V1 Nuker's City Goblin build - 2007 SS SC Donor - Completed/Licensed

[TheNuker]

Okay thanks for the input! I was considering just pulling in the whole stock wiring harness and getting engine running then trimming out the un-needed parts, Is this a good idea?

Nuker-

 

[JSATX]

Honestly I would recommend against that. It's too many wires to deal with. And you can't get around installing the 7' extension wires. Go ahead and cut all the existing sheath off and strip the things you definitely won't need. Stereo, locks etc. but watch out for the tan/black communications wire, there's a post in my build thread on it.

 

[JSATX]

Actually you could possibly get away with installing an untrimmed wire harness if you put the BCM, battery, and ignition/key in the back by the engine. But I don't know what you gain by testing it like that.

 

[TheNuker]

Question for you guys with SS/SC when do you get the inter cooler radiator? Also when do you get the exhaust stuff like Muffler? Is that in stage 2?

Thanks!
Nuker-

 

[TheNuker]

Hey guys,

We are having some serious trouble pulling the radiator hose through the frame. The rope keeps ripping out of the hose. 3 times now I'm sure we will be short hose now. We have used 1/2 a bottle of tire wet paint rollers exactly as described. 3 times it just rips through. I don't know what else to do....

Nuker-

 

[JSATX]

Did you see Bruce's post on my build? Stick a little roller in front of the tube as you pull through. Soak the roller in a tub of tire wet first.

Mine broke at least three times, Maybe more. I poured half a bottle into the frame and made sure it ran out the other side before sliding the paint roller back and forth. And make sure as soon as you start pulling you don't stop. Overcoming the initial friction is the hard part, once it's moving it slides better. Don't give up, It'll go.

 

[Lonny]

Sorry to hear about the hose hassle.

We have been discussing a different way of attaching the rope to the hose using a round plug and a sleeve. I will test this tomorrow and let you know if this is a better option.

Also let me know if you don't have enough hose left.

 

[Adam]

We are going to start supplying some hardware to make pulling the hoses easier. The pieces are simple: an aluminum puck that fits inside the hose and an aluminum ring that is smaller than the OD of the hose. We made a set this morning and tried them out. They definitely allow us to pull very hard without tearing the hose.

We tied a knot on one side of the puck and slipped the ring over it.

Then we cut the end of the hose to let it collapse. We had to do this to make it possible to slide the ring over the hose.

We pushed the puck down into the hose a few inches.

And then we slid the ring over the hose. It is important to get it well past the cuts in the hose or else they will allow the ring to come off easily.

When you pull on the rope the slug can't get out and if you've put the ring far enough on the hose, it won't come off. We tested with the hose soaked in Tire Wet and it all held. If anyone that already has their first stage needs this hardware, let us know.

 

[Johvans]

If anyone that already has their first stage needs this hardware, let us know.

I'd like the hardware please!

 

[TheNuker]

The new radiator hose pulling parts worked great! So glad to be past that part.

But now I picked up my fuel pump and one of the 2 plastic nipples broke right off with just a tap. Sigh. I'm guessing I'll need to buy a new one?

Nuker-

 

[BAR-AIR]

You can reattached the ends.

 

[TheNuker]

So this is salvageable?

 

[BAR-AIR]

Ugh!!! I thought you were talking about the other ends. Because I shortened mine.
But... I don't know how much meat you have in that plastic. But I think I would try to thread and tap the broken end into the pump. Add a brass fitting (one end threaded and one barbed) then heat the plastic tube and slide over the fitting let shrink over the barbs it is the same way we shorten the lines (only we just reused the plastic ends). Those fuel pumps aren't cheap both my donors had the California Emissions pumps the cheapest I found was $89.00 and another $10.00 for the pigtail. So unless someone else has a sure fire fix what do you have to loose $3.00 for a fitting and some time.

 

[TheNuker]

Thanks for your suggestion Bar-Air. I'm going to give that a shot for sure. I'm still shocked at how fragile that was!

On another note does the stage 2 come with intercolor / piping or am I on my own. I'm just looking ahead to first startup. Besides what comes in the stage one what do I need?

Thanks!
Nuker-

 

[TomsGarage]

When you pull on the rope the slug can't get out and if you've put the ring far enough on the hose, it won't come off. We tested with the hose soaked in Tire Wet and it all held. If anyone that already has their first stage needs this hardware, let us know.

Yes please!!

 

[TheNuker]

Things are coming along!

Nuker-

 

[TheNuker]

Putting the engine harness back on,

Can anyone tell me what these 4 plugs are for? I know at least one of them is for the AC compressor that I removed but I can't seem to find anything else to plug into the others...

Thanks!
Nuker-

 

[Lonny]

In the top pic the red one is the radiator fan plug. The other two are AC clutch and AC pressure sensor.

In the other pic it could be the fuel injector or throttle and the other looks like an O2 sensor.

I'll check when I get back to the shop.

 

[TheNuker]

Thank you very much Lonny, So I can remove those first 2 Ac clutch/pressure sensors. The radiator fan is in the front now so do I keep that one? I think your right about the square blue one as I only have one O2 sensor and stock the cobalt has 2. I think the other 8 pin purple plug is plugged into the fuel injector rail.

Nuker-

 

[Lonny]

On a naturally aspirated Cobalt the fan has three wires.
We run the light blue wire to the front to run the fan.
You can zip tie the AC plugs out of the way, they can't be seen and there is no real weight savings by removing them.