Goblin Rear Control Arms

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Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
I was going to say probably not worth it, but it looks like they have lowered the price quite a bit (now $125 for the rear bushings and $140 for the front) and might be worth the money. I'm not sure if anyone on here is running them since the price was so high, especially the front.

Since the car is so light it won't make as much a difference as on a full weight cobalt.
 
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Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
I also see that OTTP will let you add Turbo control arms to your cart. I don't know if that means they have some or just don't keep stock status updated.
 
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Chubbs

Well-Known Member
Gtstorey said:
Since the car is so light it won't make as much a difference as on a full weight cobalt.
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My thoughts exactly. As long as your bushings are in good condition, I can't imagine them flexing enough under the weight of the goblin to be an issue. Seems like your money would be better spent on tires and driver training than bushings.

But, I'm definitely interested. If you get new bushings and they make a big difference, I'd like to hear it so I can do the same mod!
 
Ross

Ross

Goblin Guru
The stock rubber bushings are a problem. The Moog or OTTP ones are a big improvement.
If you put a camera on your rear suspension and do a hard acceleration, you will see the issue.
Basically the rear swingarms move, causing the rear tires tow in and tow out depending on acceleration and braking.
 
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Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
I did order the OTTP front bushings. I already have the Moog rear and they made a difference. I was tempted to go ahead and order the OTTP rear but cheaped out. If I didn't already have the Moog I would order the OTTP rear at their current sale price.
 
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r3drckt

Goblin Guru
I'm still hoping that DF comes out with their rear control arm kit :( But I feel it will die in the R&D phase due to costs.
 
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Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
Probably not a lot of difference and that's why I didn't order the OTTP rear at 4X price at the time. Might have given them a try at 2x price though. The moog price is for 1, the OTTP is for 2.
Chubbs said:
Looking at the MOOG option, it's beefy. A complete spherical bearing.


Doesn't seem like there would be any flex in that at all. I'm not sure why the OTTP version is worth 4x as much, except maybe it's prettier.
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finazzoty

Well-Known Member
Welp - I'll be the guinea pig lol I just ordered them. I'm a little bit of a ways away from having the car ready to drive but as soon as its on the road, I'll keep ya'll posted on how they are
 
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Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
finazzoty said:
Welp - I'll be the guinea pig lol I just ordered them. I'm a little bit of a ways away from having the car ready to drive but as soon as its on the road, I'll keep ya'll posted on how they are
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Build it with the stock bushings to start with and then install OTTP so you can really see the change.
 
Rttoys

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
I have the ottp on mine and installed them on another goblin. I have also installed the moog’s on 2 other goblins.

ottp is much beefier than the moogs and they are also much harder to press in. Ottp are also “rebuildable”, so that’s a plus, but I doubt you’ll ever need too.

I don’t think you can go wrong with either one, though and wouldn’t hesitate to buy either one. I do think no matter what, the stock bushings have to go.
 
Vwsaabvt

Vwsaabvt

Goblin Guru


I have the ottp front and rear in my car, Haven't driven a goblin without them in so I don't know if they were worth it or not.
 
ColoradoCryptoTrader

ColoradoCryptoTrader

Well-Known Member
finazzoty said:
Thanks for the help guys - I had actually placed an order for the Moog's and cancelled it once I saw that OOTP made some. Any further thoughts on whether or not they are worth the coin? I also saw that they make bushings for the front:
View attachment 32444
Is it worth it to go ahead and replace these as well before the control arms go in?
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the prothane version looks identical, but I had to buy the entire prothane kit just for those bushings it was around $70 vs OTTP @ $140

32463
 
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Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
Installed my OTTP front lower control arm bushings this weekend, and unless it was a change to my alignment, it made a big difference. I already had the Moog rear bushings and these were new control arms. It got rid of the correction required after turn in that I hated. The car now feels like it is on rails and turns in on a constant arc. I reduced the the toe from about 1/8”-3/16” per wheel (measured across a 17” wheel) to about 1/16” after install, which should have sped up the turn in. Assuming it’s not the alignment change, I can’t overstate how much improved the steering is. Reminds me more of riding a motorcycle now, just point the car where you want it go and it goes there.
 
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Chubbs

Well-Known Member
Gtstorey said:
Installed my OTTP front lower control arm bushings this weekend
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How stiff is the bushing material?

If that delrin plastic on the ottp version is really stiff, I'll probably go that route. I like the price of the prothane version much better, but replacing rubber with urethane still results in some flex. Just not as much.

I put the Moog bushings on the rear, and they helped a bunch. There is still just a hint of flex though, I think it must be coming from the front bushing.
 
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Chubbs

Well-Known Member
Perhaps this is a stupid question, but here we go....

Why do we need any flex at all in the front bushing? It appears the arm just moves up and down. OTTP seems to agree, since they are using a very stiff material for a bushing. So, why not just cut all that out, and use a bearing? Zero flex at all. Seems like it would be cheaper too, wouldn't it?

While I'm on the topic, the rear spherical bearing doesn't seem necessary either. Doesn't it only move on one axis? Why is it a spherical bearing, when all we need is a hinge? Or does it need to move in other directions?
 
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Dsteinhorst

Well-Known Member
Its all because in the Cobalt, reducing NVH is the prime goal. I put the problem solvers in my PT cruiser, and the increase in NVH is fairly substantial.
 
Dale E

Dale E

Well-Known Member
For the main stream street driven Goblin, the stock Cobalt suspension is fine. Only if you are a serious autocross or track day contender do you need to beef up the soft mounts to a more durable harder compound. My 16 year old Stalker has Delrin bushings in the front suspension and they have been lightly oiled. I have no play or wiggle in them. The newest Stalkers as well as other cars for the autocross and track use market have Heim jointed parts. With the stock Cobalt parts you get the issue of NVH mostly taken care of. With the harder compounds and Heim joints you get more solid attachment but you get some NVH return.

You guys are and have built a fantastic machine. Decide where you want to go with it in the future and make it happen.
 
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Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
My Goblin is a street only car not likely to ever see a racetrack and my recommendation for the upgraded front and rear control arm bushings stand. Maybe I just hit some magical alignment setting that worked instead of being the front bushing but whatever it was made a big difference for a curvy road. If you have a car with high mileage on the bushings then for sure consider changing them to better ones.
 
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