V1 Kenny and Ashleys extended city goblin- 08 SS TC DONOR #218

[Kenny123]

Do your two pictures show the same vac line?

The rear of the valve cover goes to the port closest to the air intake filter.
The vac line close to the MAP sensor near the intake manifold goes to the block junction on top of the intake manifold.

View attachment 17745

Thank you. I had it backwards. Still seemed to work just fine but I'm gonna run out to the garage and switch them. Also need to order an inline check valve for the valve cover to intake line I believe. Thank you for the help.

 

[JBINTX]

Thank you. I had it backwards. Still seemed to work just fine but I'm gonna run out to the garage and switch them. Also need to order an inline check valve for the valve cover to intake line I believe. Thank you for the help.

Jason in Texas - ext. track - 09 SS/TC

So, after a few days of driving and about 100 plus miles, I actually had to get the windex out tonight and clean the windscreen!!! No - not complaining. Wearing it as a small badge of honor...... :) Goblin on friends!

dfkitcar.com

 

[JBINTX]

Thank you. I had it backwards. Still seemed to work just fine but I'm gonna run out to the garage and switch them. Also need to order an inline check valve for the valve cover to intake line I believe. Thank you for the help.

You also may want to look through this thread for some more edification on the vacuum system on the Ecotec. It is especially critical on the turbo version.
Plenty of others have thoughts of right and wrong. I will not argue that. But, information is useful.

oil separator

So there are plenty of references to the build up of carbon and gunk on the intake valves. Several videos are available about walnut blasting and such. Of course, the emission restrictions drove many of the systems that did not exist on engines years ago. I think we are all deleting the EVAP...

dfkitcar.com

 

[Kenny123]

Tonight I am going to tackle the intercooler pump and water loop along with a few odds and ends. My newest question is where do I get the power for the water pump for the air to water intercooler? Also where did everyone mount the water pump its self?

 

[Mayor West]

I believe DF has a red wire for that purpose, it would probably be zip tied to the loom somewhere?

 

[Kenny123]

Awesome yah that was my plan. I saw it and noticed it was accessory power so great to know. Thank you!

 

[Mayor West]

I don't have the air to water intercooler or pump so I'm just speaking from my memory of doing my own wiring, please don't screw yourself over and use the wrong wire... let's get someone with the same setup as you to confirm?

 

[Ark :D]

There's a wire singled out specifically in the new wiring videos for use powering the intercooler pump. I'm working now and don't have time to find which video and at what time, but it is definitely in there.

 

[Kenny123]

Got the intercooler water pump installed and getting hose tomorrow for it. I connected my intermediate shaft as well however I noticed when I start the car the driver side port where the axle will go is spinning slowly even in neutral which I know is ok. The intermediate shaft isn't rotating at all.. is that ok? Kind of assumed if one was rotating they both would be and I did a clutch for the first time so I'm hoping this is normal.

 

[Ross]

The intermediate shaft has a little more friction that the other side, and that is more resistance than spinning the planetary gears in the differential.
If you put a little drag on the spinning side, the other side should start to move. Try the brakes.

 

[Kenny123]

The intermediate shaft has a little more friction that the other side, and that is more resistance than spinning the planetary gears in the differential.
If you put a little drag on the spinning side, the other side should start to move. Try the brakes.

THATS good to know. I dont have the brakes on yet as I'm waiting for the sub frame bolts Ark was so kind to send. As soon as those come in I plan on REALLY wrapping this thing up. Just got nervous when I didn't see it rotating. Basically the driver side is still just an open port and the passenger side is from trans axle to intermediate shaft bearing. I've got to stop worrying so much haha.

 

[Kenny123]

So I installed the lines for the intercooler and a couple odds and ends. Decided to bring the engine up to temp. Fan came on briefly and then off a min later. Radiator seemed very warm almost hot to the touch and no fan. Swapped out the cooling fan relay with the rear defog relay since they are the same and nothing still. Also just saw my negative battery post wire was loose and unable to be tightened any further yet still stayed loose. Battery was only at 11.7 VDC. HOPING and PRAYING nothing over heated and the only issue is the negative wire and a bad battery. Any thoughts?

 

[OptimizePrime]

It's suspect you're able to turn the fans on at idle this time of year while you're just sitting there watching it. These motors can run relatively hot before anything negative happens (like 230+), based on what you said I wouldn't worry about it.

I usually idle and drive at 183-189deg....not even considered operating temps. My fans came on twice this weekend on the totd at 205 and quickly beat it down under 200 even at consistent 3-5k rpms for 15mins straight. Basically, you shouldn't have temp creep or overheating at idle unless something is up.

Your RPD has a coolant temp reading which will make it easy to know exactly where you're at.

You sure you have all the air out of the system? It takes about 4 gallons. You can usually feel if the hose is full when the car is running bc it's pressurized.

Thermostat is installed & functional?

Water pump is working?

Your front radiator hoses are installed correctly? A big air pocket can be created if not and kill the flow.

 

[Kenny123]

It's suspect you're able to turn the fans on at idle this time of year while you're just sitting there watching it. These motors can run relatively hot before anything negative happens (like 230+), based on what you said I wouldn't worry about it.

I usually idle and drive at 183-189deg....not even considered operating temps. My fans came on twice this weekend on the totd at 205 and quickly beat it down under 200 even at consistent 3-5k rpms for 15mins straight. Basically, you shouldn't have temp creep or overheating at idle unless something is up.

Your RPD has a coolant temp reading which will make it easy to know exactly where you're at.

You sure you have all the air out of the system? It takes about 4 gallons. You can usually feel if the hose is full when the car is running bc it's pressurized.

Thermostat is installed & functional?

Water pump is working?

Your front radiator hoses are installed correctly? A big air pocket can be created if not and kill the flow.

Maybe thats the issue. I only put about 2.5 gallons in. 2 gallons of antifreeze and half gallon of water. I did run it and the reservoir just dropped the level so I assume that the testator opened and I added that .5 gallons of water at that time. Not sure how to get all the air our but I'm gonna work on it. Thanks a ton. Didn't realize 4 gallons

 

[OptimizePrime]

Maybe thats the issue. I only put about 2.5 gallons in. 2 gallons of antifreeze and half gallon of water. I did run it and the reservoir just dropped the level so I assume that the testator opened and I added that .5 gallons of water at that time. Not sure how to get all the air our but I'm gonna work on it. Thanks a ton. Didn't realize 4 gallons

You may know this, but if you're adding water, ideally you'd use distilled to mitigate scale. Dex-cool for the coolant which can get annoyingly expensive at ~4gals.

What you can do is hold / attach the coolant overflow above the engine and at operating temp the thermostat will open and the coolant will flow. Squeeze / Pump all of your hoses to push the air through. The driver side uphill hose is usually the culprit.

 

[Kenny123]

You may know this, but if you're adding water, ideally you'd use distilled to mitigate scale. Dex-cool for the coolant which can get annoyingly expensive at ~4gals.

What you can do is hold / attach the coolant overflow above the engine and at operating temp the thermostat will open and the coolant will flow. Squeeze / Pump all of your hoses to push the air through. The driver side uphill hose is usually the culprit.

Yah I did use distilled water for sure! I will grab 2 more gallons tomorrow and give her a whirl. I hate not being able to read the temps but the obd scanner i have doesn't tell temps as far as I know. I also bought a cheapo Bluetooth one aside from my good one and that thing just doesn't work hah.

 

[OptimizePrime]

Do you have an RPD? I don't know if the '08s had them or not

 

[Kenny123]

No :-( I have the analog gauge. I wish I had that. I am going to install an oil temp gage for sure though.

 

[Ross]

I use high rpm to push the air out of the cooling system. It is quick, and doesn't require any tools. only takes ~5 seconds of 5000 rpm.

 

[Kenny123]

I use high rpm to push the air out of the cooling system. It is quick, and doesn't require any tools. only takes ~5 seconds of 5000 rpm.

So you take the reservoir top off and just warm the engine and rev to 5k??!