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V1 Dre city Goblin build - 06 LS Donor

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If you're lights go on/off with the battery, something is not wired up right. The light sensor won't help. The ambient temp sensor plugs into a hole in your subframe in one of the tabs underneath your gas tank on the driver's side.
 
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I checked the light sensor already...My relay never clicks. I unplugged some relays and installed them again. Maybe i installed incorrectly? Also, which relay is it?
 
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On my particular model, there don't appear to be any visible relays in the fuse box for the park lights. It's labeled as "PCB" which I'm assuming that means it's built into the circuit board inside.

You'll have to look at the underside of your fuse box lid to confirm.
 
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Waterdriver
Work completed:
I did some wiring organizing this weekend. I also wired up the side blinkers. I ordered some head lights. Should be here Thursday.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D6PGNCT/?coliid=I2RSKW8KJQLZVO&colid=2CHGE3F8SWRN7&psc=0

Waiting on:
Waiting for my brake calipers and e-brake to finish powdercoating. I'm also still waiting for my shifter/clutch hardware and the spoiler.
I like the look and features of this headlight. The price as well!
Do you already have a mount for this headlight? What are you planning on using?
 
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I like the look and features of this headlight. The price as well!
Do you already have a mount for this headlight? What are you planning on using?
I dont have a mount yet. I'll probably just do a 90 degree bracket with holes to mount it. I'll play with some ideas when they come in.
 
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Correct me if I'm wrong for the cruise control. Im using my own switches (these are not toggle and normally opened).
Power goes into the first switch and this switch is grounded. Then the connecting wire goes to the second switch, third switch, and signal wire. The wire going from the first switch to the signal wire has a 5360, the wire going from the second switch to the signal has a 1270, the wire going from the third switch to the signal wire has a 1620?
 

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Let me just start off by saying that the cruise enable needs to be a toggle switch. All of the other switches are momentary. The cruise control and driver information circuits use voltage dividers. That's why there are so many resistors. With that said, there isn't really a one-to-one switch to resistor relationship. What I mean is that the first switch doesn't only connect to the 5360 ohm resistor, the second switch doesn't only connect to the 1270 ohm resistor and the third switch only to the 1620 ohm resistor.

When you turn the cruise enable switch to on, the current flows through all three resistors. The BCM detects the voltage drop across the sum of the three resistors, 8250 ohms, and that's how it knows that you turned on cruise control. When you press the set/- button, the current flows through the 1270 ohm resistor, and that creates another voltage drop that the BCM detects. Same fro the res/+. Current flows through both the 1620 and 1270 ohm resistors providing a another resistance value that the BCM picks up on. This is how you're able to get three different signals all using the same wire.

The same theory works for Driver Information Center info/return buttons.
 
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While waiting for resistors, other parts to be delivered, and the lingering problem of the lights staying on.... my headlights came in, i made the mounting holes for the seats, and mocked up a little panel for my buttons.
 

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I'll be gone on vacation for 2 weeks, but I'll get some more photos and a mock up of the lights on the car when i get back.
 
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My brother is almost done powdercoating my brake calipers. Ran out of powder and still one more to coat.
 

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