Goblin Rear Control Arms

C

Chubbs

Well-Known Member
I totally get the NVH argument, for a stock cobalt. But OTTP didn't care about NVH, because racecar. Yet they chose delrin instead of hard steel or aluminum. Because it's self lubricating maybe?

Still, it seems like a bearing would be better. Maybe they couldn't find a bearing that could handle the load?
 
G

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
If you are talking about the front bushing, the bearing would have to be very small to work with the existing geometry. If you are talking about the rear, you would have to completely change how it would work and mount and would still likely end up with a small bearing again. Eventually you end up with having to completely rework the rear suspension similar to what DF was working on.
 
k.rollin

k.rollin

Goblin Guru
Vwsaabvt said:


I have the ottp front and rear in my car, Haven't driven a goblin without them in so I don't know if they were worth it or not.
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How was the installation of the OTTP leading control arm bushing kit for you? I broke the flange off of one of my delrin sleeves because apparently either my control arm bores are undersized (1.332") or the OD of the delrin sleeves is oversized (1.365"). Either way, there's over .030" difference between the two dimensions, which is way too much interference.
 
G

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
No problem getting the delrin bushings in which I did first without the shaft. Just a little bit of trouble getting the shaft through without pushing the bushing back out but nothing a large C clamp couldn’t handle.
 
Joebob

Joebob

Goblin Guru
Rttoys said:
I have the ottp on mine and installed them on another goblin. I have also installed the moog’s on 2 other goblins.

ottp is much beefier than the moogs and they are also much harder to press in. Ottp are also “rebuildable”, so that’s a plus, but I doubt you’ll ever need too.

I don’t think you can go wrong with either one, though and wouldn’t hesitate to buy either one. I do think no matter what, the stock bushings have to go.
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What did you use to press them in? I tried the ball joint clamp and cannot get them going in straight.

Joe
 
Rttoys

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
Joebob said:
What did you use to press them in? I tried the ball joint clamp and cannot get them going in straight.

Joe
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My 15th press I have here at the shop, plus some “custom” adaptors I made.

freezing the bushings and heating up the arm helps a ton though.
 
Rttoys

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
Are you using moog or ottp? Ottp are very tight. I can press them in for you if you want, though.
 
Sluggonaut

Sluggonaut

Goblin Guru
It cost me $50 to have the shop in town remove the stock ones and press in the new ones. I figured it was cheaper than a press from HF.

He also drilled out the one ball joint that was still riveted on. The other one had already been replaced and was bolted on.
 
F

finazzoty

Well-Known Member
Vwsaabvt said:


I have the ottp front and rear in my car, Haven't driven a goblin without them in so I don't know if they were worth it or not.
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How important is it that these things are PERFECTLY flush with the socket in the control arm on both sides? Mine is ever so slightly crooked, truly ever so slightly
 
F

finazzoty

Well-Known Member
Gtstorey said:
Really not sure what you are asking. Which bushings?
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I apologize - I was at the end of my patience and mental capacity yesterday when I finally posted this lol
So first,
This is what I was talking about:
BF872E01-CE03-4F2C-A14C-238D774E39B3.jpeg


Also, how does this come out? And in which direction?
3F864E5E-2C76-4EF8-97C1-F43AC914709D.jpeg


The bushings I’m putting in are OTTP
 
Desert Sasqwatch

Desert Sasqwatch

Bigfoot Goblin
Removing the old bushing: drill out the rubber from around the bar or burn out the rubber or just plain bruit force to pull/push the steel bar out. Use whatever method works, as long as the control arm is not damaged.
 
G

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
How are you installing the rear bushings? Are the flush on the other side? I guess being a little uneven probably won't hurt anything, but not sure why you can't get them even.

The metal "bar" of the rear bushing can be cut off if using a press so you can push in toward the arm. If not using a press, then D.S. suggestions but it will be a pain in the @$$. Even with a press it was a little hard since no good way to situate it.
 
Waterdriver

Waterdriver

Goblin Guru
finazzoty said:
I apologize - I was at the end of my patience and mental capacity yesterday when I finally posted this lol
So first,
This is what I was talking about:
View attachment 38443

Also, how does this come out? And in which direction?View attachment 38444

The bushings I’m putting in are OTTP
Click to expand...
This is how I did it. What you need: utility knife, bench vise, propane torch (optional) On the right side of the pic, with a utility knife, cut away as much of the rubber bushing lip. You can do the left side as well to release as much surface tension as possible. Heating the inner steel bar will help soften up the rubber. Also little wd40 on the blade helps slice through the rubber.

Then place the bushing end of the control arm in the vise jaws, crudely drawn in the pic, and start tightening down the vise. It's kind of a balancing act, but doable. Add a little wd40 to areas of the bushing to help it slide out.
20230216_070221.jpg
 
Rttoys

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
I don’t think I got any of the Ottp bushings completely straight. Even with the freeze and heat trick, they were still a pain to install.
 
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