V1 Riley's Full Cage Goblin -07 SS/TC F23 #457

[Ross]

I would check your fuse box and BCM, and see what circuits have been eliminated when it was converted to a Goblin.
Then repurpose one of those circuits.
On my LSJ, these circuits in red would be candidates.

 

[newbtrying]

I would check your fuse box and BCM, and see what circuits have been eliminated when it was converted to a Goblin.
Then repurpose one of those circuits.
On my LSJ, these circuits in red would be candidates.

How would you go about repurposing one of those circuits? I also have an LSJ so i can borrow from your work that you linked. The majority of my past experience borrowing power for something I was adding to a vehicle has not been done well, or cleanly. I'm looking to learn a better way to do this.

 

[David]

I would think for the boost gauge you can use the existing boost power. As @Ross diagram shows its using the wiper fuse.

 

[Ross]

Pick a circuit, look it up on Charm, then add a wire to your gauge.

For example, lets use BCM circuit 26, which was the door locks (15A) when it was a Cobalt.
I find my 2006 LSJ donor car on Charm, choose

• Repair and Diagnosis

Then

• Diagrams
• Electrical Diagrams
• Power Locks

This showed me Fuse 26, but said to check Power Distribution.... I want to know the wires for Fuse 26, and this doesn't show me that.

So I went back, and eventually found in - Repair and Diagnosis:

• Power and Ground Distribution

Electrical Diagrams
For information regarding diagrams for this component, please refer to Power and Ground Distribution diagrams.
Power Distribution Diagram Index
which led me to
Power Distribution Diagram 6

Here I noticed that the door locks (in Yellow) have relays that are internal to the BCM, and I noticed the wiring diagram didn't show me the wires.
I also noticed that the sunroof (in Green) and power windows do have the wires listed, so those would be a better choice for gauges.
This diagram shows BCM connector C3, pin D5 and C5 are both using the 30A fuse from the power windows.
So lets pull the C3 connector, and see if we can get to those wires.

Back to Repair and Diagnosis, then Diagrams, then

• Connector Views

then Body Control Module, then

• Body Control Module (BCM) - C3

Both C5 and D5 are listed as Dark Green wires. Check your BCM C3 connector, and see if C5 or D5 is available to connect a wire to.
As a RAP power fuse, these will keep 12V+ for about 10 minutes after you turn off the key.

 

[newbtrying]

I decided to use the old boost gauge power and ground for my application. This means that I have two unused wires from the old boost gauge connector. One is a sensor wire and the other is dimmer. I'll just tape these up and tuck them out of the way when done.

I have some questions about connecting the True BoostX gauge up to HP Tuners Pro Link cable, but i'll get to that in a second.

First, I have already connected the power and ground wire to the boost solenoid. Now, I taped up the pairs of wires that I need to install together:

From AFR gauge, red wire goes to switched car power. from boost gauge, two red wires go to switched car power. I also have one black wire from AFR and boost gauge that goes to car ground. AFR white goes to Pro Link red. AFR brown goes to Pro Link black. -- So far so good. Now, where i get lost: I think boost green goes to Pro Link yellow and boost white goes to Pro Link Orange (can high and low?)

I am not sure if this is right for two reasons: The AFR gauge has an analog out and ground. Therefore i connect those to the pro link analog and ground wires. Now, the boost gauge does not have an analog out as far as i understand, but it does have can high and can low. However, on the wiring diagram AEM supplies, it says that these connect to AEMnet enabled devices... is this going to work in HP Tuners through the Pro Link Cable as I have described wiring it?

attaching pictures of the wiring diagrams of AFR and boost and pro link cable

 

[newbtrying]

Ok, I emailed AEM and HP Tuners and the conclusion I've been handed is that since the boost gauge I have does not have an analog 0-5V output, it cannot communicate with the HP Tuners Pro Link cable and VCM scanner unless I dove down the rabbit hole of CAN bus. And even if i did, HP Tuners does not have the right interface to translate the signal - is my understanding that isn't very strong.

Because of this, I just removed the wires from the boost gauge to the Pro Link cable and the tuner won't see my boost pressure from this gauge. They'll have to go off MAP which is what we were doing before. Now at least i have a better boost solenoid/gauge setup.

-I pulled the bottom two wires (green and white) out of the left side, which only left my wideband O2 hooked up to

I had a friend 3d print a gauge cluster for me, which won't be here till this weekend. In the meantime, I pinned all the wires up out of the way and mounted the gauges in a cardboard box that I taped onto the chassis. Once this was done, I could program the boost controller and take the car for a rip. Right now I'm on 40% duty cycle and 22 PSI of boost. I logged a long drive and sent it off to the tuner and we'll do the upload new tune and send log process a couple more times.

-new wideband O2 sensor install.

-temporary gauge cluster.

Now I need to address a catch can system. I think I have a good bit of positive crank case pressure because I've got a slight oil leak near the timing chain cover, but it only really leaks anything if i've been into the boost a bunch. Possibly bad pcv, idk. Needs a catch can or two, so i'll just install that and some new check valves and hopefully address this issue. (or maybe it isn't an issue, because my dipstick has never popped out... i don't know much, i'm new to all this LOL)

I see that David modified his valve cover to attach a fancy Motion Raceworks breather port for his catch can system, but i'm going to go a different route in that area. I ordered a billet baffled oil cap with AN10 fitting for like $9 on amazon, so i'll vent the valve cover from there. From this cap, i'll throw in a check valve because why not, and that will go to the catch can, from the catch can, then to the intake port on the turbo. I'll use the small port off the valve cover near the turbo to vent to the air intake (post air filter, pre turbo inlet) with a check valve flipped so that air can vent into the valve cover if there's a vacuum event.

- Thanks to David and Desert Sasquatch, I know I need to have a second catch can plumbed into the manifold, but I'll have to probe them about deciphering David's diagram shown earlier on my log.

Also, if you are like me and have a lot of those useless cable gun locks lying around the house from your excessive firearm purchases, I just learned that they are fantastic for locking up your helmet to your car while you're in public places.

 

[newbtrying]

So im in the process of changing out all my rubber lines to AN lines. Im running the z57 turbo and I got to change the coolant and oil lines already. Majority of lines im in the process but got the necessary fitting sorted out. I will post some pictures and information one I'm finish. Took alot of ordering random sizes to make it work.

As for a catch can I was in the same boat as you. So many opinions from everyone, I gathered everything up and decided on a plan with I will post on my thread. I have attached a quick drawing how I will run it. Also had to customize the valve cover to make it work.
View attachment 56504

David, between you and Desert Sasquatch, I've got a plan for the upper portion of your catch can plumbing diagram (see last post). Still, I don't quite understand the lower portion.

What I do understand is that position 2 (see pic) is in the intake manifold. I'll have to drill a hole in my manifold and install an AN bulkhead fitting there since I am running the original LSJ laminova core manifold. However, I don't understand where position 1 (see pic) is. Can you shed some light on that for me?

 

[David]

David, between you and Desert Sasquatch, I've got a plan for the upper portion of your catch can plumbing diagram (see last post). Still, I don't quite understand the lower portion.

View attachment 56776

What I do understand is that position 2 (see pic) is in the intake manifold. I'll have to drill a hole in my manifold and install an AN bulkhead fitting there since I am running the original LSJ laminova core manifold. However, I don't understand where position 1 (see pic) is. Can you shed some light on that for me?

Position one is the PCV internal valve. Snice I have a Dyemond manifold im running an external PCV valve. Using your oem manifold there is no way to remove or tap the PCV port.

 

[David]

The stock PCV valve is known for not hold boost pressure correctly. Im using a Radium External PCV valve that can hold boost pressure and still regulate air flow.

My oem PCV valve was all caked up and not holding.

It took me a while to determine how was installation going to run the catch cans. Between lots of members here, Gemini and a few engine builders i came up with the drawing.

 

[Rauq]

Is this not the analog output from your gauge that you can bring into the HPT Prolink?

David, between you and Desert Sasquatch, I've got a plan for the upper portion of your catch can plumbing diagram (see last post). Still, I don't quite understand the lower portion.



What I do understand is that position 2 (see pic) is in the intake manifold. I'll have to drill a hole in my manifold and install an AN bulkhead fitting there since I am running the original LSJ laminova core manifold. However, I don't understand where position 1 (see pic) is. Can you shed some light on that for me?

If you're running a stock LSJ intake manifold with laminova intercooler, I would recommend not overcomplicating things and leaving the stock PCV system in place.

 

[Gtstorey]

Is this not the analog output from your gauge that you can bring into the HPT Prolink?


View attachment 56778

The manual even gives the formula to use so either 30-0306 isn't the correct model or someone is confused.
But why do you (OP) think this is any better than using the MAP?

 

[Rauq]

I don't know if OP has the same answer but an LSJ will not acknowledge the existence of more than 215kPa. I even put a wider range MAP in mine and scaled it and got good data that still plateaued at 215kPa. Still of limited value given that even with better readings at higher boost levels, the computer still can't do anything with the data without significant rescaling throughout the tune.

 

[Gtstorey]

I don't know if OP has the same answer but an LSJ will not acknowledge the existence of more than 215kPa. I even put a wider range MAP in mine and scaled it and got good data that still plateaued at 215kPa. Still of limited value given that even with better readings at higher boost levels, the computer still can't do anything with the data without significant rescaling throughout the tune.

Can you not use the map sensor voltage and a formula to still get an accurate reading of boost in HPT even if the ECM doesn't use it?

 

[Rttoys]

Also, if you are like me and have a lot of those useless cable gun locks lying around the house from your excessive firearm purchases, I just learned that they are fantastic for locking up your helmet to your car while you're in public places.

I have been using gun locks for my helmets for years. They work very well

fun fact. You can donate excess gun locks to your local police department. On the other end, if you need one, they usually have plenty to give to you.

 

[Rauq]

Can you not use the map sensor voltage and a formula to still get an accurate reading of boost in HPT even if the ECM doesn't use it?

As I recall, MAP is one of the sensors where the P12 will only give you a reading and not sensor voltage. I went and checked my datalogs and that plateau is actually 255kPa but the VE table stops at 215kPa.

 

[newbtrying]

The manual even gives the formula to use so either 30-0306 isn't the correct model or someone is confused.
But why do you (OP) think this is any better than using the MAP?

Yes, when you go to AEM and click on the boost gauge that I have (30-0352), it will pull up the instructions/wiring diagram for the 30-0306, which isn't the same. This was part of my confusion. -0306 has analog 5v output. -0352 does not. If i had known this before buying the gauge, I would have went with the -0306, which maxes out at 35 psi (and is plenty). I went with the thought process of "bigger is better" which was just another learning moment in this building journey for me.

 

[newbtrying]

I don't know if OP has the same answer but an LSJ will not acknowledge the existence of more than 215kPa. I even put a wider range MAP in mine and scaled it and got good data that still plateaued at 215kPa. Still of limited value given that even with better readings at higher boost levels, the computer still can't do anything with the data without significant rescaling throughout the tune.

With the understanding I have, this is just a bit over 30 psi, which I don't have plans of exceeding. so this is ok for my needs.

 

[newbtrying]

Is this not the analog output from your gauge that you can bring into the HPT Prolink?


View attachment 56778


If you're running a stock LSJ intake manifold with laminova intercooler, I would recommend not overcomplicating things and leaving the stock PCV system in place.

Currently am running stock manifold with laminova intercooler, but I'm entertaining the idea of going aftermarket manifold and A2A intercooler over the winter when i'm bored.

 

[newbtrying]

anyone have any recommendations on spark plug/spark plug gap combo for boosted LSJ? I'm getting misfires starting at about 18 PSI of boost, and I think it's spark blowout. If memory serves, I have the original spark plugs in this engine that the donor came with, which probably has a gap of about 0.044"

I'm leaning toward NGK iridium IX 1 step cooler and gapping to .028 - .030
I would love to hear anyone's first hand experience and preference.

 

[Gtstorey]

Most of the recommendations for higher boost engines by the pro tuners on HPT would steer you away from iridium plugs to something more basic. All iridium will get you is longer service life, and normal plugs will probably last a very long time in a Goblin.

For the gap, just start adjusting them down until the misfires go away. That is another reason to get away from the iridium, better for you to hand adjust the gap. If you get into that 0.28 range and still getting misfires, then you have other problems.