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V1 r3drckt - extended track - 06 SS/SC G85

R
Because of the dimensions, every online printing company I tried having make it would only do SLS Nylon or nothing at all. Guessing their machines don't have large print beds that can do 402mm long pieces :( I didn't want to spend the money on an aluminum CNC piece yet if I wasn't 100% certain everything would line up correct. Getting the split design to line up could've been a fluke because the left and right side bolt holes are separated and forced to line up. But if they were too close in the whole design (because I made it 402mm instead of 404mm lets say) then it wouldn't have worked. Most online printing companies quoted me $80+ to make this piece, but I did find one out of France for $56 shipped.

Now that I know the whole piece is accurate, I'm working with @TheNuker to have it CNC out of 1/8" aluminum plate. He's pretty busy at the moment so may be some time before he can get to it, but I'm grateful for all the help he has contributed to this community already with the solid shifter group buy.
 
Ross
The nylon might me nice for RGB LED back lighting, as it probably is translucent. Even the aluminum might be nice too, but I'm curious what the nylon would look like. Anyhow, nice job, it looks great.
 
Rttoys
Much lower than I thought it’d be. PLA most likely wouldn’t melt or warp at that temp if I had to guess.
It was only 70* outside. I’ll retell them in a few weeks when we are 20* hotter, but still would be under 200 I’d say.
 
R
Received a call today that my Seibon wing will be delivered tomorrow. They shipped it freight due to the size. Hopefully it arrives in one piece.
 
R
Work on the goblin has been on hold waiting for the fab shop to have time to get the chassis in. Hated that nothing has been completed towards assembly so took some time tonight to get the Planted seat brackets mounted.

Used a 13/32nd drill bit and made the holes for the hooked ends. Didn’t modify the Planted brackets at all so they still have the hooked end inside the square tube. Doing this also makes the rear bracket mounts sit flush with the frame’s seat mounts.
 

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SmsDetroit
Work on the goblin has been on hold waiting for the fab shop to have time to get the chassis in. Hated that nothing has been completed towards assembly so took some time tonight to get the Planted seat brackets mounted.

Used a 13/32nd drill bit and made the holes for the hooked ends. Didn’t modify the Planted brackets at all so they still have the hooked end inside the square tube. Doing this also makes the rear bracket mounts sit flush with the frame’s seat mounts.
Here was my ideas for the planted brackets
 

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R
I saw that right before I mounted mine. What'd you do with the hooked ends of the bracket? I didn't want mine hanging below frame and didn't want to cut them off, rather wanted them to still "hook" into something to both hold down and to hold in place in case the rear bolts broke.
 
Desert Sasqwatch
There are notches in the floor panel to accommodate the seat rail hooks the attach under the frame cross rails. The 3/8 of an inch that the seat rail hooks hang down have no effect on ground clearance or aerodynamics.
 
SmsDetroit
I saw that right before I mounted mine. What'd you do with the hooked ends of the bracket? I didn't want mine hanging below frame and didn't want to cut them off, rather wanted them to still "hook" into something to both hold down and to hold in place in case the rear bolts broke.
Here’s what the underside looks like.
 

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Rttoys
Same as mine. I look at it as a bumper for the underside. :D You could shave the brackets down a bit if need be though.
 
R
Any of you using the Braum sliders and planted seat brackets? I have mine mounted so you push the rail down to slide the seats and in this format, the seat doesn’t touch the back wall like I would’ve expected. In fact, with the seat slid all the way back, I can almost toe the front firewall (I’m 5’8” and feel that shouldn’t be the case in the extended chassis). I tried to switch the rails from side to side (seemed like sliding forward had way more travel than sliding backwards), but then pulling the rail up hits the seat and won’t unlock the sliders.
 
Rttoys
I had something similar with mine: nrg seats/sliders and planted mounts.

The slider lever is in the downward position and has to be pulled up to move the seat. With The seat in the far back position, the lever would hit the mount and not lock the seat. I ended up pulling the lever, straightening it out and shaving a little off the mount to get the slider to fully engage in the full back position. I pulled the assembly out and drank about it for a while, before I did anything. You may need to do something similar.
 
R
The bolts going into the seats are relatively long, I may add a few spacers between the seat and the sliders and see if that solves the issue, otherwise I'll get longer bolts to add a nut or 2 for a spacer. I had to put a nut between the slider and the seat bracket so the handle could be pushed down to unlock the sliders.
 
R
Video doesn’t show it, but I also checked the TB movement with the gas pedal and it also works. I think it’s relatively safe to say my harness is good (enough) to start the engine harness disconnect, engine rebuild, paint and assembly.
 
R
Next issue I have is HP Tuners won’t read the ECM. The error code I looked up said to resync the adapter with the account and if that doesn’t work than to use a bench harness. Anyone else run into this issue? I resync and it completed. Info shows the license and my 2 credits available so thinking the bench harness is next
 

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