• We've upgraded and reskinned the forum. Notice something off? Email us at [email protected] and we'll fix it.

V1 Joe's 2009 F40 SS/TC #470

comegetjoe
From my discussion points made a while back about the shifter for the F40, the key point is the side-to-side cable movement needs the cable to move forward when pulling the lever to the left (toward your knee) to get the correct R, 1-2, 3-4, 5-6 H pattern. The DF shifter set up in your photo moves the side-to-side cable rearward with the up/down pivot on the RH side. If the shifter assembly mounting was turned around 180 degrees with the up/down pivot on the LH side of the shifter assy the side-to-side cable motion would be correct.


My point wasn't to derail back to a discussion we've already had, it was to point out that with this shifter, it is **** near impossible to find 1st without first locating R, backing out of reverse and then easing towards center nuetral juuuuuusst enough to fall out and then go up to first. I need to fab up a stop that I can bolt to something that already exists there to act as a stop. I was talking with the Andrew James, destroyer of all that is cobalts, and he said the F40 shifter is basically a big-er spring that keeps you out of the reverse area until you're positive that you want to go there by pushing even further with more force. The F40 doesnt stop you from going into reverse even at forward motion.
 
comegetjoe
Whelp.
20250725_095428.jpg
 
Last edited:
comegetjoe
It’s the hose in the frame and not the clamp?

*sigh, no. Its at the frame. I jacked the frame up one corner at a time for the first time since I got the new subframe and the jackstand shifted or car rolled forward or something and the jackstand was resting on the hose at the frame.

Im just bent on a low from a huge high the other day.
 
comegetjoe
The return isnt the shifter or trans. Its the cable. So either its a bum cable or the routing is causing it to bind up.
Trans and cable = trans stays in left or right nuetral
Shifter and cable = shifter stays in left or right nuetral
Both without cable act totally normal.
 
Ross
1" ID Red Line radiator hose. Or any 1" ID coolant hose, DF uses Red Line, but any brand will work.
 
jirwin
Just spitballing, but if you're intending to do a new hose, maybe a vacuum pump could collapse the hose and make it easier to remove? If not it would at least provide room for some sort of lubricant.
 
Desert Sasqwatch
We have all been there and done that more times than we will admit! Keep the faith, breathe deep, count to ten, and make the correction - knowing it will likely never happen again...at least not on purpose. :p
 
comegetjoe
20250726_132421.jpg


I was not concerned about the rust on the hose

Rip on the ebrake, shift to reverse (the only gear i really know besides 5th) and beginning pulling. I had to double my rope to get the pulling strength up as the tensile in one string wasn't enough. Wrapped around the hose behind the metal coupler, hose clamp attached. Tightened the rope around the hose, couple zip ties so the rope stayed. Tied it to the Summits receiver and eased into the throttle gently until I saw it was moving, once I saw it was moving I just kept going and then THUD, the hose hit the ground flat.

In was more difficult. We tried 4 variations of drilled holes in the hose and 3x the hole ripped and shot out the rop from the front. 4th time Scott said to leave it untied and just zip tie it (I had my doubts, but if he was right and it worked so be it)... it didnt work and the rope just slid right out. The last time we really cut a groove in the new hose, two holes, double knotted it and then 4 zipties and I said to Scott that the key is to not stop, so cup your hands full of dish soap and get this thing lubed up cause this is the last try for the day. I leaned over my back seat to see the action as I drove forward and whoosh, it came right through without a hiccup.

-dawn dishsoap and be very liberal
-constant pressure forward, the starting and stopping gives time for the hose to recoil and shrink back down from a thinner stretched shape
-buy a v8 jeep summit
-harbor freight coolant hose pinch clamps are working great and still in position.


Tags - replacing frame hose replace coolant hose in frame lower
 

Attachments

  • 20250726_132421.jpg
    20250726_132421.jpg
    493.9 KB · Views: 129
comegetjoe
Good work. Just a thought. Would the group buy shift maybe solve your problem. It has the reversers in it so maybe would straight out the shift pattern?

Possibly. I just looked at Mike Sno's old for sale post and saw what they looked like for the first time. I feel like I would eventually break the reversers or something in that mechanism.
How is the travel left to right? Is there enough for one more gear?
I wonder if I would need longer cables. I feel like the F40 shifter atop the trans sits higher and that takes up some length.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top