V1 Riley's Full Cage Goblin -07 SS/TC F23 #457

[Rauq]

You should link to your build thread in your signature. There's a link on how to do that in my signature. I followed you back here from ToothMagician's build thread, I knew we'd chatted recently but couldn't remember where. Good luck on your first start! Did you say you're getting tuning support from ZZP? And you have their fuel pump and 80# injectors?

 

[newbtrying]

You should link to your build thread in your signature. There's a link on how to do that in my signature. I followed you back here from ToothMagician's build thread, I knew we'd chatted recently but couldn't remember where. Good luck on your first start! Did you say you're getting tuning support from ZZP? And you have their fuel pump and 80# injectors?

Thanks, I got that linked in my signature now. Yes, I've already got a tune from ZZP wrote to my ECM (forgive me if I use the wrong terms, this computer stuff isn't my strong suit). I purchased HP Tuners and 2 credits through ZZP and they gave me step-by-step instructions on how to save my original tune, write a new one, and record data to then send back to the tuner. after a few back and forths, my tune should be completed. Though, since it will be a while before my Goblin is on the road, it will be a while before I get to that point in my tune.

My build definitely needed a tune though. I took a stock LSJ and rebuilt the engine entirely, putting in new K1 Rods, 10.5:1 RaceTech pistons, ZZP zero balance shafts, new timing chain and guides, titanium keepers and caps, new sodium-filled valves (LSJ comes stock with these), 82# valve springs, 80# injectors, AEM 340 LPH E85 compatible Fuel pump (though, I won't be tuning for E85 because of my move to Montana. They don't sell any), and a Z57 turbo. My Goblin started just fine at the first start stage, but runs EXTREMELY rich. new tune should have helped, but I'll be starting it again this evening to find out. The tuner mentioned that a boost reference fuel pressure system may benefit me and my build, but I'm going to avoid that unless the tuner hits a wall and it needs done.

On that note, if anyone runs a BRFPS, I'd like to know which one you have and how you set it up. My fuel lines are stock LSJ coming from the fuel pump (two plastic lines) and a single AN6 hose leaving the filter to connect to the fuel rail. It's my understanding that I'd have to alter the fuel pump I currently have to have only 1 line leaving the fuel tank to go into the BRFPS, followed by 1 line to go to my fuel rail. I'm not exactly sure how that modification would go.

 

[Rauq]

I'll leave it to the actual tuning experts to see if they can get things sorted without an external regulator.

The stock setup goes from the pump into a filter and then from the filter to both the in-tank regulator through the return line and to the fuel rail. Pressure above the regulator pressure (58psi) dumps back into the bucket through the return line. I think the setup ZZP sells is still deadheaded, but the regulator is external and pressure referenced. In that setup, it would go pump -> filter -> regulator -> (fuel rail + return).

Fortunately in a Goblin everything is accessible, and the most difficult part of a BRFPS install in a Cobalt (dropping the fuel tank to access the fuel pump module) is very easy for us. The rail can also be converted to a flow-through system which I've read is preferable for big power, but then again I've not done A/B testing so who knows. That ventures into more of a DIY system... but I did mine so how hard can it be.

 

[newbtrying]

Today I started up the goblin again after writing the first tune from ZZP to the Goblin. Now she idles a lot better and is running (a lot) less rich. Here's the video of me recording data on HP Tuners to then send back to ZZP. Before starting the video, I'd Idled the car for a few minutes to get it warmed up. During that time, it had a nice, even idle. Once I started playing with the throttle, it got a bit choppy.

At this point, I'm not going to be able to get road data until after I'm moved and settled into Montana, so I'll be falling off here for a while. My wife is currently in the hospital with her best friend, being admitted because it looks like we are having a baby tonight... exciting and terrifying.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Go Daddy Go! Meet your new bundle of joy and tell your wife you love her! Start building those brownie points, you will need them!

 

[ToothMagician]

Today I started up the goblin again after writing the first tune from ZZP to the Goblin. Now she idles a lot better and is running (a lot) less rich. Here's the video of me recording data on HP Tuners to then send back to ZZP. Before starting the video, I'd Idled the car for a few minutes to get it warmed up. During that time, it had a nice, even idle. Once I started playing with the throttle, it got a bit choppy.

At this point, I'm not going to be able to get road data until after I'm moved and settled into Montana, so I'll be falling off here for a while. My wife is currently in the hospital with her best friend, being admitted because it looks like we are having a baby tonight... exciting and terrifying.

BIG CONGRATS!!! If your tune came back good, tells me mine might be a bad sensor. Thanks

 

[newbtrying]

Today I did about 5 minutes of work on the Goblin and about an hour of work on the trailer I'm hauling the goblin across the U.S. in.

Rear Trans mount bolted right into place without any fuss. I just had to locate the donor bolts needed to do so, and pick up some washers at the hardware store since my hardware baggy only came with 1 of 3 needed. Before I load up the car on the trailer, I wanted to get at least one trans mount secured, which I've done now.

Front trans mount is still not aligned. (see past posts about this.) I have not removed it to see If I put it on backward or flipped around in some way, but in my mind it can only fit in one orientation. I still suspect that I got a defective mount or something. I'll finish troubleshooting this in Montana in a few months. Perhaps I'll have to fab up my own front trans mount... which wouldn't be that hard, really.

My first baby was born 9 days ago and I've never had less sleep. between packing for the move, feeding the baby, changing diapers, consoling a hormone-stricken wife, and working, I've never had less free time. But this is ok. One day I'll get wheels on the goblin, but it won't be soon.

Here's some photos from this short bit of progress:

got my toolbox, engine stand, hydraulic press, and engine hoist strapped to the front of the trailer. The 2x4s will be used to support 2 4x8 sheets of plywood to create a loft of sorts for more junk storage of things that can't be shipped with the movers. Goblin goes underneath, obviously. This 8.5x14' trailer was a great investment (I think) because I'll be able to work on the goblin inside of the trailer with room to spare, regardless of what state I'm in at the time.

Here's the rear trans mount bolted up. Fit perfectly. front trans mount is still not even close to the correct fitment. I'll be calling DF about this.
The orange ratchet strap is only holding a dolly under the subframe so I can wheel the car into my trailer when I'm ready.

 

[Rauq]

Congrats!


There's no chance you can flip the mount bottom to top and then front to back, right? The only thing harder to visualize is to recollect the issue I had. Just wanted to make sure you're not facing the same silliness I was.

 

[ah.b.normal]

Ok, so a few moments ago, I fired up the Goblin. Because this was the first start after an engine rebuild, before I installed the fuel hose, I disconnected the fuel pump and turned the engine over using the starter for a few rounds that each lasted about 5 seconds. Once I found oil in the oil filter housing, I decided the oil pump was primed and it was time.

I connected the fuel rail and fuel filter with a short stretch of AN6 hose and threw on the Bluetooth OBD2 reader to immediately find that the power light on it did not turn on... Ok, problems already... A quick fix with a spare piece of wire from the battery terminal to the power pin (pin 16 red/white stripe) solved that Issue and I got my phone connected. Everything that I could read live seemed to be showing real data, so I hope that this was the only wiring mistake I made. I think I'll route that jumper wire in a clean way and make it a permanent feature unless you guys have a better idea.
View attachment 46149

Once I got my reader running, I turned the key, heard the fuel pump prime, and started the car. The engine only turned over about 3 times and roared to life, albeit, roughly. After some coughs and sputters and a bit of help from the throttle, the car idled strongly around 1000 RPM. I saw the temperature reach about 140 degrees after a few minutes of observing at Idle... **see note below** and then held the throttle to produce about 2000 RPM until the engine coolant temp hit 170-180. Here, at the 9 minute 30 second mark, I let off the throttle to again take a look around the car, but when I let my foot off the throttle, the engine sputtered out. I tried to restart it and it didn't want to fire up unless I gave it some throttle. At this point, I didn't push things further and am letting it cool while I make this update. I'm not too concerned because I made so many big changes that it needs tuned BADLY, but I can't say I'm not concerned. Total run time was around 9.5 minutes and I've got the data log to share:

click on the Reddit links to see first start idle and data log in real time.

https://www.reddit.com/r/dfgoblin/comments/1be83nw

https://www.reddit.com/r/dfgoblin/comments/1be89iq

Pics of different point at first startup. time correlates with time ran:

View attachment 46115
View attachment 46116
View attachment 46117


Also, I noticed the coolant level didn't drop much while running. I did follow the video procedure on YouTube for filling coolant so wasn't concerned much. After things cooled off, I popped the coolant hose off the passenger side and the head was bone dry. I added about 3/4 gallon of water using a piece of spare hose to the head... which I didn't find too amusing. *edit* I’m showing my inexperience… of course the YouTube didn’t show filling the engine with coolant because they didn’t do a full tear down and rebuild.* So, could this have caused damage?? Give it to me straight, although I fear your answers. I feel sick that I put faith in the coolant temp number in front of my face, to find out that there's basically no coolant in my engine. ugh.



*** note *** ...at which point I saw a small puddle under the bell housing/flywheel area of clean engine oil on my floor. this had to have leaked out pretty quickly and then abated because I wiped it up and only saw a couple drops on the wiped floor after 8 minutes-ish more of idle/ 2000 RPM (9 min 30 sec mark in vid). Thoughts? blowby around rings pushing oil around rear main seal until things seated right? I'm stumped and mildly concerned. I reused the original flywheel bolts, so could oil leak around those threads? is that even a thing? any input welcome.

I'd say. 9 min, no coolant, its probably fine, don't do that again. Unless you asked for/bought a 195* stat, the spec units generally open at 218*.

 

[newbtrying]

Congrats!


There's no chance you can flip the mount bottom to top and then front to back, right? The only thing harder to visualize is to recollect the issue I had. Just wanted to make sure you're not facing the same silliness I was.

BTW I flipped the front trans mount today and you were correct: perfect fit.

Update on Goblin Progress:

I've completed my move to MT since my last post. I'm settled in here, my baby is now growing like a weed and is over 2 months old, and I'm eager to get back to work on completing the Goblin. I've sent an email to DF Kit Car to refresh my mind on what it will cost to get stage 2 and 3 sent out, but haven't heard back after a couple weeks. I'll call them to force a response later.

Yesterday, I got the pleasure of purchasing a SunCoast 68RFE to replace the stock 68RFE trans in my -15 cummins that I burnt up on the 2,000+ mile trip from KY to MT while pulling a cargo trailer loaded with the Goblin and tons of household items for the move... All that to say: I'm put behind again on completing the car while I save up for a new house. Maybe I'll get stage 2/3 and complete the car over this winter in time to drive next year.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Congrats on the safe move. Getting the family settled in is top priority. The Goblin will remain parked exactly where you left it! Mine hasn't moved from its designated spot in almost 4 years on it's own , so I promise it will still be there!

 

[newbtrying]

It's been over a year, and I'm diving back into this project. I have a few odds and ends to work on the car while I wait for stages 2 and 3 to come in (just ordered them today). One is fabricating a cold air intake bracket. Another is to get some coolant hoses tied up and out of the way from the engine, and the last one is to dust everything off and sort out all my parts so I know what I'm working with.

I spent... weeks... reading through the forums to try and decide on wheel/tire make and size. Wow, that is a rabbit hole. I finally decided to order Konig Hypergram wheels with 5x114.3 bolt pattern (and updated my order through DF to include the appropriate hubs). The size I went for was a bit on the wider side since I've got this car built out for more horsepower than some. I chose 17x9 +25ET wheels and 255/40R17 Falken Azenis 615K+. I chose this combo for a few reasons: I like the look, the weight is good, and I already have a love of Falken tires because that is what I run on my other vehicles. Also, I was sick of nerding out in the never-ending spiral of, "What is lightest, what is cheapest, what looks the best, what will actually fit, how wide is too wide," etc... Bottom line, I like the look, and the performance should be good. I think fitment should be ok. There is another guy on here that I found running the same size tire and wheel (and make/model) but with a +35 offset and 1" spacer on the back wheels. If needed, it's not the end of the world if I have to run a small spacer.

BTW, I ordered these from TireRack. I paid hundreds less than the best quote from local tire shops, and they came mounted and balanced (which surprised me). If you want to order specific tires/wheels that are not the typical fitment for your vehicle (which you have to input year, make, model on the website and can only choose from listed compatible size options), just email their support or use their live chat function on the website to get the exact thing you want ordered. I used the live chat on the website and had my order placed in minutes. I don't work there, I don't benefit from this good review, but my experience was good, so I'm sharing that.

Ordering Stages 2 and 3 was easy, even after such a long hiatus. I just emailed the support line and Adam replied back. We went over my build specs, reevaluated the options I selected, and then got and paid the invoice. Since I ordered a button panel, Adam asked me if I had a late or early model -07 since the wiring differs between the two. He instructed me on how to tell the difference (it's easily differentiated by if you have a 3 or 4 spoke steering wheel), and we got the right part ordered. Now I hurry and wait for stages 2 and 3 to arrive.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Welcome back. Sounds like you are settled in and life is returning to a new normal? Remember we are here to help.

 

[newbtrying]

Stage 2 and 3 parts have arrived - A while ago, actually. I'm trying to arrange for a Canadian friend to come visit for a week so we can put everything together, together. It'd be fun, but the logistics are proving difficult. I've delayed a bit for this possibility, but have tried to tie up some loose ends so everything can be bolted together just like that if he's able to visit.

First notable thing from the arrival of the other stages is the huge hole from shipping in the side of my Corbeau box, which was concerning. I opened it up to inspect the contents, and everything seems present and undamaged.

The next item of interest was to paint some of the miscellaneous parts/brackets I now have. These included the seat mounts and headlight mounts, as well as all four brake calipers that came in this latest shipment. At first, I planned on spraying these down with a primer followed by an enamel that closely matches the Illusion Cherry powder coat on my chassis. It's so cold here and my shop is unheated (for now), so painting these parts had it's challenges. This allowed me to go down the rabbit hole of DIY powder coating. So, that's where I am at now.

I ordered a vevor powder coating system/gun, and 2 pounds of illusion cherry powder and 2 pounds of the clear vision powder that this illusion color requires. I'll powder coat all of these parts previously mentioned, plus all four coil springs... since i'm at it. My wife's going to be really happy when i bake these in the oven in our house.

The coil springs that came with the coilovers are already powder coated, so i have to strip the coating before I can recoat them in my fancy red color scheme. For this, I have some StripPaint 9900 coming in the mail. basically, you dilute this stuff 50/50 with water, heat it up to some temp, and let the part sit for a bit and the powder coat should just fall off. I'll repurpose my turkey frying kit (which was great at thanksgiving BTW) to heat this up and drop the springs in so i can start fresh. For the rest of the parts, I'll sandblast them and they'll basically be ready. I will have to disassemble the calipers, tape some areas off, coat them, and reassemble when done.

In my spare time, I also made a bracket for my intake that mounts to the top of the rear strut mount. This was fairly simple, first I made a cardboard template. Then I attempted to find a friend with a metal bending break... and failed.. I went the alternative route of scoring my joints with a cutoff wheel, bending the angle needed in a vice with a big hammer, and welded up this joint when done. Now I have a perfectly fitting bracket that I'll powder coat to match the chassis.

Going to be gone for a week toward the end of this month, so it may be February before this all get's completed, and all the components arrive in the mail. It seems like i'm always waiting on shipping for something.

 

[Rttoys]

.


I ordered a vevor powder coating system/gun, and 2 pounds of illusion cherry powder and 2 pounds of the clear vision powder that this illusion color requires. I'll powder coat all of these parts previously mentioned, plus all four coil springs... since i'm at it. My wife's going to be really happy when i bake these in the oven in our house.

other than pissing off the wife, I don’t think you are supposed to do that.

from a search

Yes, you can powder coat in a residential oven for small projects, but it requires modifying the oven for safety and performance (removing controls/insulation, ensuring proper ventilation) or dedicating a separate, often converted, used oven to prevent food contamination and handle the required heat (around 350-400°F for 10-20 mins) for proper powder curing, using a laser thermometer to confirm part temperature. It's crucial for the object to fit inside and for the oven to maintain consistent, adequate heat for a durable finish, though a dedicated, professional oven is best for larger or frequent jobs, as a home oven's components can be damaged by powder overspray and heat, say experts.

Key Considerations for Using a Home Oven:

• Safety First: Never use your kitchen oven for powder coating if you plan to cook food in it again; overspray is hard to remove and can be hazardous. A dedicated, old oven is ideal.

 

[newbtrying]

other than pissing off the wife, I don’t think you are supposed to do that.

from a search

Yes, you can powder coat in a residential oven for small projects, but it requires modifying the oven for safety and performance (removing controls/insulation, ensuring proper ventilation) or dedicating a separate, often converted, used oven to prevent food contamination and handle the required heat (around 350-400°F for 10-20 mins) for proper powder curing, using a laser thermometer to confirm part temperature. It's crucial for the object to fit inside and for the oven to maintain consistent, adequate heat for a durable finish, though a dedicated, professional oven is best for larger or frequent jobs, as a home oven's components can be damaged by powder overspray and heat, say experts.

Key Considerations for Using a Home Oven:

• Safety First: Never use your kitchen oven for powder coating if you plan to cook food in it again; overspray is hard to remove and can be hazardous. A dedicated, old oven is ideal.

I really do appreciate the concern, but it's not going to be the first time i've brought the shop to the kitchen (like when i washed my whole engine block in the dishwasher...)

Is experts Grok or Chat GPT? That expert data sounds AI generated. You do not have to modify an oven to bake powder coated parts. And you certainly don't get overspray in the oven... I'll be spraying the parts in a booth and taking them to the oven only to cure.

I might watch for a local free oven, but i'll definitely not lose sleep over a little extra microplastics in the testicles.

 

[Rttoys]

The text was from a quick ai search, but it’s discussed here and there on other forums I’m on, for many years. Looking at Talon’s spray booth and oven, there’s a lot of residual powder here and there, that never bakes. When we moved his shop, that mess was everywhere. I know that’s on a larger scale, but it’s something to be aware of. There’s the other possibility of the toxins from the powder staying in the oven, too. I’m just making sure you don’t end up in the doghouse.

 

[Stretch2126]

It's been over a year, and I'm diving back into this project. I have a few odds and ends to work on the car while I wait for stages 2 and 3 to come in (just ordered them today). One is fabricating a cold air intake bracket. Another is to get some coolant hoses tied up and out of the way from the engine, and the last one is to dust everything off and sort out all my parts so I know what I'm working with.

I spent... weeks... reading through the forums to try and decide on wheel/tire make and size. Wow, that is a rabbit hole. I finally decided to order Konig Hypergram wheels with 5x114.3 bolt pattern (and updated my order through DF to include the appropriate hubs). The size I went for was a bit on the wider side since I've got this car built out for more horsepower than some. I chose 17x9 +25ET wheels and 255/40R17 Falken Azenis 615K+. I chose this combo for a few reasons: I like the look, the weight is good, and I already have a love of Falken tires because that is what I run on my other vehicles. Also, I was sick of nerding out in the never-ending spiral of, "What is lightest, what is cheapest, what looks the best, what will actually fit, how wide is too wide," etc... Bottom line, I like the look, and the performance should be good. I think fitment should be ok. There is another guy on here that I found running the same size tire and wheel (and make/model) but with a +35 offset and 1" spacer on the back wheels. If needed, it's not the end of the world if I have to run a small spacer.

BTW, I ordered these from TireRack. I paid hundreds less than the best quote from local tire shops, and they came mounted and balanced (which surprised me). If you want to order specific tires/wheels that are not the typical fitment for your vehicle (which you have to input year, make, model on the website and can only choose from listed compatible size options), just email their support or use their live chat function on the website to get the exact thing you want ordered. I used the live chat on the website and had my order placed in minutes. I don't work there, I don't benefit from this good review, but my experience was good, so I'm sharing that.

View attachment 54403

Ordering Stages 2 and 3 was easy, even after such a long hiatus. I just emailed the support line and Adam replied back. We went over my build specs, reevaluated the options I selected, and then got and paid the invoice. Since I ordered a button panel, Adam asked me if I had a late or early model -07 since the wiring differs between the two. He instructed me on how to tell the difference (it's easily differentiated by if you have a 3 or 4 spoke steering wheel), and we got the right part ordered. Now I hurry and wait for stages 2 and 3 to arrive.

Just for relief you won’t need spacers with the 25mm offset as long as you run the BC setup in the rear. 17s are perfect for ride height on the street.

 

[newbtrying]

Yesterday I finished wiring up my garage heater, so today I spent a bunch of time in there enjoying the newfound warmth.
First thing I did was sandblast my parts for powder coating (seat brackets, headlight mounts, air intake mount.

Next, I disassembled the brake calipers I purchased from DF. I’m going to sandblast these tomorrow and powder coat them as well.

The final thing I did was strip the powder coat off of the coil springs that I bought from DF so that I could re-coat them in illusion cherry like the rest of my car. For the stripper, I used StripPaint 9900 (1 gallon) and brought it up to 180 degrees on a propane turkey fryer. It took about 20 minutes for the old powder coat to fall right off.

 

[newbtrying]

Today was a long day of powder coating. This is the first time I’ve ever done this, and the results were great. Better than I expected, honestly. I was using Prismatic Illusion Cherry powder and a Vevor powder coating system. I planned to do all my parts today, but it went a lot slower than expected, so I got to all four coil springs (engraved an F on the front springs so I could put them where they belong after I get them all mixed up.), also did the headlight mounts, my custom air intake mount, and all four seat brackets. Tomorrow will be all four calipers.

yes, the ground is removed, but i'd just finished spraying this part.

here's what the springs looked like in my oven when the one on the right (placed in the preheated oven first) began to gel from the top down.


I set the gun up on 15 psi from my compressor regulator and then turned the gun air down to about half that on the gun regulator. For the base coat, I sprayed the powder on 50 kV and it went great. I flash cured the parts using my home oven set at 375. Once the powder gelled out I counted 5 minutes and pulled the parts out. Then I let them cool and sprayed the clear coat on the same air pressure and 30 kV. Unfortunately the clear coat didn’t stick to my parts anywhere near as well as the base coat, but it did good enough. Once that was done, I repeated baking the parts in the home oven. This time I set it to 390. Once the clear coat gelled, I set a 20 minute timer and pulled the parts when it went off.

These springs are flash cured and the one on the left is sprayed with the clear coat.

halfway through the clear coat cure.

My flash made some of the seat mounts look funky, but the color is very even.