I might have found part of the issue. No wonder when I was doing the rear toe it was given me mixed numbers. Everytime I worked the suspension to settle everything.

Going out for another test drive then will have check the alignment specs again.
Moral of the story check for play before starting to align.

 

[Robinjo]

Yeah, that part isn't supposed to be like Mercedes Dynamic Driving on the F1 car a few years back.