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V1 LaunchPad's technology demonstrator -08 SS/TC donor- #109 registered

LaunchPad
I have one more mystery connector. it is the white plug towards the center- I will edit this in a bit with the wire colors going into it. (forgot those details in the shop) but it is supper stubby and on the harness that goes into the transmission under the shifter cable mount. 4 inches slack at best and has a blue keeper

55626
 
LaunchPad
Well after lots of fighting with things today I am ABOUT ready to stick a battery in up front. . .except for ONE major issue! the main power cable is AT LEAST 10 inches short of being able to connect!

what do you guys suggest?

55627


i think i have a dragster battery kit that i could use to swap the whole thing out. . . .else amazon has a 2awg in 15 feet for only ~$42. grr
 
LaunchPad
Do you have it routed from the battery to the starter or battery to the fuse box? Cable should go from battery to starter and then shorter cable to fuse box.

an ah hah moment! duh. that might somewhat help things out. i need to go back out and look under the car again.
 
LaunchPad
I made my power line from the starter to the fuse box. looks like I am ready for a battery- the 3rd brake light and resister are on order but things should work before they get here.

I have only to connect the intercooler 3/4 hoses and then ready for fluids. I seem to have run out of the "turbo style" or t-bolt hose clamps that I prefer with the next size up is 3mm too big. grr. so will order those shortly. I didn't care for all the fittings and clamps and have a sample in had to tote to the parts store of a formed 3/4 hose that will just about eliminate the barb fittings from tunnel to my intercooler. . . if luck is with me they will have one or more on the wall then I will have a part number for this special hose. lol.

I have a few turbo boot/adapters to hut down and order tonight so that the intake is actually filtering air. Not sure how I missed some of these parts way back when the car was at Oldb1s place.

I have the stock cobalt seat belts in for now. if I determine I am going to be racing it at some point I may upgrade but I really have yet to find a racing harness that is even remotely friendly to a quick buckle in. I finally got the dang stock (SS) seats to fit with a whole lotta in and out and shaving bits off both the front hooks and the sides of the rear mount plates and trimming the . . parking brake bracket. so one more time to pull them out because I forgot to first bolt the shifter tunnel piece to the tunnel itself <face palm>

So in between going thru parts bins for for this that or the other misc hose/wire/seat connections I drug in one of the wheels from my Solstice GXP. those look really good on the Goblin but the chrome doesn't match my paint scheme and the backspacing make for a bit tight on the rear (10mm spacer fixes it right up). My Saturn Sky has the wheels in black which would match my paint but that was a bit further walk away from the shop to steal a tire off temporarily. lol. any ma who. . . sky/solstice both have 245/45 r 18 and the SS cobalt had 225/40 r 18 this make for some difference! over an inch and a half taller and that will affect speedo. . . .any one re-calibrate those for their Goblin?

Besides my preference for looks and all. . . I have a 5 other vehicle projects on the books (to be sold) that are going to be needing wheels and tires shortly and they all have 5x110 hubs. it sure would be nice to just bulk order all the wheels and tires up front. standards make my headaches a bit less. lol.


55646
 
Ross
You can have the convenience of the stock 3 point seat belt, and the safety of a 5 point harness, both on the same seat.
I choose the stock seat belt for city driving, and the 5 point for the race track.
 
Robinjo
I have the stock cobalt seat belts in for now. if I determine I am going to be racing it at some point I may upgrade but I really have yet to find a racing harness that is even remotely friendly to a quick buckle in. I finally got the dang stock (SS) seats to fit with a whole lotta in and out and shaving bits off both the front hooks and the sides of the rear mount plates and trimming the . . parking brake bracket. so one more time to pull them out because I forgot to first bolt the shifter tunnel piece to the tunnel itself <face palm>

My Saturn Sky has the wheels in black which would match my paint but that was a bit further walk away from the shop to steal a tire off temporarily. lol. any ma who. . . sky/solstice both have 245/45 r 18 and the SS cobalt had 225/40 r 18 this make for some difference! over an inch and a half taller and that will affect speedo. . . .any one re-calibrate those for their Goblin?

I have the stock seats and they do sit a bit high for my liking, but they were free. I keep an eye out on The Facebook for a set of seats and will replace them someday. The stock ones are comfortable and as Ross mentioned, give flexibility in the seatbelt option.

HP Tuners will let you recalibrate your tire ratio. Along with let you trouble shoot issues, tune your own parameters for the ECU.
 
LaunchPad
You can have the convenience of the stock 3 point seat belt, and the safety of a 5 point harness, both on the same seat.
I choose the stock seat belt for city driving, and the 5 point for the race track.

LOVE it man! You guys sure inspire me- if I can get some kydex covers made for those retractors by goblin fest ( can't promise just yet due to workload) would you want a set?
 
LaunchPad
I have the stock seats and they do sit a bit high for my liking, but they were free. I keep an eye out on The Facebook for a set of seats and will replace them someday. The stock ones are comfortable and as Ross mentioned, give flexibility in the seatbelt option.

HP Tuners will let you recalibrate your tire ratio. Along with let you trouble shoot issues, tune your own parameters for the ECU.

I like the stock seats in the Goblin but I may have to shorten the steering shaft to move wheel away. it is pretty tight. I am looking for some seats for another project that lay back quite a bit more. . .the stock version of this uses a molded fiberglass tub and is 100% not done for driver comfort unless one happens to just fit perfectly. I have 4 chassis and all the molds for the fiberglass bodies but I will be modifying to be a cobalt (and one TDI) powered 4 wheeler instead of the 3 so might as well plan on a better interior. The red one is an artist concept. . . the donors have already been dismantled and ready to go. new molds will need work i am sure for the changes. . .

All these ecotech vehicles I should definitely be investing in the HP tuners. . maybe find someone to hire to run the thing because I am just spread too thin since the wife and daughter moved down here.

55648
55649
 
Ross
LOVE it man! You guys sure inspire me- if I can get some kydex covers made for those retractors by goblin fest ( can't promise just yet due to workload) would you want a set?
Sounds fancy! Shoot me a price. My HVAC tape seems to be working, but it does look a little red neck, a little mickey mouse.
 
LaunchPad
Sounds fancy! Shoot me a price. My HVAC tape seems to be working, but it does look a little red neck, a little mickey mouse.

if I can pull it off I'd do it just because you have always been so helpful. But we see if I can get to it in the next day or so while I wait for my other parts to ship. I have bunch of panels of kydex sitting around here that might be big enough- if I need bigger sheets that goes into the same backlog as the other parts. lol. I am also kinda procrastinating on dealing with changes that the business partner threw into the room like a grenade for me to figure out- the kydex at least sounds fun. :)

gotta about a 3 hour stint in the car to go run into and around Omaha looking in person for parts. woulda been a darn nice shop day today!
 
Desert Sasqwatch
Moving the steering wheel location forward can be accomplished by cutting down the aluminum cylinder (pop can) that everything bolts into. Shortening this cylinder moves the steering bearing further forward and the steering wheel. Just have to be certain of measuring and drilling new locations for the 3 holes to match what gets cut off. :D
 
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comegetjoe
Moving the steering wheel location forward can be accomplished my cutting down the aluminum cylinder (pop can) that everything bolts into. Shortening this cylinder moves the steering bearing further forward and the steering wheel. Just have to be certain of measuring and drilling new locations for the 3 holes to match what gets cut off. :D
Pictures or it didnt happen.
 
Desert Sasqwatch
Cut the aluminum cylinder to make it shorter to move the steering shaft bearing closer to the dash. Redrill the 3 mounting holes for the bracket that is installed into the cylinder. Just make sure they are offset by 60 degrees from the opposite end.
PXL_20260213_213345831.jpg


How would you move the steering wheel closer to the dash if you don't think this is the most logical means of doing so. Please elaborate.
 
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