V1 Robinjo #405 Full Cage - 2006 SS/SC Build "Drago"

[Robinjo]

MAF, MAP, TAC/APP all share a low reference. I'd guess you'd see more issues than that if you had a bad ground, but grounds are always worth a check. If you have HP Tuners, can you watch sensor values as it idles? Also, any chance your MAF is backwards?

Just checked, arrow on MAF is pointed towards the throttle body. I’ll re-check all the grounds as I put the engine back in (from the clutch work). I do not have HP Tuners yet. I wasn’t quite ready to dive into tuning.

I’m going to investigate the codes on AllData as Gtstory suggested in the downtime. I’m also going to give the throttle body a good cleaning. Or are the TB’s more of a replacement item?

 

[Gtstorey]

Determine what the throttle body code is first. It may be voltage issue that cleaning won’t fix.

the odds are most of the codes will be wiring related.

 

[Gtstorey]

I did a little digging on your P codes on alldata.
DTC P2228 Barometric Pressure (BARO) Sensor Circuit Low Voltage
DTC P0068 Throttle Body Airflow Performance
DTC P1101 Intake Air Flow System Performance
These 3 could all be related to the Baro sensor P2228.
As a first step make sure the baro sensor and supercharger inlet pressure sensor connectors are not swapped.

 

[Robinjo]

Got the transmission off the engine. What socket is needed to get the pressure plate off? It seems like an 8mm but is a weird pattern. Also, will I need something special on the flywheel bolts?


I think my throw-out bearing failed but I’m new to GM vehicles. Is this to spec?

 

[escapepilot]

Got the transmission off the engine. What socket is needed to get the pressure plate off? It seems like an 8mm but is a weird pattern. Also, will I need something special on the flywheel bolts?
View attachment 35727

I think my throw-out bearing failed but I’m new to GM vehicles. Is this to spec?
View attachment 35728

Flex Seal and send it!
The flex plate bolts are torx.

 

[Robinjo]

Flex Seal and send it!
The flex plate bolts are torx.

Flex Seal is an option but I do have a fancy upgraded unit arriving tomorrow from ZZP. I think I’ll try it first and save the Flex Seal for the next time.
Thanks, I guess I’m picking up a set of Torx sockets tomorrow. Sucks to buy a set of tools to use once or twice, but that’s what it takes.

 

[Gtstorey]

I think the technical name for the sockets that you need for the pressure plate is E-torx.

The flywheel bolts should be metric hex head bolts. They are not recommended to reuse and are expensive. I think ZZPERFORMANCE has some at an almost reasonable price. I used some 10.9 bolts with the correct thread from auto zone that I ground the head down to the proper thickness.

 

[Gtstorey]

You can pick up the E torx at HarborFreight

 

[Robinjo]

I ordered new flywheel bolts from ZZP while I got the clutch and TB kit. I guess a trip to Harbour Freight is in order. I needed more Nitrile gloves anyways.

 

[Robinjo]

Day 46 9/18/2022
Working hours: 3.0
Total Hours: 123.5
(Assembly Hours: 62.5)
Posting the stuff, some of it has been discussed above but cataloging it all here.

Spent three hours pulling the engine and transmission, it could have been done faster but I was taking my time as I did not want to pull the engine. Upon inspection of the TB and clutch, the issue was very obvious. Removal of the engine was very straight forward, remove the fuse box, disconnect the wring harness, fuel lines and remove fluids (that just got leaks fixed). I will note, the subframe falls out much easier than it goes in the Goblin. I installed Transmission was pretty easy to. 2 15mm bolts holding in the starter and 6 or 7 18mm bolts hold the engine/trans to each other. For the throw out bearing, 3 T-30 bolts help it in and they came loose easily (thankfully). The pressure plate was held in by 6 10mm e-Torx bolts. Lastly, the flywheel is held in by 8 17mm bolts. The flywheel is going to a machine shop for work and then I can start putting it all back together. While the subframe is down, I'm changing the oil pan out. It has a very slight leak but now is the time as it'll be super easy.

Throw-out Bearing/Slave Cylinder Note- this isn't the ideal state....


Clutch Note: neither is this....


Air-Gap Video (credit to ZZP)

Items to complete:
Shifter Mechanism
E-Brake Cables
Install Hood and Windshield
Alignment
Check Air-Gap for clutch system
Throw-out Bearing/Clutch Install
Reinstall engine
Reinstall fuse box
Engine Coolant
HX Coolant
Change Oil Pan
Install subframe
Install new outer tie rod ends
Deal with power issue

Issues to deal with:
e-Brake Cables (still wrong)
Clutch/Gear Selecting issue when running - (Parts arrive 9/21)
Car Pulled power

 

[Robinjo]

Day 47 9/27/2022
Working hours: 7.0
Total Hours: 130.5
(Assembly Hours: 69.5)
Installed the slave cylinder/throw-out bearing (TOB) unit, flywheel and clutch units. This went decently well other than trying to find a point to pin the flywheel while torqueing. Honda flywheels have a hole all the way through them, so they can be pinned easily. The Cobalt one did not so I had to pin it through the starter hole into the flywheel teeth. If there is a better way, please let me know because I'm sure the clutch will be replaced again at some point. The reinstall of the engine went well. Basically just everything from the first install. Install engine, hook up connectors, install fuse box, reconnect fuel. Engine fired right up after a quick prime. I bled the system right after installing the subframe and brakes but before doing all the connectors, coolant hoses and fuse box. It was very easy to access the clutch bleeding port with everything out of the way and zip-tied back. Clutch pedal is firm, but not crazy. Just feels like a slightly stiff clutch, so I'm calling that fixed! Took the car for a quick test drive and it is very darty on the road. I'm still at 35 psi for the tires and have not done any sort of alignment. Those will be next on the list, maybe today. The car still went into 'Reduced Power Mode' and gave the below code. I will note, I only half filled the coolant so I'm hoping the reduced power was due to low coolant. It did not give any of the previous codes about MAF, MAP and TB issues. So, next steps? Burp the coolant system and then try again? Clear the codes before the next jaunt?

DTC:
P38F3 - No data (This is not listed in AllData) - Nothing found on the internet either.
C1021 - No data (This is not listed in AllData) - Internet lists this as ABS Booster Control Pressure
C1206 - No data (This is not listed in AllData) - Internet lists this as Wheel Speed Sensor Rear LH
U3E04 - No data (This is not listed in AllData) - Nothing found on the internet either
P0449 - Evap System AllData lists this code as Evap System as well
P0443 - Evap System AllData lists this code as Evap System as well
P0036 - O2 Sensor Bank 1 AllData lists this code and H02S-2
P389A - No data (This is not listed in AllData) - Nothing found on the internet either
B1704 - Mirror left control switch open (This is not listed in AllData) - Driver's reclining seat sensor fault?

Items to complete:
Install Hood and Windshield
Alignment
Power port

Issues to deal with:
e-Brake Cables (still wrong)
Car Pulled power
Shifter not allowing 1st gear - Adjusted again

 

[Gtstorey]

Is the car giving you a reduced power message or are you assuming that because it doesn't have enough power?

 

[Robinjo]

Is the car giving you a reduced power message or are you assuming that because it doesn't have enough power?

It is giving me a Reduced Power message on the gauge cluster readout.

 

[Gtstorey]

It is giving me a Reduced Power message on the gauge cluster readout.

You may need to see if any other DTC have been turned off. I’ve speculated that the SC won’t enter reduced power without having other DTCs but I don’t know if that has been confirmed.

 

[Rttoys]

Ya. None of the dtc’s listed will cause reduced power. Plus, the only time you’ll get that message on screen is an overtemp or throttle pedal/throttlebody problem.

Definitely reduce tire pressure to about 20 and do an alignment.

 

[Robinjo]

I went for another test drive after refilling the coolant and there was no Reduced Power Mode readout this time. I cleared the code prior to driving and drove it maybe half a mile. It had been going into reduced power before even leaving my driveway. I made 8-10 psi boost at one point, when I could actually take my eyes off the road for a second. Wow, this this is going to be fast!

I still cannot get 1st gear consistently so I'm still playing with the shifter setup. Sometimes it goes into 1st and sometimes it doesn't. It's getting closer, I think just some fine tuning is needed. I haven't tried the 3rd or 5th yet as I'm not brave enough to drive it faster with the alignment not being done. I lowered the psi's on the tires and it helped some, but the alignment is going to be the best thing.

 

[Robinjo]

Day 48 9/27/2022
Working hours: 1.0
Total Hours: 131.5
(Assembly Hours: 70.5)
Went for a few test drives as everyone in the house wanted a ride in the Goblin. My son that built it with me couldn't stop smiling or laughing, he loved it! Reduced Power Mode did not come on during the 3 test drives, but those were 1 or 2 miles each. Note: During the test drives, everyone stops and looks at you! This kit sure gets a lot of attention. I was doing maybe 20 mph so the stares weren't from excessive speed. I guess all my neighbors know that I have unique vehicle now.

I fixed my problem with the shifter. Apparently I didn't cut enough off the end of the stock housing. This caused the lower 'arms' to hit the housing and keep me out of 1-3-5 gears. After trimming, I have all 6 gears (if you include reverse). I could have kept a little more of the housing than I did, but one side had a nice line to follow for my jig saw. I know the arms aren't perfectly up/down in the photos, it's in 2nd gear to help keep it from rolling off.


Items to complete:
Install Hood and Windshield
String Alignment
Power port

Issues to deal with:
e-Brake Cables (still wrong)
Car Pulled power - Still monitoring
Shifter not allowing 1st gear - Adjusted again Fixed

 

[KingChuck24]

Wow! Looks like your nearing completion, are you going to register?

 

[escapepilot]

Hopefully, I'll be right there with you in progress next week.

 

[Robinjo]

Wow! Looks like your nearing completion, are you going to register?

Of course! I'm not independently wealthy enough to have this as just a race car (props to those that are!). I've already sent all my information into the state to have an inspector come look at my masterpiece. From what Gtstory has told me, it's more of a check to make sure I didn't steal stuff. I gave them my notarized Bill of Sale from the Cobalt, title in my name, DF invoice and all the receipts from every little thing I bought. I'm using his method of overloading them with paperwork. Hopefully in the next week or two they come give me a VIN and then I can do all the tag stuff.