V1 r3drckt - extended track - 06 SS/SC G85

[r3drckt]

Painted the gauge pod.

 

[r3drckt]

Finally got some half decent weather. V1.5 of the tune was logged, but we are chasing an issue where it stalls when shifting to neutral to coast to a stop. RPM drops and then it doesn’t want to save itself without me blipping the gas a few times. Because of that, I’m holding off on posting that tune.

I’m still having a slight oil leak from the AN fitting and I’m thinking I may have damaged the seat in the fitting. I will have to drain the oil and then swap the fitting or put a conical seal on it. That’s why the ducting is off around those HEs.

Also got the side paneling cut and mounted for the driver side. Found that my shoes likes to catch on the bolt and nut on the inside when using the clutch at the moment. May flip the bolt and see if that fixes it.

 

[PaulPerger]

Finally got some half decent weather. V1.5 of the tune was logged, but we are chasing an issue where it stalls when shifting to neutral to coast to a stop. RPM drops and then it doesn’t want to save itself without me blipping the gas a few times. Because of that, I’m holding off on posting that tune.

I’m still having a slight oil leak from the AN fitting and I’m thinking I may have damaged the seat in the fitting. I will have to drain the oil and then swap the fitting or put a conical seal on it. That’s why the ducting is off around those HEs.

Also got the side paneling cut and mounted for the driver side. Found that my shoes likes to catch on the bolt and nut on the inside when using the clutch at the moment. May flip the bolt and see if that fixes it.

View attachment 34298

Is there a reason the circled tab is on the outside and not the inside like the others?

 

[r3drckt]

That tab is a factory point that I didn't think to cut off before powder coating because I was going to use it as a bottom mounting point for the panel. I didn't have my panels cut yet before powder to test fit, nor the common sense to visually see it didn't line up with the tabs that I welded in, so it was left and painted.

With that said, between that tab and the bolt for the lap belt, it holds nicely and doesn't rattle at all. Only rattles I have currently are from the side ducts that I will be securing for the HEs. I'm also going to run edge trim around the panels because I couldn't cut a straight line to save my life and I also don't want the edges to scratch up the powder coat. I'm also going to vinyl wrap these panels in carbon fiber so it blends in nicer.

 

[r3drckt]

Finally made time to work on the goblin. I’ve basically placed remote tuning on hold until I get my coolant leak fixed. I’m thinking it’s my laminova cores in the intake so I’ll be pulling that off this weekend hopefully.

Today was very successful. I mounted the passenger side panels (still haven’t wrapped either side).

Then I mounted my hood and attached the 4” hinges on the front side.

Then I used this window expanding foam barrier to help seal between the foot well cover and the hood as I hear it becomes a heater to the face having both on:

Then I mounted my 3D printed gauge pod:

Lastly I mounted the windshield. before anyone mentions it, I know the windshield is supposed to be behind the bracket. I bent my tabs so I can have the windshield tilt back a bit for looks. Because of this, the windscreen wouldn’t line up with the holes in the bracket. Moving to the front of the bracket fixed that issue.

 

[r3drckt]

Next up is to scope the intake manifold to see if coolant is in there. My coolant loop for the intake seems to be loosing coolant so hoping that’s where the issue is. Fix that leak if possible this weekend.

Take the exhaust from my turbo kit I got from ZZP and cut it down and modify it to fit around the tow hitch. Maybe merge it with the DF exhaust. Not sure.

Then I’ll start my registration process for Florida. Hopefully they don’t kick it back

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

WOW! Looks fantastic and you are so close to taking your son out for a first drive!

Question, did you back the hinges on the hood with a BIG backing plate? I looked back thru you last 6-7 log pages and didn't see if this was mentioned. Don't want to see your shiny new hood get broken and that reinforcement is a must on that tiny piece of fiberglass across the bottom of the nose.

 

[Waterdriver]

Next up is to scope the intake manifold to see if coolant is in there. My coolant loop for the intake seems to be loosing coolant so hoping that’s where the issue is. Fix that leak if possible this weekend.

Take the exhaust from my turbo kit I got from ZZP and cut it down and modify it to fit around the tow hitch. Maybe merge it with the DF exhaust. Not sure.

Then I’ll start my registration process for Florida. Hopefully they don’t kick it back

Are you running the stock intercooler endplate or ZZP's dual pass endplate?

 

[r3drckt]

I was blessed with a daughter who loves dad's racecar thankfully, though I'm still hopeful for a son in the future she's already been on a drive in mom's lap (she's 3 so couldn't fit the harness good solo) and she enjoyed it.

The hinges are 4" each and cover the underside quite good IMO. Didn't put any backing plate on the inside of the hood, though all 8 bolts have washers on both sides to disperse the clamping force. In the end, I don't plan on leaving my hood hinged up like that often so I'm not worried about it.

 

[r3drckt]

Are you running the stock intercooler endplate or ZZP's dual pass endplate?

dual pass from ZZP. The endplate gasket was kinda stretched it looked like when I put it back on, but it's not leaking from there. I'm thinking it's my o-rings on the cores because I don't remember if I used dielectric grease on them during install. If it's not those, then I might've damaged the end of the cores when rotating them around for the dual pass (hoping it's not this). But I won't know for sure until I scope it while it's still on. Don't wanna drain the lines and cores and not be able to tell if there was a leak or not.

 

[escapepilot]

Tell us more about that laid back windshield. How much did you bend the tabs back? Can you give us a side view also? I think laying it back would improve looks a ton so give us details please.

 

[Gtstorey]

I'm playing with some windshield ideas right now including separating the part of the frame that bolts to the hood from the metal section across the bottom of the "glass" and bolting the two together. This way I can move the windshield up and down to allow more or less air under it. I'm thinking about up to 1" of gap under down to almost nothing. I can also play with angles and the amount of curve to the windshield.

Right now, I'm running a 1/2 windshield in front of the driver. End goal is to be able to add/remove a passenger side windshield easily, but allow more air to my rear mounted heat exchanger when driving solo (90%+ of the time) and hopefully make driver cooler also. Right now, I'm sorta failing on the driver and probably succeeding on the heat exchanger. The air blowing through the passenger side is pulling heat from the engine around my footwell cover and across my legs. My footwell cover is a little shorter than the DF one so I am going to try and extend it and maybe seal it and see if that helps. Once I get it further along I'll post pictures and more info.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

I laid the windshield back during dry fitting a while back:

Desert Sasqwatch #155 Track (mods) - 08 SS/TC crate LNF F40

Meh. I put Mazda Miata seats in my CJ with the speakers in the headrest. Decent sound, right at my ears. :D

dfkitcar.com

I aligned with the full cage front A-pillar angle at about 50ish degrees (from vertical). Read through the 3-4 posts in my build log for the info to realign the frame with the hood and putting a curve into the windshield - which helps with stiffness to air load.

 

[Waterdriver]

dual pass from ZZP. The endplate gasket was kinda stretched it looked like when I put it back on, but it's not leaking from there. I'm thinking it's my o-rings on the cores because I don't remember if I used dielectric grease on them during install. If it's not those, then I might've damaged the end of the cores when rotating them around for the dual pass (hoping it's not this). But I won't know for sure until I scope it while it's still on. Don't wanna drain the lines and cores and not be able to tell if there was a leak or not.

If you didn't check before installing the ZZP endplate, the bore the oring sits in on the endplate. The first endplate I received from ZZP was a bad casting right in the o-ring sealing surfaces. Leaked like a sieve, draining my resevoir into the manifold from only the pressure of gravity.
Took everything off and the manifold out of the car, pressure tested with the ZZP vs stock gm endplate. Verified that the ZZP was in fact leaking.

 

[r3drckt]

If you didn't check before installing the ZZP endplate, the bore the oring sits in on the endplate. The first endplate I received from ZZP was a bad casting right in the o-ring sealing surfaces. Leaked like a sieve, draining my resevoir into the manifold from only the pressure of gravity.
Took everything off and the manifold out of the car, pressure tested with the ZZP vs stock gm endplate. Verified that the ZZP was in fact leaking.

I bought mine over a year ago when I bought everything for the engine build (took my time with the build unfortunately) so if it's a bad casting, I may have to pop for another. We'll see. Didn't think to pressure test the end plate when it's off, what'd you use to do that?

 

[Waterdriver]

McGyver'd. Lol
Short piece of coolant hose attached to Prestone radiator flush adapter I had. Capped one end off.
Connected that to one of the endplate nipples.
Connected the garden hose to the Prestone adapter.
Let the intercooler system fill with water and capped the other endplate nipple with my hand.
You could hear it immediately spraying water into the manifold.
And without any water pressure the existing water in the system was still leaking into manifold.

 

[r3drckt]

Currently doing a pressure test on my intake. During disassembly, I found what looks like coolant between my throttle body and the adapter plate, and also between the adapter plate and the manifold.

Makes me believe my leak isn’t my laminova cores but possibly my turbo since it has a coolant line.

Reinforcing the above, during the pressure test, I have my hose going through the middle port on the end plate and I’m working through the 2 end ports (both open, then block one, then block the other 1 at a time). Hose on full blast is pretty strong flow so I’d expect it to leak if it was the cores and I’m not seeing the little puddle reform in the manifold like there was when I first removed it.

 

[r3drckt]

Ran it through in these configurations as well. Still no puddle inside. It has to be my turbo leaking. Nothing else could get coolant in the intake since these cores aren’t leaking.

 

[Waterdriver]

If you haven't already, block off the other endplate port then turn on the water? Water pressure from the hose should be about 45psi.

 

[r3drckt]

If you haven't already, block off the other endplate port then turn on the water? Water pressure from the hose should be about 45psi.

I’ll retry today. I originally had them both plugged and fed through the middle, went to turn on the hose and it ended up blowing one of the caps off so I’ll have to get a second set of hands to hold them while I turn on the water