V1 Shadow Lou Racing, street,track,autocross Goblin

[ccannx]

Are you still running 500lbs up front ? I have bumped up to 300 from a 140/250 variable spring in the front and a smaller 3/4 inch swaybar. I’m going to find out how slow my setup is at the end of May. A friend who is a bit faster than me is bringing his purpose built stalker that will be run for nationals in e-mod.

 

[George]

I have 500# in front at the present the weather has kept me from doing much driving so far.

Brad

 

[George]

Are you still running 500lbs up front ? I have bumped up to 300 from a 140/250 variable spring in the front and a smaller 3/4 inch swaybar. I’m going to find out how slow my setup is at the end of May. A friend who is a bit faster than me is bringing his purpose built stalker that will be run for nationals in e-mod.

Are you going to try and make it to Branson in June for the Spring Meet.

Brad

 

[ccannx]

That’s to far for me. I’m also not registered for street so I would have to tow.

 

[George]

Finally got my stength back so I can get out of the car by my self. So been driving the Goblin it. With the heavy front sway bar added a 50# and 40# spring cushion in each rear spring. Using a 150# spring with the spring cushion. So that gives a 240# spring on compression and 150# on drop.
When the rear spring is installed it has to be compressed.

Brad

 

[George]

Driving the car it seemed twitchy, so air the rear tires form 17psi to 20psi that worked real well, so I added 2psi to the front made the care twitchy again so I think the sway bear needs to be softened.
Got the GOPRO hooded up to watch the air flow (taped tuffs of yarn in several places). The air on the engine cover and bottom of the heat exchanger (mounted on top of the roll cage) came forward the air on the top was flowing to the rear.
So I need to change something. Would post video if I can figure out how to move the video clip to you tube. Its taken me all morning to get the video off the SD car and figure out how to view it.
May try adding a rear spoiler to the back of the car not shure what to do other than use the cut down windscreen or remove it.

Brad

 

[Ross]

I use Shotcut to edit GoPro videos. It is free, but save your work often, as sometimes it crashes. Lots of YouTube videos to explain how to use it.

 

[Waterdriver]

Got the GOPRO hooded up to watch the air flow (taped tuffs of yarn in several places). The air on the engine cover and bottom of the heat exchanger (mounted on top of the roll cage) came forward the air on the top was flowing to the rear.
So I need to change something. Would post video if I can figure out how to move the video clip to you tube. Its taken me all morning to get the video off the SD car and figure out how to view it.
May try adding a rear spoiler to the back of the car not shure what to do other than use the cut down windscreen or remove it.

Brad

For the air flow in the rear, a rear diffuser would help. Starting at the firewall running back to at least the back edge of the subframe will help with that tumbling/reverse airflow. Still going to get some air coming in from the sides unless that is sealed off too. Kind of like fingers in a dam springing leaks.
There is so much airflow shooting up from behind the firewall, Ariel Atom, in the Atom 4, mounted their heatexchanger there.
With our shifter karts when roadracing, we could extend the floorpan to the center line of the rear axle. Made a big difference with airflow behind the seat and driver.

My cardbord template. This is before driving with it around the neighborhood. A couple of times up to speed and the whole center section is bowed down. So it's doing something. Need to mount the camera and tufts to see for sure.

 

[George]

Is that a 3" lip on the turn down and what thickness of material did you use?

Brad

 

[Waterdriver]

Slat has a 2.5in drop. Could go even lower by adding a flexible skirt edge like used for air dams or lawn edging.
Material is, um, well, cardboard. It is a template.
I intend on using either Baltic Birch plywood or composites.
Just haven't had any time to work on the car. I have been slammed with work projects due to COVID.

 

[George]

Move swaybar links to the softest setting from the intermediate postion. Drives better at high speed seems to handle just as good. It does lean more in the turn.
Installed last summers last year's wind screen that is cut down and has a U slot cut in the center. In the mirror could looked like air flow is better.

Brad

 

[ccannx]

Driving the car it seemed twitchy, so air the rear tires form 17psi to 20psi that worked real well, so I added 2psi to the front made the care twitchy again so I think the sway bear needs to be softened.
Got the GOPRO hooded up to watch the air flow (taped tuffs of yarn in several places). The air on the engine cover and bottom of the heat exchanger (mounted on top of the roll cage) came forward the air on the top was flowing to the rear.
So I need to change something. Would post video if I can figure out how to move the video clip to you tube. Its taken me all morning to get the video off the SD car and figure out how to view it.
May try adding a rear spoiler to the back of the car not shure what to do other than use the cut down windscreen or remove it.

Brad

I ran the car with the 140/250 Rear variables Sunday and it made it much more twitchy. Had the opposite dropped my pressure in the rear from 25 to 22psi (25”diameter Avon’s) it tightened up also ended up toe in in the front helped keep the car from turning in too fast. I Need to lengthen those arms to drop the steering ratio. Also the tune is too jerky. I couldn’t hold a constant radius in the skid pad with the throttle blipping and the 250 rate

 

[George]

Made new steering arm for mine. The are drilled to elimnatet ackermam or have ackerman. And another set that were 1" shorter to quicken the steeing ratio for autocross.

Brad

 

[George]

Made a couple of new parts for airflow. Besides the windshield with the U cut in the middle. Copied Waterdrivers rear belly pan. And added a 12x36 rear spoiler. With the engine cover on I get no hot air coming from the back and no exhaust fumes.
And the Air Wings work very we to keep the cold air out in the morning and crate air flow as the outside temps rise

Brad

 

[ccannx]

Made a couple of new parts for airflow. Besides the windshield with the U cut in the middle. Copied Waterdrivers rear belly pan. And added a 12x36 rear spoiler. With the engine cover on I get no hot air coming from the back and no exhaust fumes.
And the Air Wings work very we to keep the cold air out in the morning and crate air flow as the outside temps rise

Brad

Have you changed how the top of your rear shocks mount also ? Mine seem to seat further up with more threads exposed where the adjuster sits.

 

[George]

Have you changed how the top of your rear shocks mount also ? Mine seem to seat further up with more threads exposed where the adjuster sits.

Yes installed a spherical bea ring so it does not try and bend the strut when going up and down

Brad

 

[ccannx]

Cool ! I was wondering about that. Did you do a write up ? Was it something you had to fabricate or was it off the shelf ?

 

[George]

Everthing is in my build log someplace.
Used a spherical bearing 22mm od and Id to match strut.
Brad

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Brad, I trolled through you build log and couldn't find where you did a write up for the spherical bearings. I too am interested in this. If you know where this is at at least 2 of us would be grateful.

 

[George]

Maybe I just thougnt I did. Searched for spherical bearing b with a 22mm od with I'd to match strut. Pressed the bearing in the aluminum strut mount. Threaded a small hole next to the bearing to place a small screw and washer to keep it in place.
Made hat pieces for below and above the bearing.
Brad