V1 Shadow Lou Racing, street,track,autocross Goblin

[BaltimoreHokie]

Wow. Thats a lot of work. Do you think your power is limited by anything in particular right now? I would think you'd be in the 300's easy. Are you planning to go E85?

 

[George]

Currently not looking for more power need to learn to take advantage of what I have. To make more powe with supercharGerman would need to get intake manifold ported and the TVS supercharger. I am sure the supercharger could get there but with poor efficency .

Brad

 

[ctuinstra]

What did you have to do to fix the idle issues? I assume yours was hunting for idle also.

 

[SliderR1]

Brad - have you measured how much clearance you have between your coilovers and the wheel/tire? I'm trying to figure out if my setup needs spacers or not - and judging by an earlier picture in your thread (and the tire/wheels sizes and dims you posted) I think I might not need them.

 

[George]

I do have a 1/8" spacer so that the Wilwood caliper will clear the wheel. The wheels basicly have a 5" backspacing as my goal is to get the line through the king pin angle meets the center of the tire tread.

Brad

 

[George]

What did you have to do to fix the idle issues? I assume yours was hunting for idle also.

My engine has stage 2 cams that do not help Bryan who tuned my car. Has a lot of knowledge on this system he spent 2 hours on just that. We also raised the idle speed because of the cams.

Brad

 

[ctuinstra]

My engine has stage 2 cams that do not help Bryan who tuned my car. Has a lot of knowledge on this system he spent 2 hours on just that. We also raised the idle speed because of the cams.

Brad

What kind of cost are you looking at for that type of tune?

 

[George]

I spent about $500.00 and they worked on it for about 4.5hr. The Tune charge for that year GM with supercharger is $450.00 plus Kansas has a tax on labor.

Brad

 

[George]

Well I popped out and axle on hard acceleration in when I went into 2nd gear. The combination of being lowered in the rear and compression of acceleration just pulled the axle out of the inner driver. Back to the drawing board.

Brad

 

[DanPerryy]

Did the long side or the short side pop out? I know that the long side will hit the engine when the suspension bottoms out on a non SS manual transmission (the SS has two short axles with a idler bearing on a center shaft). The automatics - because they are so long - have two (near?) equal length axles. I'll bet you will need to limit the suspension travel, or figure out how to get the SS axle / drive configuration.

 

[DanPerryy]

Justin, JSAX - has a manual and he runs his hard. He has not had this problem to my knowledge.

 

[JSATX]

I have seen where the axle has contacted the transmission housing though. I moved the rubber busing on the axle to the area where it was contacting.

 

[George]

Mine is the SS with two short shafts but I had made lower ball joint extenders and lowered the rear of the car so that at the rear subframe it is only has 6" of ground clearance. The axle are at a very step angle. Looking for some axles with longer inner driver for more travel but will need to raise back of car some at least for now. With the way it is setup it will raise the rear roll center which will reduce the body roll even thought it will be setting higher.

Brad

 

[George]

Well popped the left axle again. Up on inspection the engine and transmission assemble are setting to the right about 0.400" when measured at where the inner driver lines up with the subframe. With my other modifications it just pulls the left axle out of the driver when rear suspension is compressed on the left. I will not be making track night at Heartland Park.

Brad

 

[DanPerryy]

Sorry, .4 inch is a lot of offset. As I remember the axle is in splines of the transmission only a half inch or so and the pair of CV joints on each side of the car allow maybe 1" of axle float. I suppose that you have checked and are using new C rings snapping the axles into the housing.

 

[George]

Yes the clips are there, the axle pulls out thought the inner boot.

Brad

 

[DanPerryy]

Could you post some pictures of both axles showing the mods you made to the suspension. I too would like to drop my car by a couple of inches at some point.

 

[George]

I made lowe balljoint extenders so that the suspension geometry would be correct when lowered. With the coilovers from DF Kit Car the height and shock travel can be adjusted.

Brad

 

[DanPerryy]

Did you build the machined part that drops the lower control arm?

 

[George]

Yes on a World War mill. They were made before the chassis arrived.

Brad