Ross's extended city, easy entry Goblin- 06 SS/SC, NW Arkansas

Waterdriver

Goblin Guru
You could add two NACA ducts, one on each side, in the hood just in front off the windscreen.
That'll allow the high pressure air in front of the windscreen to flow into the cockpit area.
 

JBINTX

Goblin Guru
Well that changed things. Keeps the sun off you, but now I get a little more wind on the eyes, and I feel the radiator heat a bit more than before.
I'm hoping that I get some laminar airflow to the mid-mounted wing. Not sure if it will, but I mocked it up with a few sticks of wood.
I did extend the aluminum sheet about 6" behind the roll bar. Now I need to extend the front firewall up, to the hood. This will force the hot radiator wind out the sides and bottom... which might just roll back into the cabin when it gets to the open doors... not sure... someone probably knows the answer, as they have already tested this. I am planning on following @Desert Sasqwatch idea of diverting cool air above the radiator, to the cabin. Maybe that will help pressurize the cabin and keep the hot air outside the door area.
View attachment 25147 View attachment 25148
The footwell if sealed on top to the hood does a pretty good job keeping heat out of the passenger compartment. Some does seep around the sides still though.
DS Tim’s idea of an air inlet in the hood is an interesting idea. I wish he were further along in his build to give some feedback as to how good it works.
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
My wife & I went to the farmers market this morning, and caught a little rain on the way home. With the new windscreen and roof panel, we only caught a little rain on the forehead & face area. The rest of our body didn't get a drop. Wow, that was different.

Camber on the tires looks spot on, nice and flat to the road in the turns. :)
This last race I changed the wheel alignment, lowering the camber to -0.5 degrees so I can plant the whole tire on the road during the corners.
Also raised the caster to 9.5, so that the car will track better at highway speeds.
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Ross

Goblin Guru
Now that my electrical issues are all solved... (my 3rd power steering unit fixed the LAN data issue)
I only have to fix the air leak in the exhaust before I can start tuning again. I think it has been a year since I last tuned.

The muffler has 1/2" cracks top and bottom of both support flanges.
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I cut the muffler loop so I could get at the biggest leak, a big hole near my wideband bung.
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I welded plates over the cracks and hole, and when I rewelded the 2 pieces together, I left them about an inch apart.
I weakened the original braces, and added an expansion loops between the muffler and the pipe.
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A fresh coat of VHT paint, and we are ready for tuning. Oh, and the narrow band will work better, as the engine was running a little rich with the extra oxygen getting in the exhaust, and messing with the fuel mixture.
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Ross

Goblin Guru
Mad Max has a little Goblin AT DNA in him :)
The muffler is pretty thin metal, in order to keep it light, so no surprise that you can't just weld anywhere when mounting it.
Heat expansion also stressed that thin metal too. I probably have over 6000 miles on mine so far... 3 BCM's make it hard to keep track of the actual mileage.
 
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Ross

Goblin Guru
Yes, the pics of my last autocross had the new alignment numbers with the 0.5 camber.
Driving on the road, with 0.5 camber on Toyo Proves 275mm tires, I don't plant the outer edge of the tire. I have to be doing hard cornering, like autocross. It is much better than the 0.7 camber that I had earlier. I have last years 315mm NT05 tires on the rear right now. Waiting for the rest of my new tires to arrive.
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JBINTX

Goblin Guru
Was this with .5 degrees camber and what are your rear tire sizes? Any noticeable improvement im thinking of reducing the camber from 1.5 on 275 tires.
Concur.
I reduced camber to 0.5 as well on 275 Proxes.
The wider tires just do not deform enough under our light load to get the tread face to the road surface.
 
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SmsDetroit

Goblin Guru
I have 255 up front and went down from 1.5 to .5. I have to say the car seemed more stable with more camber. Less dirty on the highway
 

ncgoblin

Well-Known Member
Great thanks for update I’ll give it a try with .5. Did you also notice an improvement with the caster adjustment at highway speeds?
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
Great thanks for update I’ll give it a try with .5. Did you also notice an improvement with the caster adjustment at highway speeds?
Yes, big improvement. It is a lot easier to drive at speed than ever before, but still the hardest to drive on a highway of any vehicle I have here (Dodge, Nissan, Mazda, etc). I'm really hoping that Lonny's new rear suspension gets rid of bump steer, and improves rear roll center, as highway driving isn't relaxing in mad Max. Not yet.
 

SmsDetroit

Goblin Guru
Yes, big improvement. It is a lot easier to drive at speed than ever before, but still the hardest to drive on a highway of any vehicle I have here (Dodge, Nissan, Mazda, etc). I'm really hoping that Lonny's new rear suspension gets rid of bump steer, and improves rear roll center, as highway driving isn't relaxing in mad Max. Not yet.
How much caster are you running?
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
I would like to secure the new windshield to the fiberglass hood, as the prototype will shimy left/right under high wind loads. I could bolt it, like DF did with the stock windshield, or maybe run caulking, which would block small rocks from getting stuck on the sides. What would you guys do?
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I have taken the prototype window off, and adjusted the bottom edge to fit better. now it fits within an 1/8", and I reduced the stress at the sides of the windshield. This is important as the new Tuffak AR2 polycarbonate is about 1/3 thicker than the prototype.
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Windshield mount rail like the DF one would keep the windscreen in place when removing the hood for maintenance. The GA adhesive JB mentioned would make for clean looking installation. IMO. :cool:
 

Waterdriver

Goblin Guru
Maybe one or two center attachment points to reduce the shimmy effect.
Additionally use a rubber self adhesive edging strip on the bottom edge of the windscreen to take up the gap and help seal it to the body.
 
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