Goblin Rear Control Arms
- Thread starter Iwanttogofast
- Start date
This is how engineering is done.
Not even a joke. I've been involved in multi-million dollar projects where the words "I need a bunch of clamps and a really big hammer" were said. And then science happens.
A LOT more truth here than MANY would ever admit....
I was on the FSAE team in college and this is exactly correct. Just because something hasn't been done before, doesn't mean it can't be
ah.b.normal
Goblin Guru
Some times you gotta build the wrong thing based on WAG's in order to imagine and build the right thing. Sometimes you need a bigger hammer and sometimes you need to stop and take a second look.
Floyd
Member
I had mentioned this in my build thread, but I wanted to see more opinions.
My goblin does not have the "control arm support brackets". They are referred to in the Haynes manual as "movement limiting brackets". There are 4 of them: one for each of the bolts that attach the control arms to the sides of the subframe.
Here, is where the manual warns to be sure to reinstall them, or "handling could be affected."
Curious if I should I look into buying a set, or is the Haynes manual off base and there is no reason to get them?
Has anyone run with and without and had any difference?
I have already taken the biggest step and installed the Moog K201285 bushings.
My goblin does not have the "control arm support brackets". They are referred to in the Haynes manual as "movement limiting brackets". There are 4 of them: one for each of the bolts that attach the control arms to the sides of the subframe.
Here, is where the manual warns to be sure to reinstall them, or "handling could be affected."
Curious if I should I look into buying a set, or is the Haynes manual off base and there is no reason to get them?
Has anyone run with and without and had any difference?
I have already taken the biggest step and installed the Moog K201285 bushings.
Fozda
Goblin Guru
Joebob
Goblin Guru
It is the black thing, next to the other black things. In my view, they are impact protection for the rubber bushings for the life of the control arm and should not affect short term handling performance i.e, they keep the bushing from going bad but not help in any handling aspect.
Joe
Ross
Goblin Guru
k.rollin
Goblin Guru
I had them on mine up until I installed the OTTP delrin bushing kit; they don't fit properly over the new pivot pin.I had mentioned this in my build thread, but I wanted to see more opinions.
My goblin does not have the "control arm support brackets". They are referred to in the Haynes manual as "movement limiting brackets". There are 4 of them: one for each of the bolts that attach the control arms to the sides of the subframe.
View attachment 38670
Here, is where the manual warns to be sure to reinstall them, or "handling could be affected."
Curious if I should I look into buying a set, or is the Haynes manual off base and there is no reason to get them?
Has anyone run with and without and had any difference?
I have already taken the biggest step and installed the Moog K201285 bushings.
Andy
Well-Known Member
I put urethane bushings in mine I think from redline. I am mainly a road car with some autocross. Stiffer than stock but enough dampening to still take out the jolts. I have ran cars with full rod end setups and it does make the car tighter but you feel it when you hit a seam in the concrete. And drives the suspension loads up from not providing any dampening so you can wear components out quicker not likely a problem on the goblin.
Robinjo
Goblin Guru
You feel every seam/bump in the road in a Goblin with the stock rubber bushings. Or, at least I do.....
You might want to play with your suspension settings. I've been surprised how well mine actually rides. It's better than my stock C4 Corvette and similar to (or maybe better) my upgraded suspension Gen5 Camaro. And my Goblin has the OTTP Delrin front bushing and the Moog Problem Solver rear bushing.
Robinjo
Goblin Guru
I did have my rears set WAY too hard. I was at 4-clicks away from hardest and recently put them at 4-clicks from softest (I think last weekend or the one before). It made a huge difference in feeling and being planted. I feel the bumps a lot less, but they are still there. Not bad, but the vehicle doesn't just roll over them like my CX50 or Sienna either.
I did an autocross with them at the hard setting and the rear came around really easily. It being a high of 35 that day didn't help the tires grip, but I suspect a lot of it was how stiff the suspension was.
I did an autocross with them at the hard setting and the rear came around really easily. It being a high of 35 that day didn't help the tires grip, but I suspect a lot of it was how stiff the suspension was.
Desert Sasqwatch
Bigfoot Goblin
Note, stiffer in the rear induces oversteer - whether that is by heavier springs, a swaybar added (or up sized) and tightening up the shock/struts - it's all the same. Without doing anything to the front to compensate/rebalance will induce an end swap under hard driving conditions.