Ross's extended city, easy entry Goblin- 06 SS/SC, NW Arkansas

Ross

Goblin Guru
I'm not sure. I have never moved that harness, but this engine had 140K miles before I owned it, and I don't know its stock location.
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
I bought an ultrasonic cleaner, that can hold half of a Cobalt oil pan, in 7 gallons of hot water and degreaser.
The new cleaner made me want to finish adding a sink to my shop.
Squirrel! So 220 feet of PEX pipe was run to supply cold water,
a small hot water tank was installed with an old sink, faucet and counter that I saved for the shop.
Relocated an old mini fridge (formerly the kids college fridge), and voila! The man cave got an upgrade.
The intake manifold with intercooler is next.
Hopefully the engine paint will last longer, now that I can clean the parts better.
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mike_sno

Goblin Guru
The goblin fan could be wired to run at 3 settings: off, low speed, or high speed. Right now the goblin uses off and high speed.
This would use the AC Pressure 5V sensor which controls the Fan 2 relay and the SER/PAR relay in a Cobalt. (This circuit could be used for other things that might be more important. For example: an oil pressure sensor and an alarm buzzer instead of Fan 2. This circuit value is available on the canbus, so it can be logged by HP Tuners or programmed to show on a canbus gauge.)

You could substitute a resistor for instead of Fan 2, and remove the Cool Fan 2 fuse & relay (so the resistor doesn't turn on without the fan on).
Then add a temperature 0-5V sensor to the engine coolant or engine oil, and wire it to the old cobalt AC Pressure sensor.
Then my radiator fan 1 would be able to run a low speed or full speed, depending on what the PCM wants. I can use HP Tuners to set the tables in the PCM to turn on the fan at full speed.

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The resistor from the interior fan speed control could be repurposed in place of Cooling Fan 2.
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That speed control resistor normally runs in the moving air, to keep it cool.
View attachment 24785

So mounting it behind the radiator fan should be good. Use the wires from Fan2, and route them to this speed resistor pack.
There are multiple speeds available to the interior fan, so you can pick what speed you want. I think I would use light blue wire (med-high speed) or the tan wire (medium speed). I would have to test the radiator fan, and see how fast it runs, and how hot the resistor gets. Only run the lowest speed (yellow wire) if it doesn't overheat the resistor.
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Ross, did you ever use VCM Scanner to monitor the fan desired / fan outputs? I still have the standard fan desired as a fan out table in my tune, but noticed that neither fan desired or fan output change with Etc temperature.
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
No, I never monitored the fan settings in VCM Scanner, but did notice that the fan started turning on and off, and I did watch my engine coolant temp on the gauge cluster information display. I was able to set the engine coolant temperature using the fan settings in HP Tuners.
Is your fan desired not changing because you never get the engine coolant up to the 223F stock setting? That is why I did the work to figure this out. That 223F setting was only on my 2006 Cobalt, as far as I know. I think later years got a more reasonable lower setting.
 
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mike_sno

Goblin Guru
This is the engine coolant vs desired table in my tune. Still untouched.

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While this is what VCM Scanner records.
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I simply thinks that the Scanner is not recording correct. Just wanted to know if you had the same experience.
 

mike_sno

Goblin Guru
I have an LED wired to the Fan 1 output, will change it to Fan 2 and play around with it before I connect the fan to it.
 

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
What are you trying to do? The percentage doesn’t directly mean anything and it not unusual for some things in HPT scanner to not do what you expect either or to return values that mean anything.
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
The ultrasonic parts washer is getting steady use. New paint on half the engine now.
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I noticed that 3 of the 8 bypass holes in my thermostat were blocked. On the other side, I see a rubber piece jammed in the valve.
Is the thermostat suppose to have rubber over all 8 holes, or is this a piece of debris that needs to be removed?
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