Ross's extended city, easy entry Goblin- 06 SS/SC, NW Arkansas

Ross

Ross

Goblin Guru
Gtstorey said:
I cut a hole for the 5th strap into my seats. I glued a piece of strong rubber under the vinyl and installed some harness inserts through the hole.
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Click to expand...
Nice. Thanks! That is easier than re-upholstering the seats.
 
Rauq

Rauq

Goblin Guru
Theoretically the 5th strap counteracts the shoulder belts pulling the lap belts up into the stomach in an impact. I've got my lap belts adjusted where they can't ride up very far at all, but the Corbeaus also help with that. I don't always use the anti-submarine belt when commuting to/from work, but they definitely make a difference when mountain bombing or autocrossing. If you can position the lap belts to want to stay low, it should be an upgrade.

Cam locks that I've used in the past stay attached to one of the lap belts. Releasing any buckles releases all. I've got my latching 5 point set up so it can be unbuckled from outside the car for either seating position in case the driver or passenger need outside assistance in unbuckling. It throws me off when buckling into the passenger seat as it's backwards that way, but I also don't do a lot of that. Not sure if the same principle applies to cam locks, I think you'd end up with it upside-down if you tried to reverse the intended install.

Also, in my circles it's called the gooch strap...
 
Ross

Ross

Goblin Guru
I ordered the blue seat belts, and some grommets to go thru the seats. I will cut a hole thru my seats for the gooch strap.
 
JBINTX

JBINTX

Goblin Guru
Ross said:
I have Bosch injectors, and a bunch of performance parts, for my 2nd engine. I am running a stock LSJ right now.
Click to expand...
Sounds like a second trip back down to the Houston DF Goblin Research and Development Team will be in order once those parts are in a block and humming……. ;)
 
Ross

Ross

Goblin Guru
BCM download the memory notes.

I have 2 BCMs laying around.
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I used 23/64" bit for releasing the rivnuts. Drilled the small end on both rivnuts.
Take the bottom off the BCM, find the 8 pin m95080 memory chip. (The only 8 pin chip on this side of the BCM)
AsProgrammer software from GitHub is here. This was unzipped into ...\Downloads\AsProgrammer_2.0.3a

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Followed directions in this "Resetting the Odometer - How To" thread. and in this "Odometer to Zero - Yay!" thread.

My chips for the 2006 Cobalt were the older ones, Delphi (BCM manufacturer) house number 1001378, which the video said is a ST 95080. You can see the ST logo.
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In the video, the ODO is stored at 3 addresses, 4 bytes long: 03BAx, 03C2 and 03CAx
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The example 4 bytes in this video is 49 B1 00 51, which when corrected for high/low bytes is 0x005149B1 = Decimal 5,327,281
Take the decimal number (5327281) and multiply it by 0.0097089 to unobfuscate it, and you get 51722 miles on the ODO.


When I download the data... It didn't look like the video's data. I have zeroes at 03BAx, 03C2 and 03CAx
I get some data at 0172x and a bit more at 022E . So I did another download, did 20 downloads, didn't get consistent results.
Repositioning on the 8 pin clip was kind of finicky, but I couldn't get a repeatable download.
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So I guess my CH341A chip reader can't read the data it in circuit. So I used ChipQuik rosen, and desoldered the EEPROM chip.
It was hard to desolder. Ended up scratching the surface of the chip with the tweezers.
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But I got it off. I put it in the 8 pin clip, and loaded up the AsProgrammer software.
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But it didn't read it. Went to reposition it in the clip, and it was HOT! So I guess that chip is toast. Went and watch the video again, and realized I was suppose to buy ChipQuik solder. So I got the wrong stuff, that is why it was hard to desolder. Well I still have 1 BCM left. Guess I will order some solder, and try again later.
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The Rosin does nothing to lower the solder temperature :( Live and learn.
 
Ross

Ross

Goblin Guru
The mounts for my heat exchanger are 2 straps of 1" steel, that has been drilled and bent into shape.
The top corner has the filler spot, which is a these parts.
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The 2 corner straps do space the heat exchanger back from the drivers seat - just trying to get a bit more air to it.
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I used hose clamps to hang onto the goblin frame. Cut a slot in the strap steel and bent a curve into the strap.
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The heat exchanger got rivnuts put in them, and used 8-32 bolts to hold onto the strap.
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JBINTX

JBINTX

Goblin Guru
Ross if you learned to ride the unicycle too you would have more room back there…….. :0

Well done!
 
Ross

Ross

Goblin Guru
Lol. That is my unicycle... I even did some muni (mountain uni) today. Ian owns the mountain bike. Technically he is better at muni than I am.
 
Ross

Ross

Goblin Guru
I had a spare SS seat hanging around, some 1" square tubing, and a 1/4" plate.
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An extra SS wheel hub bolts on. I went with the 5x110mm pattern, and kept the ABS wheel sensor, just in case.
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Then add a SS brake disk. I wanted some weight down low.
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Still need to weld on the 5 legs, paint, then bolt on the 5 casters.
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Ross

Ross

Goblin Guru
I forged the ends flat. Then rounded off the sharp corners
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Welded the legs onto the cast brake rotor. My donor came with gold anodized spikey nuts. Perfect for this chair.
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Voila! A shop chair. If you move the sliders back, then you can recline the chair without tipping over.
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Add a little paint
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JBINTX

JBINTX

Goblin Guru
How did you decide where to weld the plate on the bottom of the seat rails front to back?
once completely done give us some more feedback if that plate is in the optimal location.
‘What about the height of seat from ground when done? You good with your dims?
I have been messing with this same idea for one of my son’s old Miata seats for him.
Thanks Ross.
 
Ross

Ross

Goblin Guru
I copied dimensions from a brown 5 wheel chair that was already in my shop. (visible in the picture with the reclined SS chair) The chairs center pivot should basically align with your bung hole, when you are sitting in the chair. With the slides still on my SS chair, I can adjust the center pivot, so when I recline the chair, I slide the chair forward/wheels backwards.

The height of my seat can be adjusted up, as the bolts on both sides of the hub can accomodate 1" spacers. The underside of the brown chair is 14" off the ground, then about 2" or chair base/foam, then your butt. So I made the my SS chair only 13" off the ground, and I can adjust it with spacers, up to a maximum of ~15". I also made my SS chair with the caster wheels farther out from the center pivot. So ~15" from center, rather than 13"
 
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Ross

Ross

Goblin Guru
Thanks to @1966tbird for getting me his 18mm anti sway bar. I decided it will go on before my next autocross in 2 weeks.
I bought the too-long antisway bar links, before I knew I was suppose to get the shorter ones. So I went to the hardware store, bought a 3/8" turnbuckle,
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cut the loops off the end, and welded on the ends of my too-long sway bar links.
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Now I have one adjustable sway bar link. Don't have the scales to cross balance my car, but one step at a time.
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That green circle is a GM custom bolt... with a 10mm hex head inside the frame, and a external torx E10 on the outside. Luckily my 2nd donor still had these in the sub frame. Still need to set the camber on the rear wheels, as I had to swap the rear struts, as I had the swaybar mounts facing forward. Doh! I see I had my shocks set at 25 clicks up from bottom, only 32 clicks in the full range.
 
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