V1 Eric's Track Goblin - 06 SS/SC donor

[Traé]

If it’s coolant, the laminova cores could be leaking.
ZZP sells O-rings for them.

LSJ Laminova Upgrade Orings

This kit comes with (8) O-rings, enough to replace all of them in an LSJ intake. We recommend greasing them before install to make it easier to slide them in without damaging them.

zzperformance.com

I remember reading awhile back about another member, I think @Rauq, having coolant in his intake manifold and this was the cause.

 

[Rauq]

Nope, although I did put the entire manifold in a utility sink and filled the laminova cores with water to check for leaks.

I'm not sure laminova cores can leak like that in any case, being inside the intake manifold and located lower than the top of the manifold. I can see where the wet zone stops on the intake manifold, how high up does it start? I don't think coolant typically looks like it stays wet anyway. Not sure if PCV mess or valve cover are the next most likely options.

 

[Esstover]

So I pulled the supercharger and it just appears to be a boost leaks between the intake and the supercharger. I had a clear oil residue where it had leaked. This also probably explains why I’m only seeing 4psi on my boost gauge. I tried to clean it and re-seat it. I was told the torque spec was only 18 ft/lb. I ran it after re-seating and still only got 4psi. Any suggestions on sealing it? I replaced the original seal during the build. I was considering removing the seal and using RTV.

 

[Ross]

With your Goblin parked, and engine off, replace the air filter with the exhaust hose from a clean shop vacuum.
Use the vacuum to pressurize the intake, and spray soapy water over the intake until you find all the leaks.
Or you could use a smoke machine, but you should remove the MAF sensor so it doesn't get smoke on it.

 

[Esstover]

With your Goblin parked, and engine off, replace the air filter with the exhaust hose from a clean shop vacuum.
Use the vacuum to pressurize the intake, and spray soapy water over the intake until you find all the leaks.
Or you could use a smoke machine, but you should remove the MAF sensor so it doesn't get smoke on it.

Gave this a try tonight. I could only get about 2psi of pressure with my shop vac setup. I’ve been seeing around 4psi when driving so I think I need to make more than that to find my leaks. Any other thoughts before I try the permatex?

 

[Rttoys]

Can you put a straight edge on the charger and intake to see which one is possibly warpped?

 

[Ross]

Last ditch effort: Have a crazy friend kneel backwards in passenger seat, with a misting bottle of soapy water, spraying the intake, while you drive at full boost. A dyno would be safer to do this. Have a GoPro camera on the underside of the intake, and anywhere else it might help. See if you can make bubbles. PS, this is not my best idea, but up to you if you can do it safely. Russell's idea of checking for flatness sounds safer. Probably is. Probably.

 

[Rauq]

I wanted to guess the boost bypass valve was opening when it shouldn't be before guessing the supercharger/manifold mating surfaces were warped, but that doesn't really explain the oil on the manifold. I'd think a smoke test would tell you if it's really warped mating surfaces.

 

[Robinjo]

I wanted to guess the boost bypass valve was opening when it shouldn't be before guessing the supercharger/manifold mating surfaces were warped, but that doesn't really explain the oil on the manifold. I'd think a smoke test would tell you if it's really warped mating surfaces.

Is the vent on the valve cover hooked up to the intake arm still? That would explain the oil. It could also be from when this was a Cobalt and the vent was hooked up properly. I just took apart a blower that Rttoys lent me and it had buildup in it.

 

[Esstover]

Is the vent on the valve cover hooked up to the intake arm still? That would explain the oil. It could also be from when this was a Cobalt and the vent was hooked up properly. I just took apart a blower that Rttoys lent me and it had buildup in it.

Tell me more…. I’ve had my car assembled for a while so I don’t recall exactly but yes I believe the vent is still going from the valve cover to the intake. Is it not suppose to be? I’m sure that is how it has oil particles making it to the intake that is leaking at the supercharger. I plain to have this all apart this winter when I do the dual pass end plate upgrade on the intake. Do I need to change anything? Should I do any maintenance on the supercharger?

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Did you mount the oneway check valve into this hose from the valve cover to the intake hose? It allows air into the engine to reduce vacuum, but more importantly prevents pressurized crankcase air (which contains oil mist) from blowing into the intake tube. Oneway check valves are cheap insurance, buy a new one if the old one is not working or you misplaced it and not installed.

 

[Rauq]

Did you mount the oneway check valve into this hose from the valve cover to the intake hose? It allows air into the engine to reduce vacuum, but more importantly prevents pressurized crankcase air (which contains oil mist) from blowing into the intake tube. Oneway check valves are cheap insurance, buy a new one if the old one is not working or you misplaced it and not installed.

Not how the LSJ PCV works. With boost, crankcase gasses are pulled into the intake tract from the valve cover breather. PCV valve is closed. In vacuum, filtered air from the intact tube enters the crankcase from the valve cover breather and then pulled into the intake manifold through the open PCV valve. If there's that much oil in the intake, that's more of a blow by issue than a PCV issue.

 

[Traé]

Not how the LSJ PCV works. With boost, crankcase gasses are pulled into the intake tract from the valve cover breather. PCV valve is closed. In vacuum, filtered air from the intact tube enters the crankcase from the valve cover breather and then pulled into the intake manifold through the open PCV valve. If there's that much oil in the intake, that's more of a blow by issue than a PCV issue.

I was thinking about how this worked on my way home from work today so it’s funny this is the first thing I see when I log on.
I need to get a hose to connect the vent to the intake. I have seen others put filters right on the port in the valve cover. Are there any pros or cons to each setup?

 

[Rauq]

I have a filter on the valve cover breather. It's fine until a track day, then I get a little bit of oil mist on the frame of the car in that general area. I originally set it up that way when I was SC only with the intake on the opposite corner of the engine. Now that I'm making more power and have the turbo intake right there, I'll probably run a line from the valve cover breather into the intake tube. I don't think I'm making enough blow by that gunking up the intake/turbo/intercoolers are an issue (which would necessitate the install of a catch can) but we'll see.

You shouldn't run that breather open because when the manifold is in vacuum the PCV system is actively pulling fresh air into that port. Theoretically you should tie it into the intake tube post-MAF so the computer can calculate how much airmass is entering the engine through the throttle body + PCV combined, but the valve cover breather is orificed to limit airflow which makes up a small enough airmass that it's typically negligible, especially if you've tuned. for the setup.

That being said, my breather is not pulling in metered air now nor will it be when I tie it into the intake either, because my MAF is after the turbo/A2A/BOV.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Not how the LSJ PCV works. With boost, crankcase gasses are pulled into the intake tract from the valve cover breather. PCV valve is closed. In vacuum, filtered air from the intact tube enters the crankcase from the valve cover breather and then pulled into the intake manifold through the open PCV valve. If there's that much oil in the intake, that's more of a blow by issue than a PCV issue.

Wasn't talking about the PCV valve, was talking about the connection between the valve cover and the intake air tube (your explanation as the intake breather), not the PVC to the intake manifold. But I guess you're the expert on everything so I'll just have to see if you can figure this one out.

 

[Rauq]

But I guess you're the expert on everything so I'll just have to see if you can figure this one out.

lmao

Wasn't talking about the PCV valve, was talking about the connection between the valve cover and the intake air tube (your explanation as the intake breather), not the PVC to the intake manifold.

I just wouldn't advocate for the installation of a check valve in an application or configuration that's not factory and is likely to cause problems. If you put a check valve here, crankcase pressure has no place to go when the engine's making boost.

The LNF has two valve cover breathers, right? One with a check valve to (theoretically) minimize oil vapors and deposits somewhere on the intake side of the motor... so I get that there's a difference in configurations, but then again I haven't advised anyone on LNF PCV setups.

 

[Esstover]

Updates and looking for advice....

Got in my new set of wheels and tires for Autocross - Hoosier A7 275/35-15 on some cheap steely 15x10 wheels. Excited to give these a try this spring.

I ordered the ZZP dual pass kit. I didn't get the option B. Anybody on here do the kit without Option B? I also didn't order any new o-rings for the lamacores so I'm hoping mine are good, or i'll have to order some once i get it apart. Will the hoses that come with the kit work for the goblin or will I need to go get some hose? I also go some new spark plugs and plan to do an oil change while i'm in there.

Time for the question. My plan was to go 80# injectors and E85. Am I going to be able to do that with the little heat exchange that came with my goblin kit? Will I have issues with IAT2 temps? Anyone else with this basic LSJ supercharged setup on E85? no cooling upgrades other than a new pump and the dual pass kit.

Hope everyone had a Merry Christmas.

 

[Rttoys]

You will need a lot more intercooling. I know I do and I’m not running e85

 

[mike_sno]

Updates and looking for advice....

Got in my new set of wheels and tires for Autocross - Hoosier A7 275/35-15 on some cheap steely 15x10 wheels. Excited to give these a try this spring.

I ordered the ZZP dual pass kit. I didn't get the option B. Anybody on here do the kit without Option B? I also didn't order any new o-rings for the lamacores so I'm hoping mine are good, or i'll have to order some once i get it apart. Will the hoses that come with the kit work for the goblin or will I need to go get some hose? I also go some new spark plugs and plan to do an oil change while i'm in there.

Time for the question. My plan was to go 80# injectors and E85. Am I going to be able to do that with the little heat exchange that came with my goblin kit? Will I have issues with IAT2 temps? Anyone else with this basic LSJ supercharged setup on E85? no cooling upgrades other than a new pump and the dual pass kit.

Hope everyone had a Merry Christmas.

Haven't read the full blog. Have you done a log? What is your IAT2 Temperature? I have a pretty small pulley. Not sure how and where to measure the diameter. I have the dual pass kit, and an external heat exchanger and run E85. Currently I don't see any knock. But I am not sure how good my tune is in regards to max HP.

 

[Esstover]

Haven't read the full blog. Have you done a log? What is your IAT2 Temperature? I have a pretty small pulley. Not sure how and where to measure the diameter. I have the dual pass kit, and an external heat exchanger and run E85. Currently I don't see any knock. But I am not sure how good my tune is in regards to max HP.

No log. Haven’t invested in HPTuners yet. My plan was to stay stock pulley.