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V1 Riley's Full Cage Goblin -07 SS/TC F23 #457

Ross
I ran my brake lines under the A arm hiem joint, which gives it a bit shorter run.
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newbtrying
Trying to work on the car today, the axles are supposed to arrive any minute now. I'm focusing on some other odds and ends before they show up.

Anyway, I cannot for the life of me find any instructions on mounting the heat exchanger or how the white PVC lines are supposed to lay in the tunnel, etc... can anyone link that section of the forum or youtube video?
 
comegetjoe
Trying to work on the car today, the axles are supposed to arrive any minute now. I'm focusing on some other odds and ends before they show up.

Anyway, I cannot for the life of me find any instructions on mounting the heat exchanger or how the white PVC lines are supposed to lay in the tunnel, etc... can anyone link that section of the forum or youtube video?

I dont believe there is a video for that. I have a few pages if you thumbs through my build on how the heat exchanger mounts, how I put the lines in my tunnel. Really its how it fits.
I did harness on the right side, pvc lines on the left iirc. (I dont have access to my car atm)
 
newbtrying
I dont believe there is a video for that. I have a few pages if you thumbs through my build on how the heat exchanger mounts, how I put the lines in my tunnel. Really its how it fits.
I did harness on the right side, pvc lines on the left iirc. (I dont have access to my car atm)
I’ll take a look in the AM. Thanks!
 
newbtrying
Tonight I got my axles from ZZP. Again, these are the 2005-2010 2.2/2.4 cobalt 4340 axles. They popped right in and were compatible with my non-TC (33 spline) hubs and LSJ knuckles, naturally.

With the axles in, I got the rear hubs, toe links and rear coil overs installed. I had misplaced the 4 bolts for the 2 coil over to knuckle attachments and bought replacement bolts, but of course I got some that are about 1/4” too short, so I’ll get longer ones in the AM from the local Ace hardware. Otherwise, everything is torqued to spec.

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I also hooked up the rear brake lines and moved the front brake line to caliper attachment so the line goes below the upper control arm. This l means I can now work on bleeding the brakes and clutch tomorrow with my pressure bleeding system.

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I did not iron out the heat exchanger plumbing yet, but I did get it mounted up front with the fan installed. One thing I don’t understand is I have 4 plastic 90 degree elbows that have threads on one end and barb on the other. I used two to screw into the heat exchanger itself, but the other two go…. I have no idea where. I am thinking the formed hose (s shaped) needs cut so I have 2 90 degree hoses to come off of the heat exchanger elbows to the PVC tubes in the tunnel, but I wasn’t so confident to I’ll have to tinker to figure out how the other end attached to the pump and inter. The kit came with a few feet of straight tubing, so I’ve gotta figure out where that comes into play.

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These are the leftover (since i am not done installing it) parts from the heat exchanger kit. It seems that I had 2 extra plastic 90s that I do not need. Currently i think i need to cut the formed hose in the middle to make 2 90s for the heat exchanger to PVC connection. The longer hose... I'm not sure where that is needed yet.

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Here is the underside of the heat exchanger as I have it mounted. I think I need to move my power cable and brake booster line so that it is routed over the top of the steering rack. Right now it is sandwiched between the steering rack and heat exchanger.

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Reading other posts, it seems there is an issue with the car turning off when you turn the key off once I hook up this heat exchanger fan. I saw a post I bookmarked with an easy fix for this during the wiring process that I'll check out and apply when I wire this in.


Tomorrow I hope to also tackle the shift linkage connections to the transmission. I’ll have to study the forum on how to tackle that before I get into it.

I threw the wheels on the car today just because I was curious how much work the alignment would be… it looks like it’s not too great as is right now oh well. Another project to tackle on another day.

Tomorrow I’ll add some more detailed photos in about some of these things I just discussed. *edit made*
 
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Rttoys
With the axles in, I got the rear hubs, toe links and rear coil overs installed. I had misplaced the 4 bolts for the 2 coil over to knuckle attachments and bought replacement bolts, but of course I got some that are about 1/4” too short, so I’ll get longer ones in the AM from the local Ace hardware. Otherwise, everything is torqued to spec.

talking about the rear strut bolts or front coil over shocks?

here’s the part numbers for the rear strut bolts
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newbtrying
I updated photos on my last big progress post. Please take a look at them.

A few things to ask: the two extra 90 degree plastic elbows in the pic with my remaining pieces for the heat exchanger... this is an anomaly, right? I do not need them? Also, the tubing in the photo (photo with blue towel and leftover HE components laid out): I cut the formed hose for the heat exchanger to pvc connection, correct? I'd like confirmation before I cut because uncutting is hard. What about the longer hose in the photo, is that to connect the PVC to the inlet of the pump? How did you guys get the hose connection from PVC to pump inlet to make that 90 degree turn without kinking?

Also, it looks like i'll have to run my power cable and brake booster line over the top of the steering rack. right now these are sandwiched between my heat exchanger and steering rack.
 
newbtrying
Short shop day this morning.

I have still not finished the heat exchanger because I've ran into a bigger issue to address first.

Good news is the brakes are bled successfully.

Bad news is... I have a big brake fluid leak coming out from between the engine and transmission. RIP. I'll have to pull the trans to investigate what is wrong with the clutch slave cylinder. dang. That really pulled the air out of my sails tbh.

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I guess I'll be dropping the subframe and separating the engine and transmission for this job.

Enjoy these photos of me bleeding the brakes/clutch by myself

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Robinjo
I concur with Rttoys, that silver block on top like to hold two rubber nipples and just be a pain. The throw out bearing inside the trans can give issues to.
 
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