V1 r3drckt - extended track - 06 SS/SC G85

[Gtstorey]

If you haven't already, block off the other endplate port then turn on the water? Water pressure from the hose should be about 45psi.

Well, water pressure could be anywhere from about 20 to 70 psi (anymore and you should have a pressure reducing valve "PRV"). A lot of people that have higher pressure available will put an outside spigot before a PRV so it might have even more, or you might have a failing PRV. In Florida, it's doubtful you will find much more than about 70psi.

 

[r3drckt]

If you haven't already, block off the other endplate port then turn on the water? Water pressure from the hose should be about 45psi.

Thank you for the advise. Blocked both ports and fed water full blast through the end laminova and had a little puddle form inside the manifold after about 15-20 minutes.

I’ll pull the cores back out and inspect the endplate and o-rings. If everything looks good, I’ll reassemble and pressure test again. If it still leaks then I might say f*ck it and get the OTTP LSJ turbo intake and an external A2W like the LNF configuration from DF

 

[r3drckt]

During disassembly and adding the dual pass end plate, I didn’t have the recommended worm clamps to pull the cores. I used a rag and some channel locks to grip and twist them loose, but 3 of my cores have little teeth marks in them (gripped to hard? Not enough padding?). The gouges didn’t look bad and I hit them with a light sanding, but it appears the gouges are too deep.

With that said, I need 3 new cores. But I’m sure I’ll have to find a used LSJ intake manifold assembly with cores. If anyone has a spare from a second donor, or finds one locally, please shoot me a PM.

Second option if I can’t source one is to buy the OTTP LSJ intake manifold and an external A2W cooler like the LNF goblin kit comes with and route the intake accordingly.

Potentially third option? Would be to fit the LNF intake as I can find those for around $80 it looks like and get the plumbing for it through DF.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Use some JB Weld to fill the indents, let it cure for couple days, and then sand it down smooth. This should last for a while if the cores cannot procured in a timely fashion.

Keep in mind the LNF manifold has a raised lip on the bottom of the intake runners to clear DFI injection that is fitted into the head below the intake manifold flange. You may still be able to procure a LDK bare intake manifold from ZZP for $30 if they still have them. Identical to the LNF manifold and brand new.

 

[Ross]

ZZP still has the $30 manifold, and FrozenBoost Intercoolers, Inc. has external intercoolers and piping. Still need some adapter to connect the pipe to the manifold.

ZZP also has a $350 intake option.

 

[Waterdriver]

During disassembly and adding the dual pass end plate, I didn’t have the recommended worm clamps to pull the cores. I used a rag and some channel locks to grip and twist them loose, but 3 of my cores have little teeth marks in them (gripped to hard? Not enough padding?). The gouges didn’t look bad and I hit them with a light sanding, but it appears the gouges are too deep.

View attachment 34666View attachment 34667View attachment 34668

With that said, I need 3 new cores. But I’m sure I’ll have to find a used LSJ intake manifold assembly with cores. If anyone has a spare from a second donor, or finds one locally, please shoot me a PM.

Second option if I can’t source one is to buy the OTTP LSJ intake manifold and an external A2W cooler like the LNF goblin kit comes with and route the intake accordingly.

Potentially third option? Would be to fit the LNF intake as I can find those for around $80 it looks like and get the plumbing for it through DF.

That's your smoking gun! As little as though gouges are, the o-ring is unable to fill those gouges.

There's your smoking gun. I think they're repairable. Like 'Sqwatch mentioned, JB Weld. Such an awesome product.
Just take off any sharp edges of the gouges that would protrude towards the o-ring. Dremel, small fine hand files.
Clean the gouges really well for a good bond. You want to get that antifreeze out of there. Lacquer thinner or brake cleaner.
Mix up a little batch of JB Weld and press it into the gouges only with say a toothpick. Wipe any off that isn't in the gouge before it cures.
Heat will help the JBWeld flow into the gouges better as it becomes a bit runnier when real warm. It also cures faster, so be aware of that.
Let it cure well.
Smooth out and remove any high spots.

 

[r3drckt]

Alright update time!

After multiple attempts to repair the laminova core ends, I gave up. They just kept leaking once the vacuum of the intake started with the coolant pump running. So I pulled the cores out and tossed them in the trash. Capped my dual pass endplate with 3 caps and worm clamps.

In place of the laminova cores, I grabbed a Type-16 water to air cooler from FrozenBoost. Some t-bolt clamps, 2.25” joiner and 45 degree silicon bends and I now have a cooler in line between the turbo and throttle body.

Since the cooler is so high, I will have to find a permanent solution to hold the option B tank even higher. Right now it’s just zip tied up high for testing purposes.

Need to grab a 3/4” joiner/coupler in the morning to secure the outlet side of the hose. Also need to run a hose from the inlet down to the intercooler pump. Then I can fill it with coolant, pray for no leaks and that it solved my stalling issue I was having originally.

If I still have a coolant leak after all this, I’m gonna pull my head and replace the head gasket. It’s the only other place coolant could be burning from (though that engine coolant loop hasn’t been dropping coolant level, only the intercooler side has been).

Almost forgot! Switched the long intake tube from the ZZP kit to the small one from DF. Need to move my MAF sensor over, but i need to plug the small hole next to the MAF for what I’m assuming was the hole for a vacuum port. Any ideas on how to seal it?

 

[Ross]

I put a piece of aluminum HVAC tape over the extra hole in the aluminum intake tube. Blends in pretty well.

 

[r3drckt]

Motivation on this build is quickly waning after stripping my manifold of the laminova cores and capping it off, spending $300 for the external cooler, clamps, silicon elbows, coolant, etc….. I am STILL burning something. I’m starting to think it isn’t coolant and I’m worried it’s my head gasket or piston rings my intercooler coolant was dropping before which is why I assumed it was coolant. After converting to an external cooler, I’m thinking it’s something worse.

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[Gtstorey]

I’ve heard good things about the head gasket testers that check for combustion gasses in the coolant system, but I haven’t ever used them myself.

 

[r3drckt]

My next course of action will be removing the turbo and running the engine without the turbo at idle (since the smoke started right away this time when the engine was cooler). If there’s still smoke then I know it’s not the turbo leaking coolant or oil into the intake (which was my first assumption before messing with the laminova cores). However, if the smoke goes away, then I know it’s the turbo and I can send it in to ZZP under warranty (sadly, I hope this is the resolution) and get it repaired.

 

[r3drckt]

Started to take off the turbo, while removing the intake tube and filter, I found a small puddle of oil in the turbine housing.

Since the valve cover port goes right to this spot on the turbine, I’m curious if the turbo is sucking in oil from the valve cover. Ordered a catch can and should be in tomorrow. I’ll connect it and then run the engine to see if that stops the oil burn. If there’s still oil in the turbine afterwards then I think it’s safe to say my turbo is leaking oil into the intake and I’m going to send it in to ZZP

 

[Rttoys]

It’s possible, especially if you are running higher boost

 

[SmsDetroit]

Is the baffling still in place inside the valve cover? If it’s missing under that port it can also cause oil to get sucked up

 

[r3drckt]

Baffling is still in place, didn’t remove anything. I am running hire boost, but you can see it’s billowing smoke sitting at idle under vacuum so not sure.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Believe you have just the 1 valve cover port on the LSJ? It should be under vacuum all the time, which as you know keeps crankcase pressure from trying to blow up the engine (or least blowing the dipstick out). Yes, putting a 2 port non-vented catch can (a vent would defeat the purpose of pulling vacuum) in between the valve cover and the turbo would definitely help any oil draw from the valve cover port. I would hate to see your new turbo is actually leaking oil, but this would definitely help check to see if this is the case or not.

 

[r3drckt]

Believe you have just the 1 valve cover port on the LSJ? It should be under vacuum all the time, which as you know keeps crankcase pressure from trying to blow up the engine (or least blowing the dipstick out). Yes, putting a 2 port non-vented catch can (a vent would defeat the purpose of pulling vacuum) in between the valve cover and the turbo would definitely help any oil draw from the valve cover port. I would hate to see your new turbo is actually leaking oil, but this would definitely help check to see if this is the case or not.

Correct, only 1 port on the valve cover and yes it's under vacuum all the time. I was just referring to whether or not the car is in boost or not because high boost increases crankcase pressure which usually is when excess oil is pushed out of that hole.

Some forums said to cap the port on the turbo and only run the valve cover port to the inlet on a vented catch can (cap the exit port). Thoughts?

 

[Rauq]

On an LSJ, if you have your valve cover port piped to your intake manifold, at low throttle (vacuum in intake manifold), air is flowing into the motor through the valve cover port:
intake air filter -> intake tube -> valve cover port -> crankcase -> PCV valve (between intake manifold and cylinder head) -> intake manifold -> burned in the cylinder

At medium-high throttle (ambient or positive pressure in intake manifold (boost)), the flow reverses:
crankcase fumes/pressure -> valve cover port -> intake tube, then eventually into the cylinder

If you put a catch can on the valve cover port, 90% of the time air is going to be flowing through it backwards. One of the biggest reasons to not just put a filter on the valve cover port is it theoretically pulls unmetered air into the intake through the PCV valve, but mine's set up that way and I haven't had an issue with it. No tune issues and no oil dripping off the filter. I'd cap the port on the turbo and throw a filter on the valve cover port.

 

[r3drckt]

Oil catch can connected, ensured the intake turbine housing was free of all residual oil, connected the intake back up and started the car. Minimal smoke (assuming residual oil) to start, after about 20-30 seconds though it started billowing smoke again. Let it idle for 10 minutes so it got up to temp and gave plenty of time for any oil to fill in the catch can.

Not too surprised, but the catch can was empty. Waiting for it to cool down before I remove the intake filter again and check for oil in the turbine housing. I’m pretty sure there will be some unfortunately. Monday will call ZZP for RMA.

 

[JBINTX]

on the turbine housing block, why is the top oil port plugged?
On the LNF, it has a line to it.