• We've upgraded and reskinned the forum. Notice something off? Email us at [email protected] and we'll fix it.

V1 JCas Tacoma Wa city easy entry 07 LS #188 "REGISTERED"

Jcas
Boy I may get a ride in a Goblin by the end of a week end as long as I didn't mess up the wiring harness
 

Attachments

  • 20200422_203557.jpg
    20200422_203557.jpg
    421.4 KB · Views: 477
Jcas
Might want to change that timing tensioner
I am in high Hope's that it will last another 5000 or so miles as I want to do some tranny mods and up grade clutch and do the timing set next winter. I found out tonight just how easy it will be to remove the engine compared to the donor.

While on that topic I would love to say HATS off to Lonny and Adam every one of the steel lines went right into place no bending nothing. Clutch line looked as if it was out in the middle of nowhere but when I rolled the engine in the line almost ran itself into the clutch slave. The vids on the wiring are good as well so far if I would have followed to the letter would have been spot on. I just added a few inches to make sure I would not be short now I have extra LOL. Engine bolted straight in. My wife gave me a hand putting the engine in and could not believe how easy it went in. With in a few minutes we was standing there admiring how nice it looked and I was making varoom sounds. So I will say a top notch kit
 
Ark :D
I mean, if that tensioner goes, you could end up with an engine like my first donor's, with rockers blown all over the place, damaged cams and all that good stuff. For how easy it is to change it, you should just do it.
 
Anks329
Wow, impressive progress! I’m still staring in my frame with nothing going on, my paint order got delayed because of Amazon. It should finally arrive tomorrow
 
Desert Sasqwatch
Changing the tension bolt is easy and takes all of ten minutes, best $20 insurance for your engine. There are too many horror stories on this forum that can be traced back to a failed tension bolt.
 
Jcas
Changing the tension bolt is easy and takes all of ten minutes, best $20 insurance for your engine. There are too many horror stories on this forum that can be traced back to a failed tension bolt.
Ok this tension bolt how much tear down do we have to do. I know that big rusty nut is what gets replaced in this process. Why I am asking is what I am used to (not Cobalt the older Datsun and such) requires complete removal of timing cover and valve cover and oil pan to do any tensioner work. Is that the case here?
 
Ross
From memory (so I might be missing steps):
Remove the cover in the center of the valve cover (the spark plug valley).
Remove the coils from all spark plugs.
Take off the valve cover.
Zip tie the chain to each cam gear, so it can't skip a tooth.
Remove the old chain tensioner
Install the new chain tensioner
use a paint stick, and bump the back of the chain where it touches the tensioner, to activate the tensioner.
re-assemble.

You should also do the Dorman bolt fix on the side cover.
Start reading here, and go down a few posts.

If you make the mistake I did (the chain jumped because I didn't zip tie it to the gears)
then you end up taking the engine mount off the right side of the engine and frame,
removing the pulley tensioner
removing the side chain covers
repositioning the chain on the crankshaft and both gears
then putting it all back together.
 
Last edited:
Jcas
What coating did you use for your floor / firewall? Looks like you rolled it?
I used a dupli color roll on bed liner. Still not sure I like it but should not be slick floor considering I live in the dry part of the state with all our liquid sunshine lol
 
Jcas
Well if all goes well I might get the first test drive tomorrow. Then spend the week tiding up things. It's nice if you can have most of the donor parts prepped. It goes together nice.
 

Attachments

  • 20200425_195313.jpg
    20200425_195313.jpg
    559.2 KB · Views: 491
  • 20200425_195227.jpg
    20200425_195227.jpg
    609.7 KB · Views: 497
  • 20200425_195303.jpg
    20200425_195303.jpg
    607 KB · Views: 501
  • 20200425_195313.jpg
    20200425_195313.jpg
    559.2 KB · Views: 491
Jcas
Just have a few more things. If it dont happen tomorrow I know I will by next weekend.
 
Last edited:
Jcas
Anybody have a idea one what brake hose to use on the soltice brake caliper? Donors will not fit and the hoses supplied are for the front
 
Ross
I was able to use Cobalt hoses on my Solstice brake calipers. I think they were from the rear of the Cobalt, but I am not certain... but I know I didn't buy new ones. I did have to grind the brass block at the end to mount it at a different 90 degree angle than it was originally designed for.
 
Jcas
I was able to use Cobalt hoses on my Solstice brake calipers. I think they were from the rear of the Cobalt, but I am not certain... but I know I didn't buy new ones. I did have to grind the brass block at the end to mount it at a different 90 degree angle than it was originally designed for.
I will go look at it again with that in mind just it looked a bit short but maybe if I change the angle and get it to fit all we have to worry about is the furthest that the suspension extends.
 
Jcas
Ross if it was not for this covid thing I would give you the biggest hug a Washingtonian could give. I ment to take a photo of the finished hose but got to excited. I fitted hose to guessed location and took a corner off and there you have it a hose that is fit for a Goblin. Thank you again.
 
Back
Top