OK, I am in a chatty mood it seems so I will give a little update to making my Goblin a more luxurious ride.
First up is I was flicking the turn signal switch on every turn and while running with my high beams would have helped, I bought the 1/2" spacer and longer bolts to gain more clearance. A little pricy but very well made and the nut to secure the splined adapter fits just under the steering wheel.
I also followed
@Rttoys and made a parking brake light and bracket. The original wiring has a single wire that goes to the parking brake switch. With key on, it is powered by the BCM. Just loop that wire up to the steering wheel area and through the tunnel to connect to the parking brake. the brake handle is grounded to the chassis so pulling up on the handle completes the circuit and illuminates the light. I also added door edge guard to the raw fiberglass edge as you can rub it while working the button panel and such. I would recommend a matte version as the glossy reflects in the windscreen.
I bought a couple of bags from Amazon to hold stuff in front like a glove box and between the seats to hold stuff like fix a flat and some tools.
With a recommendation from
@Rttoys I applied some 4" anti-skid tape to the floor to reduce slippage.
Got a cell phone holder so I can log sensors while I drive. Extends, tils, rotates and holds the phone solid. Not autocross tested though.
I also followed a lot of discussion and put aluminum composite panel under the front. I skipped the cone slicing edges for a more subtle and approach angle friendly shape. I haven't peeled the plastic off nor gone more than 30 mph with it on. Knowing this plan, I put rivnuts along the bottom of the front bulkhead panel so I could use that trailing edge to attach the back of the panel. I used the radiator support bolt holes for the mid support and made a simple aluminum plate with some rivnuts to attach the front right behind the radiator. This way I can remove the hood or the panel independently of each other. I originally tried the score and break method of shaping, but found that a bandsaw with standard wood blades cut much better.
I am debating on putting a rubber air dam to the leading edge. Conflicting aero knowledge says yes, it creates a low pressure zone after the air dam causing downforce and some people say keep all the air flowing fast and smooth to lower pressure over the bottom panels. Input requested.
And FINALLY...
I have been having P2138 errors where the car would go into reduced power mode intermittently. Clearing the codes also clears my drive cycle and emission readiness monitors. I read that it is most likely a wiring issue and as we have to extend the wires, we have 12 connects that can be not perfect. Since the two sensors are so sensitive, they are more sensitive to any resistance change compared to a simple supply wire. I didn't want to mess with any of it anymore so I bought a new pedal, connector pigtail, and a length of 6 conductor shielded cable. I installed the pedal, soldered the pigtail ends and fished the shielded cable bundle down the tunnel to the ECM. Opened up the ECM plug loom and spliced the wires in about 6" from the plug to eliminate as much "bad" wire and connections. Plugged it all back together and let idle for 5 minutes to relearn. Have not driven much but noticed the just off idle does not jump from 900 to 1300 rpm but more like to 1100 rpm. maybe the sensor and wiring change but is not as big a jolt at initial tip in.
Sorry no pictures as it looks like nothing changed. Moral of the story, is make sure sensor connections are super secure with low resistance and the DF design allows you to fish front to back new wires if need to.
Whew, I am done.
Joe