V1 Mikes Extended, Full Frame Goblin - 2009 Cobalt LS with 135k donor

[mike_sno]

Can someone explain me why there is a plug at the engine harness which

I’m not sure if these will help much, but it’s all I got
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That's awesome. I'll reroute my harness tomorrow. Those pictures are very helpful.

 

[Rttoys]

There’s a main connector that separates the engine/trans harness from the main harness on the vehicle. If that’s what you are talking about. Makes drivetrain removal easier when servicing and such.

 

[mike_sno]

Thought I share the brake and clutch switch installation to convert back from the 2009 to the 2007 wiring. Will mill the part out of Aluminum once I get a second.

 

[mike_sno]

On my LSJ wiring harness, I have one plug in an odd position, I traced the cable to the body to engine harness connector and it seems that this is for the backup lamp. I believe this plug gets connected to the gearbox. I thought that the backup lamp signal comes from the stick. Can someone confirm that the backup lamp signal comes from the gearbox?

 

[Ross]

Yes, the backup lamp switch is on top of the F35 tranny.

 

[Robinjo]

Yes, the backup lamp switch is on top of the F35 tranny.

Mine has two wires coming out of it, a pink one and a green one. It may differ from year to year though.

 

[mike_sno]

If I will ever start swaping the engines. I love driving the goblin so much that I find every possibile excuse from really doing it. Lots of other projects at home got done all the sudden

 

[mike_sno]

I did it. The engine is out. Did it all myself, and with just one cherry picker. Would be probably 3x faster with 2 persons or a second cherry picker.

I dropped the complete subframe since I am keeping the gearbox.

I saw the gearbox mount on the front (inlet side of the engine) has no screw in the middle. Does anyone know how long this screw needs to be? I may grab one from the local hardware store.

 

[Rttoys]

Which screw? Pic?

 

[mike_sno]

Here you go. Another question, the holes do not align. Is there a trick to get the screw in? Is that intentional to have the bearings under load??

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

You're saying there was no bolt in this mount when you disassembled your donor? That's horrifying! The previous owner is probably lucky the other mounts didn't fail, if this is the case.

Dig through the donor bolts you were advised to keep and see if a grade 10 (it will have a number 10 on the head) will fit for length. Otherwise measure and get a metric grade 10 that fits.

 

[Gtstorey]

Really 8.8 bolts will work here but if you have the option 10.9 would give you a little extra "comfort".

It can't be loaded to much since it has the rubber bushing still. And worked without a bolt at all. Most of the "holding" is done by the bolts in the top.

 

[mike_sno]

@Desert Sasqwatch Yes, that's correct. I wonder how much better it was. This is literally the first flaw I saw on this car. The craftsmanship besides that is outstanding, at least what the former owner did. LOL.

Anyway, a 2x4 and a M12x90mm screw and the gearbox is supported.

 

[mike_sno]

I believe this is the EVAP system. Do I need to keep it, what are the pro/cons?

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

If it's not needed for your DMV jurisdiction, it's your choice to leave it in or take it out. If you take it out hang onto it and list the system in the classifieds for another builder who may get stuck needing it.

 

[Rttoys]

Ya. You’ll need that bolt

Evap is up to you and if you are required emission testing

 

[Rauq]

Your chassis may have been built before DF came out with F23 solid mounts; do you have a solid rear trans mount?

 

[Gtstorey]

Your chassis may have been built before DF came out with F23 solid mounts; do you have a solid rear trans mount?

It was still an option on mine at as of fall of 2020 so I just made my own.

 

[Rauq]

It was an option on SS donor builds when we ordered our kits, but I believe unavailable for base model builds until later than that. I'm pretty sure we're swapping an LSJ into a running driving LAP/F23 Goblin, correct?

I ask because the rear trans mount is the same between the F23 and F35 so I figured it was possible to have a solid rear trans mount to go with that donor rubber front mount. I could be off but I seem to recall that Goblin solid trans mounts are built to rotate the powertrain like OTTP and ZZP's aftermarket rotated trans mounts (which are F35 only). I think the rotated trans mounts are taller at the rear for what it's worth.

 

[mike_sno]

Your chassis may have been built before DF came out with F23 solid mounts; do you have a solid rear trans mount?

The way I see it, both are rubber mounts in an aluminum braket. Looks pretty standard. Are the solid mounts better? I mean the car drove pretty nice without a screw at all