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V1 Deviant Goblin - Extended Track #373 | 07 SS/SC donor
Desert Sasqwatch
Bigfoot Goblin
- Desert Sasqwatch Bigfoot Goblin
devianteng
Well-Known Member
- devianteng Well-Known Member
March 28, 2022
Another productive weekend on the wire harness. Earlier this week I finished video 5, and between Saturday and Sunday I completed videos 6, 7, and 8. Watching ahead a little, I'm expecting the next 3 videos to be a little more time consuming and with upcoming plans for this coming weekend, I suspect it will be 2 weeks before I finish the wiring harness.
I've spent a lot of time thinking about roof bars, and I believe I'm just going to keep it simple and do the double roof bars down the middle (picture 2 in my previous post). One of my personality traits is to do things different than everyone else, and that's the primary reason I was considering alternatives to picture 2. But, there's a reason that style is the most popular amongst other builders and I need to stick to that. Hope to pick up a tubing soon and get those cut to length, notched, and welded up around the same time I finish the harness. I also need to pick up some sheet steel (currently thinking thickness around 14 to 16 gauge) to cut and weld some tabs in for side panel plates. The last thing I need to figure before is I need to weld in a new harness bar, but I haven't fully decided my seats yet (thinking Kirkey 65's, 18.5" wide). So decide seats, order a seat, test fit, determine if a new harness bar is needed, the cut/weld one in. Maybe I can get the frame ready for powder coat before the end of April.
Another productive weekend on the wire harness. Earlier this week I finished video 5, and between Saturday and Sunday I completed videos 6, 7, and 8. Watching ahead a little, I'm expecting the next 3 videos to be a little more time consuming and with upcoming plans for this coming weekend, I suspect it will be 2 weeks before I finish the wiring harness.
I've spent a lot of time thinking about roof bars, and I believe I'm just going to keep it simple and do the double roof bars down the middle (picture 2 in my previous post). One of my personality traits is to do things different than everyone else, and that's the primary reason I was considering alternatives to picture 2. But, there's a reason that style is the most popular amongst other builders and I need to stick to that. Hope to pick up a tubing soon and get those cut to length, notched, and welded up around the same time I finish the harness. I also need to pick up some sheet steel (currently thinking thickness around 14 to 16 gauge) to cut and weld some tabs in for side panel plates. The last thing I need to figure before is I need to weld in a new harness bar, but I haven't fully decided my seats yet (thinking Kirkey 65's, 18.5" wide). So decide seats, order a seat, test fit, determine if a new harness bar is needed, the cut/weld one in. Maybe I can get the frame ready for powder coat before the end of April.
Last edited:
Sluggonaut
Goblin Guru
- Sluggonaut Goblin Guru
You can buy trick tabs for the panels to save time in fabricating tabs. They come with holes or tapped holes.
I have this link saved from another thread somewhere here on the forum.
I have this link saved from another thread somewhere here on the forum.
devianteng
Well-Known Member
- devianteng Well-Known Member
Oh, this is awesome! Can even get them with pressed in threaded inserts so weld and go (but thread clean up after powder coating wouldn't be fun, me thinks). This will definitely save time, so thanks for sharing!
Sluggonaut
Goblin Guru
- Sluggonaut Goblin Guru
If your powder coater doesn't plug holes during their process, just put some cheap sacrificial blots in before dropping it off.
Ross
Goblin Professor
- Ross Goblin Professor
Sacrificial bolts... or ear plugs... I mean thread protectors. If they can handle the heat... You might want to test this...
Sluggonaut
Goblin Guru
- Sluggonaut Goblin Guru
Mine too. I assumed everyone did this but it doesn't sound like this is the case.
devianteng
Well-Known Member
- devianteng Well-Known Member
I found these for literally half the price and cheaper shipping, and bought 3 sets (30 tabs). I've got a case full of nutserts, so I went with the non-threaded.
Also got a couple 3' pieces of tube ordered (actually cheaper than driving 45 minutes each way to my nearest supplier) so with any luck I will have everything welded up in the next week or two and can get powder coating scheduled!
devianteng
Well-Known Member
- devianteng Well-Known Member
April 09, 2022
Quite a bit done between yesterday and day. Wire harness video 10 completed, leaving only video 11 left which is basically tying grounds together, testing, and final harness wrap. Getting close to a big mile stone!
Also spent some time on my donor engine (stock LSJ). When I bought the donor, it had "no clutch" and was told by the previous owner that it had a new clutch installed but he could get the slave to bleed properly (I suspect he installed it himself). I had planned to swap a new stage clutch either way, so this wasn't a deal breaker with the car and the engine itself ran well. Today I separated the trans from the engine and immediately saw issues with the clutch. The clutch looked new, but the fingers were stuck in it seemed, which was very odd.
Started to take the clutch off and clutch plate just started falling apart. My guess, it was installed incorrectly and blew apart on first start. Throw out bearing looks good, but it's VERY greasy and nasty in here.
Got the engine on the stand, so I can start cleaning it up and giving everything a once over. Got absolutely robbed by Ace hardware for a few bolts to mount the engine to the engine stand...$28 for 4 bolts, 8 washers, 2 lock washers, and 2 nuts. Will order and install a dual pass endplate, but not sure that I really plan to do anything else. Long term plan is turbo swap, so no sense buying a smaller pulley, phenolic spacer, or anything else that would require retuning. But, I want to go through the intake and inspect the laminova cores, replace o-rings, etc.
And of course, here is the latest on my main harness!
Quite a bit done between yesterday and day. Wire harness video 10 completed, leaving only video 11 left which is basically tying grounds together, testing, and final harness wrap. Getting close to a big mile stone!
Also spent some time on my donor engine (stock LSJ). When I bought the donor, it had "no clutch" and was told by the previous owner that it had a new clutch installed but he could get the slave to bleed properly (I suspect he installed it himself). I had planned to swap a new stage clutch either way, so this wasn't a deal breaker with the car and the engine itself ran well. Today I separated the trans from the engine and immediately saw issues with the clutch. The clutch looked new, but the fingers were stuck in it seemed, which was very odd.
Started to take the clutch off and clutch plate just started falling apart. My guess, it was installed incorrectly and blew apart on first start. Throw out bearing looks good, but it's VERY greasy and nasty in here.
Got the engine on the stand, so I can start cleaning it up and giving everything a once over. Got absolutely robbed by Ace hardware for a few bolts to mount the engine to the engine stand...$28 for 4 bolts, 8 washers, 2 lock washers, and 2 nuts. Will order and install a dual pass endplate, but not sure that I really plan to do anything else. Long term plan is turbo swap, so no sense buying a smaller pulley, phenolic spacer, or anything else that would require retuning. But, I want to go through the intake and inspect the laminova cores, replace o-rings, etc.
And of course, here is the latest on my main harness!
devianteng
Well-Known Member
- devianteng Well-Known Member
Yup, that's in the plans! I just haven't had a chance to really look over everything and make a list of what I want to do, but the throwout bearing will definitely get replaced.
devianteng
Well-Known Member
- devianteng Well-Known Member
M12 1.75 bolts. I used 2 that were 80mm in length for the top of the trans mounting area (these threaded right into the block), and I used 2 others that were 110mm in length through lower trans mount holes that are not threaded. Those 2 lower ones I used lock washers and nuts. Also grabbed 8 flat washers so i could stack those as needed.
devianteng
Well-Known Member
- devianteng Well-Known Member
April 10, 2022
Finished the wire harness (well, basically)! Still need to tape up the headlight wires and other things on that end, but otherwise I have completed everything with the harness (including testing of the grounds). Feels like a huge milestone!
I have a question though and hope to get a quick answer. The 2 purple wires that I zipped tied to the harness (one near the EPS connector, and the other back near the fuse block), these are power-on-key wires, right? What about the red with white wire that I also zipped tied to the harness near the EPS connector, is this always-hot or another power-on-key wire?
Aside from the harness, I also got the transmission cleaned up decently well, and visually inspected what I could.
And lastly, stripped the engine down to just the long block. Definitely need to clean the engine up, clean and tape up the engine harness, and find missing bolts. Exhaust manifold was missing 2 nuts. The big bolt on the bottom/rear of the intake manifold was also missing. Transmission bolt was missing, and so were a few other miscellaneous things were missing, or just "finger tight". Definitely worth taking the time to go through everything.
Good news is the top end looks great, as it should since it was professionally gone through a few months prior to me buying the donor. Valvetrain looks fantastic and confirmed things like new gaskets (valve cover and head gasket), ARP studs were used, new style timing chain tensioner, timing chain good and tight, etc. I can also tell the oil pan has been off somewhat recently, and I was told the previous owner put in new rod bearings so this makes sense. All in all, should have a good, healthy stock-spec engine (which was running fine before teardown).
Next up, start making a list of engine/trans parts I want to replace or add. No mods that would require a retune at this point though, as I will save that after I am on the street. But I know I need a new clutch, throwout bearing, flywheel, for example. Just need to get all these things listed out. I am also considering replacing the OEM water-cooled oil cooler, and going with a remote mount air-cooled oil cooler (using ZZP or OTTL Oil Cooler Adapter). Lastly, I'm starting to think about seats and wheels. For seats, I'm thinking the Kirkey 65 Series 18.5", if they'll fit (would like to order one, test fit, and if it's a go order the Kirkey floor mount and get that welded in before powder coating). For wheels, I am thinking I should get the redrilled hubs from DF (5x114.3) but I'd like to get feedback on that. Wheel size, I'm thinking 17x7.5? No clue on the offset...picking out wheels is something I've always struggled with. Any feedback would be awesome!
Finished the wire harness (well, basically)! Still need to tape up the headlight wires and other things on that end, but otherwise I have completed everything with the harness (including testing of the grounds). Feels like a huge milestone!
I have a question though and hope to get a quick answer. The 2 purple wires that I zipped tied to the harness (one near the EPS connector, and the other back near the fuse block), these are power-on-key wires, right? What about the red with white wire that I also zipped tied to the harness near the EPS connector, is this always-hot or another power-on-key wire?
Aside from the harness, I also got the transmission cleaned up decently well, and visually inspected what I could.
And lastly, stripped the engine down to just the long block. Definitely need to clean the engine up, clean and tape up the engine harness, and find missing bolts. Exhaust manifold was missing 2 nuts. The big bolt on the bottom/rear of the intake manifold was also missing. Transmission bolt was missing, and so were a few other miscellaneous things were missing, or just "finger tight". Definitely worth taking the time to go through everything.
Good news is the top end looks great, as it should since it was professionally gone through a few months prior to me buying the donor. Valvetrain looks fantastic and confirmed things like new gaskets (valve cover and head gasket), ARP studs were used, new style timing chain tensioner, timing chain good and tight, etc. I can also tell the oil pan has been off somewhat recently, and I was told the previous owner put in new rod bearings so this makes sense. All in all, should have a good, healthy stock-spec engine (which was running fine before teardown).
Next up, start making a list of engine/trans parts I want to replace or add. No mods that would require a retune at this point though, as I will save that after I am on the street. But I know I need a new clutch, throwout bearing, flywheel, for example. Just need to get all these things listed out. I am also considering replacing the OEM water-cooled oil cooler, and going with a remote mount air-cooled oil cooler (using ZZP or OTTL Oil Cooler Adapter). Lastly, I'm starting to think about seats and wheels. For seats, I'm thinking the Kirkey 65 Series 18.5", if they'll fit (would like to order one, test fit, and if it's a go order the Kirkey floor mount and get that welded in before powder coating). For wheels, I am thinking I should get the redrilled hubs from DF (5x114.3) but I'd like to get feedback on that. Wheel size, I'm thinking 17x7.5? No clue on the offset...picking out wheels is something I've always struggled with. Any feedback would be awesome!
- Gtstorey Goblin Guru
The purple wire is typically the fog light wire, but not sure where you got two of them. It isn't hot unless the trigger wire from the original switch is grounded. I think the DF supplied switches have that included if you got that option. Basically the fog light wires are only good for lights without doing some other relay grounding/jumping. The Red/white should be switched power I think.
