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V1 Joe's 2009 F40 SS/TC #470

Desert Sasqwatch
Putting a slight bend/arc in the bracket and laying it back a few degrees by bending the mounting tabs may follow the hood contour better. Plus the angle on the windshield looks way better than it does standing straight up.
 
comegetjoe
Putting a slight bend/arc in the bracket and laying it back a few degrees by bending the mounting tabs may follow the hood contour better. Plus the angle on the windshield looks way better than it does standing straight up.

Nope. I tried the belly-bending method, and you're not going to be able to bend happen. The metals strong side like whay needs to happen.
 
Desert Sasqwatch
Got my frame to bend quite easily by hand with judicious hand force on the edge of my workbench. Used the vice to get the angles of the mounting tabs correct with gentle persuasion from a rubber mallet. My windshield is laid back to the same angle as the A-pillars on the frame and the plexiglass has about a 3 inch bow/curve in it. The bottom of the frame did require a little contour grinding toward the ends and the mounting holes in the hood had to be relocated about 1/2 inch in the middle and on the ends.

An alternativis for the poor fit to the hood could be a grinder to remove some material to fit the contour.
 
G
Have you tried fitting the WS frame to the hood when it is not on the car? It might fit and then some have adjusted how the frame attaches to the dash bar.
 
Joebob
How old is the hood and how was it stored? Fiberglass can relax out of shape if stored stressed like upside down. Look at the FF5 cobra kits and task 1 is to make a body buck to help keep its shape. With that. Is the hood installed and mounted? It might be a combo move of making the hood fit in the right position to receive the windshield frame AND some tweaking of the frame arc AND tab bending to make the fit.

I have also bent my tabs to lean the windshield back and also redrilled the outermost holes about 1/2-3/4" farther forward to reduce the arc. I did not have to recontour the bottom part of the frame but did have to recontour the pexiglass bottom to fit the closer position to the hood.

The frame will not just drop down on the hood in perfect harmony. It will be hand tensioned to align with the holes and this tension will arc the glass and add rigidity to the assembly to reduce movement under wind force.

Good luck but have patience.

Joe
 
Desert Sasqwatch
Kinda looks like this now? :D
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pisco
I have not, but I will try tomorrow.


^^That's what I did
I mounted the windshield on a tabletop then carried the whole thing to the car and forced it into place
It did take quite a bit of force both for the windshield to hood and hood to car.
I just got all the bolts started then tightened a bit at a time to distribute the force as the pieces came together...
 
comegetjoe
Ive not seen anything on how to mount the windshield, but you guys were right. I had to enlarge one hole, put the hood on the ground and the holes lined up for the bracket onto the hood. The windshield itself matched up spot on.

Got the new wheels on. World of traction difference between the Cooper street tires on the SS wheels and the r888r on the Cosmis wheels.

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Is the swaying after a high load into decel normal for a goblin? Its like its settling down from being out of sorts.
 
L
I had this problem as well. I ended up putting a slight bend in the metal bracket, then loosely bolting in one end and making my way across. the last hole was still too far off so I had to wallow it out a bit with a dremel. The out-of-round hole is still small enough to be hidden by the metal. Making each of the 7(?) holes in the fiberglass slightly larger helps too.
 
G
Ive not seen anything on how to mount the windshield, but you guys were right. I had to enlarge one hole, put the hood on the ground and the holes lined up for the bracket onto the hood. The windshield itself matched up spot on.

Got the new wheels on. World of traction difference between the Cooper street tires on the SS wheels and the r888r on the Cosmis wheels.

View attachment 53193View attachment 53194View attachment 53196

Is the swaying after a high load into decel normal for a goblin? Its like its settling down from being out of sorts.
That is the one bad thing that is still there in my handling. It's slight but shows up mostly when passing someone and letting off the gas as I get back into the lane.
 
Desert Sasqwatch
Minor toe changes (possibly rear, but likely front too) when transitioning from accel to deccel, plus a weight shift forward. I know you have the tube frame, so the rear geometry is better for anti-squat under acceleration, but McPherson struts have only minor anti-lift geometry to keep the rear from raising under deceleration or braking. The front suspension geometry, with no anti-dive, will add negative camber as the suspension compresses and a positive change in caster, plus a toe change with the transition of weight forward.

Pardon my long winded explanation, but suspension tuning is the next challenge. Minor changes in the front tie rod end height to eliminate toe changes as much as possible - IM me if you would like to discuss a way to check this and what could be modified to achieve this. Minor adjustments can make significant changes in how the suspension responds.
 
Mahkoi
Where is the suspension supposed to be? Right now everything is 3 clicks off of soft.

There's where I started at. Currently mine is at 5 off of soft in the rear and 4 off of soft in the front. Thats all street driving i haven't gotten into autox or tracking it.
 
comegetjoe
Car Needs more tuning. Its breaking up, maybe new plugs, maybe gapped correctly, unno, but it didnt start until the car had a full drive into it and was 100% warmed up. Its only 78° Today. Great day for a drive, but Im at the tuner's mercy.
 
Desert Sasqwatch
At what RPM is it breaking up? Low,, midrange, high? Each of these can be pointing to different issues. One thing that I can think of is the run an actual ground strap from the engine head to the frame ground. A not solid ground path for the plug coils has been reported to cause spark issues at mid to high RPMs. This is a simple one and it certainly can't hurt to have a better ground path than the engine assembly bolts and engine/transmission mounts.
 
comegetjoe
I see what you're saying on the ground, but it didnt do this yesterday or this morning on the way to the alignment shop, just on the way home.

First gear, entering boost and same with 2nd.
On load in 3rd just before it crosses over into positive pressure, but 4th it seems to cruise nicely along at 45-50mph in a low rpm, it was misfiring otw home so I just cruised home.
 
comegetjoe
Oh yes. I've emailed the tuner my latest files, but it seems to be a business day or 2 before he makes revisions and sends something back. So this might take a while.

I dont fully know what Im looking at and I ask questions when I dont, but Scott was telling me that longterm?longtrim? Looked like it was adding a small bit and that when we first went for a ride it was reaching desired boost level.
 
G
If you have the egr valve plugged in then it’s long term plus short term trims. Long term on LNF is very basic and is an average over the entire throttle/tpm range. You can look at the short term trims in areas that are breaking up and see if those numbers are out. 5% out is ok, but 10% is something you can feel for sure,

I hope your tuner is familiar with the LNF and is not a LS or all around tuner. LNF/E69 is its own little world.
 
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