V1 Neodied's #375 Extended Track - 07 SS/SC donor

[Desert Sasqwatch]

If you have a non-TC LNF donor they should work. Have seen where these were discussed in the forum in the past, but don't recall reading of anyone using them.

 

[Fozda]

I'm putting them on mine this winter but that doesn't really help answer any questions now.

 

[neodied]

I'm putting them on mine this winter but that doesn't really help answer any questions now.

You'll probably get to them sooner than I will, so I'll keep an eye on your thread and save the donor ones for now.

 

[Gtstorey]

They are quite a lot more ($200) more than GM ones through Rock Auto. And there are a lot of others like MOOG that are even cheaper. I don't think they would likely be a performance upgrade for the Goblin unless they are lighter, which they probably aren't.

 

[Ghostknife]

Plus they will rust after getting rock chips since they are steel

 

[Rauq]

For my money, the tubular arms don't make sense. I suspect the majority of the improvement comes from the heim joint where every stock arm will have the floppy rubber bushing. With the Moog bushing you can eliminate the vast majority of that slop at a fraction of the cost. I'd even run OTTP's spherical bearings (on sale!) before spending the money on ZZP's tubular control arms.

 

[neodied]

Alright, so the suggestion then is:
Aluminum control arms (lighter, corrosion resistant, cheaper)
Replace the rear lower control arm rubber bushing with a spherical bearing

So something like this:
Control Arm ~$105 MOOG RK620898 (www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3984138)
Spherical Bearing ~$30 MOOG K201285 (www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8712024)

To swap the bearing I'd need a press but there are free loaner tools from my local auto store.

 

[Ghostknife]

Alright, so the suggestion then is:
Aluminum control arms (lighter, corrosion resistant, cheaper)
Replace the rear lower control arm rubber bushing with a spherical bearing

So something like this:
Control Arm ~$105 MOOG RK620898 (www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3984138)
Spherical Bearing ~$30 MOOG K201285 (www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8712024)

To swap the bearing I'd need a press but there are free loaner tools from my local auto store.

you might get lucky my passenger side fell right out with a tap of a hammer but the driver side I will need a press to get the bearing out of the knuckle

 

[Gtstorey]

you might get lucky my passenger side fell right out with a tap of a hammer but the driver side I will need a press to get the bearing out of the knuckle

He's talking about pressing in/out the bearing/bushing in the control arm, not the knuckle. I did this a few weeks ago and it was easy with a press.

 

[Ghostknife]

He's talking about pressing in/out the bearing/bushing in the control arm, not the knuckle. I did this a few weeks ago and it was easy with a press.

yep your right, over my head lol

 

[Iwanttogofast]

I wanted an '07 specifically since Wikipedia says these came standard with LSD, though I have not taken the time to confirm that yet for mine.

Just curious if you found out if yours is a G85 car. As others have stated, that Wikipedia info is incorrect. I saw the exact same thing when I bid on my donor, and I found out from the transmission tag that I do not have G85. Someone should delete that info from Wikipedia!!



If your donor has G85, where mine shows "FZ", yours will state "LSD". Or you can check your RPO code sticker in the trunk. Mine didn't have an RPO code sticker, so I had to wait until I pulled my engine/trans. Then I was bummed...

 

[Fozda]

For my money, the tubular arms don't make sense. I suspect the majority of the improvement comes from the heim joint where every stock arm will have the floppy rubber bushing. With the Moog bushing you can eliminate the vast majority of that slop at a fraction of the cost. I'd even run OTTP's spherical bearings (on sale!) before spending the money on ZZP's tubular control arms.

I'd have to agree with all of that except I managed to find a pair slightly used for significantly cheaper. I had already replaced the bushings with the Moog Problem Solvers as well.

Plus they will rust after getting rock chips since they are steel

I wanted the steel because I plan to modify them and welding steel just seems so much safer than welding cast aluminum.

 

[Rauq]

Alright, so the suggestion then is:
Aluminum control arms (lighter, corrosion resistant, cheaper)
Replace the rear lower control arm rubber bushing with a spherical bearing

So something like this:
Control Arm ~$105 MOOG RK620898 (www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3984138)
Spherical Bearing ~$30 MOOG K201285 (www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8712024)

To swap the bearing I'd need a press but there are free loaner tools from my local auto store.

Is there a reason you can't reuse your stock control arms? The bushings are replaceable, as is the ball joint.

 

[Rttoys]

Alright, so the suggestion then is:
Aluminum control arms (lighter, corrosion resistant, cheaper)
Replace the rear lower control arm rubber bushing with a spherical bearing

So something like this:
Control Arm ~$105 MOOG RK620898 (www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3984138)
Spherical Bearing ~$30 MOOG K201285 (www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8712024)

To swap the bearing I'd need a press but there are free loaner tools from my local auto store.

A press is a must for the bushing. Pressing out the old bushing is easy…..but…….
NOTE:
Put the new spherical heim in the freezer over night and heat the control arm with a heat gun where the bushing goes. It’ll slide in pretty effortlessly doing that, because science.

oh. And the moog is much easier to press in than the OTTP.

 

[Mahkoi]

I kept the factory aluminum arms and put all new moog bushings/ ball joints in. The bushing wasn't bad to install with my arbor press. The rivets for the ball joints fought me even after cutting the heads and hitting them with the air hammer. If that's the route you want to go and don't have the tools hit me up, I'm not far from you (clarkston)and we can knock them out in my garage.

 

[Sluggonaut]

The rivets for the ball joints fought me even after cutting the heads and hitting them with the air hammer.

I've seen it mentioned before that you can grind the rivets to remove. Is it easier to do that or drill them out? I would think drilling out those rivets wouldn't be much fun.

 

[Mahkoi]

I've seen it mentioned before that you can grind the rivets to remove. Is it easier to do that or drill them out? I would think drilling out those rivets wouldn't be much fun.

I didn't try drilling but they are tough little guys. I didn't drill because with my luck I wouldn't drill straight and mess up the aluminum.

 

[neodied]

I kept the factory aluminum arms and put all new moog bushings/ ball joints in. The bushing wasn't bad to install with my arbor press. The rivets for the ball joints fought me even after cutting the heads and hitting them with the air hammer. If that's the route you want to go and don't have the tools hit me up, I'm not far from you (clarkston)and we can knock them out in my garage.

Yeah, that seems to be the path of least expense and effort while still getting good handling. I appreciate the offer for assistance, I'll reach out when I hit that point in the assembly process!

 

[neodied]

Just curious if you found out if yours is a G85 car. As others have stated, that Wikipedia info is incorrect. I saw the exact same thing when I bid on my donor, and I found out from the transmission tag that I do not have G85. Someone should delete that info from Wikipedia!!

According to my trunk RPO tag, I do have the G85/LSD option! And yeah, I would propose an edit to Wikipedia but I don't know what the proper procedure is. Maybe I'll make an account and try it out. What's the worst that could happen, get yelled at by an overzealous internet moderator for not following The Process™?

 

[neodied]

I would propose an edit to Wikipedia but I don't know what the proper procedure is. Maybe I'll make an account and try it out. What's the worst that could happen, get yelled at by an overzealous internet moderator for not following The Process™?

Welp, I made the edit to remove that "G85 is standard on 07-10" segment. Hopefully that will help future builders!