V1 Sluggonaut's Extended Track #364 - 2007 SS/SC (Turbo) Donor

[jayrolls]

Day 19
Work Time: 1.5 hours
Completed: Wiring Harness Guide Part 11

Finished the wiring harness tonight and just in time for my deadline of tomorrow. I still have to tear down the harness table and finish cleaning up my work area but the harness is officially done. The only real hurdles down the home stretch were some wires that got taped up along the way in the dash harness and I had some tape removal and replacement activities along the way.

Note to future builders: Make sure the TPMS receiver wires stay by the BCM so they don't end up taped down somewhere in the middle of the dash harness. Tessa tape works great on all fronts except unwrapping unless you have a nice unwrapping tool (aka knife or razor).

All the grounds tested good and the major 'gotchas' have been traced (i.e. LSJ green wire from DLC/Pin 2 back to the ECM). I will try not to have anxiety about the first start until it's time to cross that bridge.

My time tracking on the wiring harness came to a stop at 25.5 hours across 11 work sessions:
View attachment 29168

Lookin good.

 

[Sluggonaut]

I've been searching the forum planning my approach to freshen up my LCAs (bushings/ball joints) and I read in my Cobalt manual that the '05's and '06+ with RPO FE1 (Soft Ride Suspension) models the ball joints can be replaced. However, it states, "On all other 2006 and later models, the control arm must be replaced with the ball joint." Is this true?

I was planning on replacing the ones on there now since they potentially have all 140k miles of the donor on them. If they don't look bad is it worth buying all new control arms? What is everyone else doing to prep their FE5 LCAs?

I've got the MOOG part # noted from all the posts I've seen on the rear CAB, just not sure what to do about the rest.

 

[Rttoys]

Replace the whole arm with the aluminum ones and call it a day. If you want more rigidity replace the bushing with a heim bushing.

moog aluminum arms-
RK620897 and 98

Heim bushing-
Moog K201285 https://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/moog-k201285
Ottp 19002 https://www.overthetopperformance.com/Spherical-Control-Arm-Bushings_p_76.html

edit:
If you put these bushings in, you’ll have to heat the bushing end of the control arm and freeze the bushing so it will press in. You’ll also need a press.

 

[Sluggonaut]

Replace the whole arm with the aluminum ones and call it a day.

So are there different aluminum ones than the ones that came on my 2007 SS?

The ball joints look good but I figured the MOOG ones you listed are a good idea.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

The early SS models had an FE3 suspension that used a 0.750 inch ball joint stub on the aluminum LCAs that mated to a corresponding aluminum hub upright. The later SS models (2008+) had an FE5 suspension that used a 0.805 inch ball joint stub on the corresponding aluminum hub upright. This difference in ball joint stub has created a lot of problems at time trying to get the correct ball joint replacement for the later SS aluminum LCAs.
The aluminum LCAs, early or late, can have the ball joints replaced - contrary to GM literature who just wanted to sell you new LCAs for more $$. The rivets can be ground off and grade 8 or better bolts can be installed with the new ball joints - bolts come with some kits.

Edit: this is the Moog PN for the late SS ball joints - K80566.

 

[Gtstorey]

at the risk of being repetitive and boring, some of us didn’t have any luck with the moof k80566 ball joints fitting.

 

[k.rollin]

The early SS models had an FE3 suspension that used a 0.750 inch ball joint stub on the aluminum LCAs that mated to a corresponding aluminum hub upright. The later SS models (2008+) had an FE5 suspension that used a 0.805 inch ball joint stub on the corresponding aluminum hub upright. This difference in ball joint stub has created a lot of problems at time trying to get the correct ball joint replacement for the later SS aluminum LCAs.
The aluminum LCAs, early or late, can have the ball joints replaced - contrary to GM literature who just wanted to sell you new LCAs for more $$. The rivets can be ground off and grade 8 or better bolts can be installed with the new ball joints - bolts come with some kits.

Edit: this is the Moog PN for the late SS ball joints - K80566.

The FE5 suspension RPO code was used for all years of Cobalt production.

FE1 suspension
19-mm front stabilizer bar
16-mm rear stabilizer bar
Stamped steel front lower control arms
This was the base model suspension

FE3 suspension
22-mm front and rear stabilizer bars
Cast aluminum front lower control arms
FE3 shocks and springs
This was the mid-tier option fitted to the SS/NA and Sport trims (LE5 engine)

FE5 suspension - 2005-07 years
24-mm front stabilizer bar
FE5 shocks and struts. The springs may be different from some FE3 models.
Larger front end links
This was fitted to the SS/SC

FE5 suspension - 2008 and up years
24-mm rear stabilizer bar
NEW FE5(LNF) shocks, struts, and springs.
Updated front knuckle
This was fitted to the SS/TC

 

[Ark :D]

I've had no problem whatsoever, going backwards to using SS/SC knuckles, wheel bearings, LCA's, and axles on my 2008 SS/TC donor'd Goblin. The low weight of the Goblin makes the strength of the axles of no concern, though I am running stock everything, engine-wise.

 

[Rttoys]

So are there different aluminum ones than the ones that came on my 2007 SS?

The ball joints look good but I figured the MOOG ones you listed are a good idea.

08 or 09 is the break point where the ball joint stud changed sizes. the newer ones can “get by” with the smaller size, but not ideal when pushing it. Mine somehow had the steel arms, so I changed them to the aluminum during my build. All components are new, so that was just fine with me. I later upgraded to the spherical heim bushing to make the arm as solid as possible.

 

[Sluggonaut]

The donor shell is gone finally. After extensive weight loss, her final weight was 860 lbs for $68.80.

It wasn't too bad loading it up and the guy buying some parts from me pitched in and made it a 5-minute job this morning.

I saw the magnet and wondered how he would lift it off the trailer:

I had to drive the trailer out from under the shell so didn't catch the beginning of the crushing:

 

[Sluggonaut]

Plans to pick up the kit myself fell through, so now we wait on shipping. This gives me plenty of time to get all the prep done, so there's no wasting time once the kit arrives.

Thanks to @GoblinGal I now have some pics to document the build properly.

 

[Sluggonaut]

The rivets can be ground off and grade 8 or better bolts can be installed with the new ball joints - bolts come with some kits.

I took a closer look at the ball joints and one has already been replaced - the rivets have been replaced with bolts. It also seems to need replacing again while the riveted one looks fine. I'll just replace both and not worry about them.

 

[Sluggonaut]

I know my fuel pump sending unit is bad and needs to be replaced before I get to that part of my build.

In my searches, I am seeing the 2.2/2.4 fuel pumps for $70-ish, but anything I see for the 2.0 is over $200 more. Is the basket and sending unit the same between the 3 motor options with only the pump being different?

If that's the case, I can just transfer my after-market fuel pump over, but I'd hate to waste $70 if there are other differences.

Edit: I am now finding other sites that show the same fuel pump for all three motors for 2007 at the $70-is price point. Is the resistor available by itself or does the whole unit need to be replaced?

 

[Ross]

They make aftermarket fuel level senders in lots of different lengths. These aftermarket fuel level senders use some magnetic switches and fixed resistors to measure the fuel level. So your fuel gauge will jump from full to 5/6 of tank, to a dead spot (no fuel indicated), then it will settle at 5/6 of a tank... repeats this at 4/6 of a tank, etc. So not quite the original sender's level of precision, but then the Cobalt sender doesn't really work that well in the Goblin tank either. Mine will show empty when there is 3 to 4 gallons left in the tank.

 

[Sluggonaut]

They make aftermarket fuel level senders in lots of different lengths. These aftermarket fuel level senders use some magnetic switches and fixed resistors to measure the fuel level. So your fuel gauge will jump from full to 5/6 of tank, to a dead spot (no fuel indicated), then it will settle at 5/6 of a tank... repeats this at 4/6 of a tank, etc. So not quite the original sender's level of precision, but then the Cobalt sender doesn't really work that well in the Goblin tank either. Mine will show empty when there is 3 to 4 gallons left in the tank.

Thanks Ross!

I see there are varying lengths and will have to measure once my kit arrives. A 6-position option is definitely better than none and sounds like it may be better than factory, as I know I would start ignoring the gauge if there's still over a 1/3 of a tank left at E.

Is that a common issue with the factory sending unit or is yours a unique experience?

 

[Ross]

I'm sure if I spent more time bending the wire on the fuel float I could get it to read better. Since everyone bends the Cobalt one to fit, there is probably unique fuel gauges in each goblin.

 

[Sluggonaut]

It feels like I haven't worked on the project in months and the only hours I have to log is time spent selling parts. I really didn't want to deal with selling stuff on FB Marketplace, but I am glad I did. I've recovered over $1400 so far and while it has not been without the normal FB Marketplace annoyances, it hasn't been all that bad and I've been able to help some people out.

I have also found that most of my sales have been to people who were just trying to keep their daily drivers together. I've come down in price or thrown in other parts with the sale on several occasions and have still recovered about half of my original investment. I'll probably hit $2k recovered once I sell the doors and exhaust, which is far better than I thought I would do and easily worth the inconveniences experienced while selling.

Every time I see a picture of a donor shell getting hauled away with lights, sunroof, bumpers, doors, hood, trunk deck/wing I cringe and think how much money is being hauled away.

The next step is to try and not spend too much money on parts while I wait for kit delivery.

 

[Ghostknife]

It feels like I haven't worked on the project in months and the only hours I have to log is time spent selling parts. I really didn't want to deal with selling stuff on FB Marketplace, but I am glad I did. I've recovered over $1400 so far and while it has not been without the normal FB Marketplace annoyances, it hasn't been all that bad and I've been able to help some people out.

I have also found that most of my sales have been to people who were just trying to keep their daily drivers together. I've come down in price or thrown in other parts with the sale on several occasions and have still recovered about half of my original investment. I'll probably hit $2k recovered once I sell the doors and exhaust, which is far better than I thought I would do and easily worth the inconveniences experienced while selling.

Every time I see a picture of a donor shell getting hauled away with lights, sunroof, bumpers, doors, hood, trunk deck/wing I cringe and think how much money is being hauled away.

The next step is to try and not spend too much money on parts while I wait for kit delivery.

I am taking my donor apart now. So much to sell off it, how did you price the pieces? I know it will be specific to the area

 

[Sluggonaut]

I just looked at prices online, specifically Facebook groups like 'Cobalt SS Parts'. You can get a feel for good prices by checking the listings and if you list something that is too much (or even too little) people will comment. I had a lot more offers once I joined that group, but it's not a local group so I had to entertain shipping stuff.

It is Facebook of course so get ready for some really stupid comments. One guy told me I was asking too much for my exhaust and my price was higher than what a new one cost. I was asking $400 for an entire 3" ZZP exhaust. Not sure where I can buy that for less new. I ended up selling my LNF downpipe separately and if my current offer on the catback goes through I will have $450 for the whole thing. lol

A few people commented on what I was asking for my seats and told me what they were able to get for their LNF seats, but I had offers before I lowered the price and the final negotiated price was somewhere between their experience and what I was asking. Apparently, people are paying up for 2005-2007 SS stuff, as it's getting harder to find in good shape.

It is a hassle to sell stuff and at some point, I'm going to just give what is left to the first interested party. However, with a project like this something will always be a hassle or inconvenience and the money I recovered from selling parts will go towards tools or parts that I may have hesitated to buy otherwise.

 

[Ghostknife]

I just looked at prices online, specifically Facebook groups like 'Cobalt SS Parts'. You can get a feel for good prices by checking the listings and if you list something that is too much (or even too little) people will comment. I had a lot more offers once I joined that group, but it's not a local group so I had to entertain shipping stuff.

It is Facebook of course so get ready for some really stupid comments. One guy told me I was asking too much for my exhaust and my price was higher than what a new one cost. I was asking $400 for an entire 3" ZZP exhaust. Not sure where I can buy that for less new. I ended up selling my LNF downpipe separately and if my current offer on the catback goes through I will have $450 for the whole thing. lol

A few people commented on what I was asking for my seats and told me what they were able to get for their LNF seats, but I had offers before I lowered the price and the final negotiated price was somewhere between their experience and what I was asking. Apparently, people are paying up for 2005-2007 SS stuff, as it's getting harder to find in good shape.

It is a hassle to sell stuff and at some point, I'm going to just give what is left to the first interested party. However, with a project like this something will always be a hassle or inconvenience and the money I recovered from selling parts will go towards tools or parts that I may have hesitated to buy otherwise.

Thanks for the reply, I priced it all to hopefully get it gone quickly. Don’t wanna store much in the basement.