Desert Sasqwatch
Bigfoot Goblin
Ross, you will have your car so clean and spotless you won't want to take it out of the garage! 
Ross's extended city, easy entry Goblin- 06 SS/SC, NW Arkansas
- Thread starter Ross
- Start date
Desert Sasqwatch
Bigfoot Goblin
Ross, believe these are M8 bolts, correct? Most all torque charts show 190-240 in.lb. for the M8. Should be about right, since these are only accessories and not internal engine bolts.
M10 is shown at 45 ft.lb., just in case.
M10 is shown at 45 ft.lb., just in case.
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That paint job....
Ross
Goblin Guru
I should have looked on my old LSJ, as bolts 1, 2 & 3 are labeled at 74 foot pounds, and bolt 5 is 18 foot pounds. The other bolts, I took DS's advice, and torque it based on the bolt size.
Today I painted and installed the starter, intercooler pump, alternator and 3 brackets. Still cleaning the valve cover. The internal baffles are making it a slow process, as the ultrasonic cleaner is the only thing getting in there, and I don't want to drill out the rivets.
Today I painted and installed the starter, intercooler pump, alternator and 3 brackets. Still cleaning the valve cover. The internal baffles are making it a slow process, as the ultrasonic cleaner is the only thing getting in there, and I don't want to drill out the rivets.
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Ross
Goblin Guru
I pulled the thermostat out of both my LSJ engines, and they both had deteriorated rubber at the coolant valve, that was holding the valve a little bit open. The new thermostat doesn't have 8 holes, so it should fully close when cold. I wonder if the old leaky thermostat was why my goblin always ran a little cool, around 180F. Guess I will find out, once I put this goblin back together.
I put new seals on the differential, then installed the half shaft on one side. Got the first coat of blue on it. Needs sanding to smooth it out, but just keep cleaning, just keep painting.
If I need to find what paint colors are used:
Still has the masking tape on it.
I put new seals on the differential, then installed the half shaft on one side. Got the first coat of blue on it. Needs sanding to smooth it out, but just keep cleaning, just keep painting.
If I need to find what paint colors are used:
Still has the masking tape on it.
Hi Ross,I fixed these a while ago, but am adding the $8 intercooler pump fix, and the fix to the radiator fan, to my build log.
I finally figured out how the fans work on my 2006 Cobalt SS. I was able to reduce the temperature that the fan turns on at, which was pretty high (223F on, 217F off) on the factory chevy settings. This is HP Tuners, VCM Editor software:
View attachment 11351
Fan 1 is my engine coolant fan, (purple lines), it switches on (1) when the engine temp is higher than ~205F (which is "Fan Desired" = 22).
Fan 1 switches off (0) when the engine temp is lower than ~199F (which is "Fan Desired" = 12).
The blue lines are for reading the AC system vapor pressure sensor, and then turning on/off Fan 2 according to the tables above.
Or in a Goblin, since we don't use the AC system, you could put a different 5V sensor instead of the AC system vapor pressure sensor. Maybe a 5V oil pressure sensor. Then the PCM would read the new oil pressure sensor, and report on it on the AC pressure PID. I'm not sure what PID that is, but I know HP Tuners can see and report on it. Wikipedia doesn't list the AC Pressure sensor... unless it is one of the Evap system pressures:
Maybe the Evap vapor pressure sensor could be repurposed too?
PIDs
(hex)PID
(Dec)Data bytes returned Description Min value Min value Units Formula[a] 05 5 1 Engine coolant temperature -40 215 °C 
32 50 2 Evap. System Vapor Pressure -8,192 8191.75 Pa 
53 83 2 Absolute Evap system Vapor Pressure 0 327.675 kPa 
54 84 2 Evap system vapor pressure -32,768 32,767 Pa 
View attachment 39253 View attachment 39254
View attachment 39255View attachment 39256
View attachment 39257 View attachment 39259
do you know if there is a certain logic how the fans at the LSJ work? Is Fan Output Control VS Current State in every column somehow connected?
I am playing around with it at the moment. It feels like that if FAN 2 comes on, FAN 1 comes on as well, even if the ECT is not high enough.
Michael
Ross
Goblin Guru
I did figure out the HP Tuners logic for the fans.
The LSJ has fan high and fan low speeds. Fan low speed puts both fans in series, so that they get 6V each. So, yes they both come on at once.
In fan high mode, both fans are at 12V, so potentially they could be individually controlled.
The LSJ has fan high and fan low speeds. Fan low speed puts both fans in series, so that they get 6V each. So, yes they both come on at once.
In fan high mode, both fans are at 12V, so potentially they could be individually controlled.
Interesting, if I see that correctly, it is not possible to run AC Input and Fan 2 output completely independent from Fan 1. If Fan 2 is requested and Fan 1 is off, then Fan 1 would switch on. I have to study the diagrams a bit better and do some more testing.
Mystery solved. From a wiring standpoint Fan 1 can work independent of Fan 2. It just needs to be wired to ground and not get the switched ground from the ser/par relay. Same for fan 2. The remaining question is if the outputs to control the relays (low speed and high speed) can be controlled individually. I think if high speed is commanded on, low speed gets on as well. But that's something I have to test.
Ross
Goblin Guru
We had another marriage in the shop today. He was wearing his best silver paint with blue accents,
and she had fresh white paint in the engine bay and subframe.
I bled the clutch before bolting down the frame, as I need the extra 4" for working room.
Earlier this week, I put the oil pan back on, and swapped the fuel pump.
and she had fresh white paint in the engine bay and subframe.
I bled the clutch before bolting down the frame, as I need the extra 4" for working room.
Earlier this week, I put the oil pan back on, and swapped the fuel pump.
Ross
Goblin Guru
The motor going in is one I bought 3 years ago, and have never driven. It got a cam chain, sprockets, guides, & tensioner, fresh paint, and the next step is to see if it is a good healthy stock LSJ engine.
If it is healthy, the motor hanging in my shop will become my project, getting the rods, pistons, cams, turbo, etc, with no pressure to get it done, as I should have a running goblin.
Ross
Goblin Guru
I would like a goblin that I find fun. Over time, as my driving ability and comfort level increase, I want more power for more fun.
You are farther down this learning curve than I am... maybe I should be asking you what your power goals are!
Half the fun is building it, then making it controllable.
I can see a lot of time going into making my own boost controller, and dialing it in.
Sebnuts asked me this question a few months ago, and here was my answer then. So many ways to answer this question...
You are farther down this learning curve than I am... maybe I should be asking you what your power goals are!
Half the fun is building it, then making it controllable.
I can see a lot of time going into making my own boost controller, and dialing it in.
Sebnuts asked me this question a few months ago, and here was my answer then. So many ways to answer this question...
Rttoys
Goblin Guru
A lot of builders don’t understand this, it’s even worse in the motorcycle world. The car is more capable than the driver. More power isn’t going to help you. As you build skills and dial in the car, then you add power. It all goes hand in hand.