Goblin Rear Control Arms

[Iwanttogofast]

I'm not yet ready to install many of my suspension components, but I realized today that my powder coater did not return my notes with my coated parts. I'm able to figure out most of it from pictures that I had taken beforehand. However, I am not sure on the orientation of my control arms for the rear of the Goblin (front of the Cobalt). There are numbers stamped on one side of the control arms (9482-3 on one, 9483-3 on the other), but not sure if the numbers face up or down during installation, or which control arm goes to which side. I removed the factory ball joints, so not sure which side of the control arm the new ball joints go on. Help?

 

[ColoradoCryptoTrader]

just match the orientations in this picture
how the heck did powder coat stick to the rubber parts? I took all of the bushings out of my control arms before painting.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

I'm not yet ready to install many of my suspension components, but I realized today that my powder coater did not return my notes with my coated parts. I'm able to figure out most of it from pictures that I had taken beforehand. However, I am not sure on the orientation of my control arms for the rear of the Goblin (front of the Cobalt). There are numbers stamped on one side of the control arms (9482-3 on one, 9483-3 on the other), but not sure if the numbers face up or down during installation, or which control arm goes to which side. I removed the factory ball joints, so not sure which side of the control arm the new ball joints go on. Help? View attachment 31989

The arm on the left is oriented up and is the passenger side, the one on the right is oriented facing down and needs to be flipped upright for the driver side.
The powder coating needs to be removed from the rear bushings before installing the arms, since they have to move feely.

 

[Iwanttogofast]

just match the orientations in this picture
how the heck did powder coat stick to the rubber parts? I took all of the bushings out of my control arms before painting.

The previous owner told me that he had just replaced the Control Arm Bushings prior to his accident - and they did seem new. I figured that I would just leave them in for powder coating, and if they flaked - no big deal. I'm actually surprised at how well the powder coat adhered to the bushings, but still expecting them to flake. If they do - no big deal, and I may just use that as an excuse to go with the Moog spherical ball control arm bearings.

 

[RITDR]

They will probably look good until the bushings start to flex, then it will crack and flake off.

 

[finazzoty]

I had a phone conversation with @Lonny about replacing the stock rubber bushings with Moog steel bushings - what I’ve now realized is I’m not sure if he meant the front or rear bushings (front and rear as the control arms are mounted on the Goblin, that is). Does anyone know?

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

The front lower control arms on the Cobalt become the rear lower control arms on the Goblin. He is referring to the donut shaped bushing at the rear corner of these control arms.
This one.

 

[finazzoty]

Ok that’s what I figured - do you know the part number of the steel bushing he is referring to? I checked Moog’s as well as rockauto website and did not see a full steel bushing

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

This is the Moog bushing.

This is the Moog ball joint - for SS/TC 2008-2010.

 

[Ross]

For my LSJ it is Control Arm Bushing MOOG K201285

 

[gofast]

This is the Moog bushing.
View attachment 32434

This is the Moog ball joint - for SS/TC 2008-2010.

View attachment 32435

I need some clarification. It was my understanding from past posts that the FE5 ball joints had a larger diameter stud and no one, including Moog, made a ball joint of the proper diameter. Have you measured the stud diameter of your old ball joint and Moog K80566? If they are the same, this is good news. Am I right that my 2009 SS/TC has a FE5 suspension?

 

[Gtstorey]

There is some disagreement on whether the moog is the right size ball joint for the SS/TC. Desert Sasq got one that worked but he is the only one that I’m aware of. I tried it and got one that is too small. Someone else contacted Moog tech support and was told they don’t fit.
The FE5 designation doesn’t really cover the ball joint.

 

[Rttoys]

These are the Moog heim bushings. OTTP make some too that are more beefy, but not sure they are worth the extra expense.

 

[k.rollin]

Expand the quote field to read all my comments regarding suspension RPO codes.

Suspension question/clarification

Hey guys. I'm hoping to gain some clarity on the mystery that is front suspension on the Cobalt line. Please correct any of this that is incorrect: All years of the base LS, LT, and Sport (NA 2.4L) came with the FE1 suspension. All years of the SS/SC came with the FE3 suspension. All years...

dfkitcar.com

 

[JBINTX]

These are the Moog heim bushings. OTTP make some too that are more beefy, but not sure they are worth the extra expense.
View attachment 32436

I can read that…….. :0

 

[Rttoys]

Brett missed if for over a month after he installed them.

cody still has said anything about something I did to his wing uprights.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

I need some clarification. It was my understanding from past posts that the FE5 ball joints had a larger diameter stud and no one, including Moog, made a ball joint of the proper diameter. Have you measured the stud diameter of your old ball joint and Moog K80566? If they are the same, this is good news. Am I right that my 2009 SS/TC has a FE5 suspension?

The non-TC ball joints have a 0.750(+/-) inch stub on top. The TC ball joints have a 0.805(+/-) inch stub. Because of the GM suspension codes from year to year, both of these ball joints are considered FE5 parts even though they are not interchangeable. This has caused many problems trying to get replacement parts, as has been discussed at length on the forum.

 

[ColoradoCryptoTrader]

here is a solid rubber ZZP offering. I am using these. REMOVE OEM STEEL RING from control arm before installing these.

Solid Control Arm Bushings

The factory control arm bushing is not solid so it allows the tires to move which is not good for performance. These are upgrades because they are made of solid rubber, they will keep the tires pointed in the right direction.

zzperformance.com

 

[Rttoys]

That’s barely above stock. If you are going through the trouble of pressing in bushings, I would at least do the heim bushings.

pro tip-
Put the bushing in the freezer over night. It makes pressing them in a lot easier. Bonus points for heating up the control arm to also make it easier.

 

[finazzoty]

Thanks for the help guys - I had actually placed an order for the Moog's and cancelled it once I saw that OOTP made some. Any further thoughts on whether or not they are worth the coin? I also saw that they make bushings for the front:

Is it worth it to go ahead and replace these as well before the control arms go in?