Desert Sasqwatch
Bigfoot Goblin
- Desert Sasqwatch Bigfoot Goblin
Plastidip comes in all sorts of colors, they may something close to hyper black?
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V1 Frank's Florida Street Goblin Build (#227) - 06 SS, 2.4L donor
Mayor West
Goblin Guru
- Mayor West Goblin Guru
I don't really care for plastidip. When I get my tires changed down the road I'll probably get them powdered bronze.
Desert Sasqwatch
Bigfoot Goblin
- Desert Sasqwatch Bigfoot Goblin
Was only a suggested option - one of many available - and it's apparent that plastidip is not a preferred one. Good to know. 
Ark :D
Goblin Guru
- Ark :D Goblin Guru
I don't represent DYC, but I do want to make sure it is accurately depicted.
A common complaint is that it's hard to remove. This is not the case, if you follow their instructions and apply it how it is supposed to be done. Granted, it wasn't EASY to get off, I had to pull for 30 minutes or so, but it came off in one big sheet.
Regardless, this doesn't totally apply here as this is wheel discussion, not body discussion. Just wanted to make sure the product is represented accurately.
A common complaint is that it's hard to remove. This is not the case, if you follow their instructions and apply it how it is supposed to be done. Granted, it wasn't EASY to get off, I had to pull for 30 minutes or so, but it came off in one big sheet.
Regardless, this doesn't totally apply here as this is wheel discussion, not body discussion. Just wanted to make sure the product is represented accurately.
Mayor West
Goblin Guru
- Mayor West Goblin Guru
I think something we might agree on is it's less durable than paint, so unless you want to continually redo the job painting your wheels with it may not be the best use of your time? Wheels can take a lot of abuse especially if you change tires often.
I've tried plasti-dip once before on a car of mine, it was an absolute disaster and was a complete nightmare to come off. I know @OptimizePrime and @Ark :D have had good results and I'm glad they didn't struggle like I did. I haven't seen Ark's in person but O-Primes is A+.
Edit: Mine did not come off in sheets like Ark's. Mine basically glued itself on and came off in flakes, it was terrible. 99.99% probably the application technique and applicator's lack of skill, so YMMV.
I've tried plasti-dip once before on a car of mine, it was an absolute disaster and was a complete nightmare to come off. I know @OptimizePrime and @Ark :D have had good results and I'm glad they didn't struggle like I did. I haven't seen Ark's in person but O-Primes is A+.
Edit: Mine did not come off in sheets like Ark's. Mine basically glued itself on and came off in flakes, it was terrible. 99.99% probably the application technique and applicator's lack of skill, so YMMV.
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OptimizePrime
Goblin Guru
- OptimizePrime Goblin Guru
I'll jump on this bandwagon for those who may be searching although I feel like we're hijacking Frank's build thread.
I agree the finish is not as crispy as a well done professional paint job. However, I'm not looking for the cost, time, effort, and post paint OCD it introduces. I'm also looking to switch up colors fairly frequently and generally don't care if the paint gets goofed up because it will happen when I can actually drive my car without worrying about the paint. I can swap colors for like $80 in a 5hr period, you can't do that with anything else. I can also lay down color shifts and other styles that, as a garage do-it-yourselfer, you'd never want to try. I took a risk with the dyc stuff and after seeing the results in person and going through the process I'm a huge fan.
Definitely not for wheels though, powdercoat those.
I agree the finish is not as crispy as a well done professional paint job. However, I'm not looking for the cost, time, effort, and post paint OCD it introduces. I'm also looking to switch up colors fairly frequently and generally don't care if the paint gets goofed up because it will happen when I can actually drive my car without worrying about the paint. I can swap colors for like $80 in a 5hr period, you can't do that with anything else. I can also lay down color shifts and other styles that, as a garage do-it-yourselfer, you'd never want to try. I took a risk with the dyc stuff and after seeing the results in person and going through the process I'm a huge fan.
Definitely not for wheels though, powdercoat those.
Fozda
Goblin Guru
- Fozda Goblin Guru
I also don't want to hi-jack a build thread but I feel like I have enough experience with plastidip to share my 2 cents. I've used the DYC stuff to do 7 full cars. I've also done numerous sets of wheels, hoods, grilles, etc. with rattle cans.
Will it last forever? No.
Will it look like a professional paint job? No.
Can you successfully do wheels and have it look good for a few years? Yes.
It's also been stated numerous times that the prep work makes all of the difference and that's very true. Another thing that people don't realize is that you have to put it on really thick in order for it to peel off nicely. We're talking like 5-6 thick coats. The other thing to remember is that the longer it's on the harder it is to come off. If it's been on for a long time and you can't get it to peel, the best bet is to spray a couple new coats over it as a peel coat. They also make products to help protect the finish if you're worried about it.
We dipped my wife's car and it sat outside 24/7, summer, winter, you name it for 5 years and it barely even faded. As long as you take care of the dip, it will last a long time. I plastidipped wheels that took about 2 years of daily driving before needing a quick fresh coat to look new again. I've also peeled entire cars and it was a nightmare and you'll never get it out of all of the body lines and gaps. As for the Goblin you wouldn't have to worry about that since it's just a couple of panels that you can spray off the car.
It is definitely not meant for the folks that want a show car finish or just want everything to look perfect but if it's just a weekend cruiser or track car plastidip will hold up very well to the abuse.
The different colors and finishes you can do with plastidip for such little money is unmatched by anything. Vinyl wraps have a lot of options but are expensive and limited. You don't even have to peel the plastidip off before applying a new color. 1 or 2 coats over the other color and you have a brand new color. The thicker it is the easier it is to peel. You can also paint whatever you want right on top of it. That's what we did with my hood. I dipped it red and then we painted the sides silver so most people assume it's a sheet metal hood that I painted the center red. There's no way I'd paint on vinyl, it's too expensive to play around with.
Almost everything you can do whether it's paint, plastidip, vinyl, powder coat, etc. is a good option as long as you understand what you're working with.
Sorry for the long post.
Will it last forever? No.
Will it look like a professional paint job? No.
Can you successfully do wheels and have it look good for a few years? Yes.
It's also been stated numerous times that the prep work makes all of the difference and that's very true. Another thing that people don't realize is that you have to put it on really thick in order for it to peel off nicely. We're talking like 5-6 thick coats. The other thing to remember is that the longer it's on the harder it is to come off. If it's been on for a long time and you can't get it to peel, the best bet is to spray a couple new coats over it as a peel coat. They also make products to help protect the finish if you're worried about it.
We dipped my wife's car and it sat outside 24/7, summer, winter, you name it for 5 years and it barely even faded. As long as you take care of the dip, it will last a long time. I plastidipped wheels that took about 2 years of daily driving before needing a quick fresh coat to look new again. I've also peeled entire cars and it was a nightmare and you'll never get it out of all of the body lines and gaps. As for the Goblin you wouldn't have to worry about that since it's just a couple of panels that you can spray off the car.
It is definitely not meant for the folks that want a show car finish or just want everything to look perfect but if it's just a weekend cruiser or track car plastidip will hold up very well to the abuse.
The different colors and finishes you can do with plastidip for such little money is unmatched by anything. Vinyl wraps have a lot of options but are expensive and limited. You don't even have to peel the plastidip off before applying a new color. 1 or 2 coats over the other color and you have a brand new color. The thicker it is the easier it is to peel. You can also paint whatever you want right on top of it. That's what we did with my hood. I dipped it red and then we painted the sides silver so most people assume it's a sheet metal hood that I painted the center red. There's no way I'd paint on vinyl, it's too expensive to play around with.
Almost everything you can do whether it's paint, plastidip, vinyl, powder coat, etc. is a good option as long as you understand what you're working with.
Sorry for the long post.
Fozda
Goblin Guru
- Fozda Goblin Guru
Just make sure whoever you take them to understands how to powder coat wheels. Too many wheels can be affected by the high temperatures most people use to bake the powder on and wheel manufacturers won't warranty wheels that have been powder coated for that reason.
CaptFrank2001
Goblin Guru
- CaptFrank2001 Goblin Guru
I think my build log got hijacked.
Desert Sasqwatch
Bigfoot Goblin
- Desert Sasqwatch Bigfoot Goblin
SORRY!!!! 
CaptFrank2001
Goblin Guru
- CaptFrank2001 Goblin Guru
Braum Seats Nightmare - Well I tried to put the Braum sliders on my Braum seats. There is a handle in front of the seat to release the sliders so you can move the seats back and forth. Could not make them work. No way, no how. Messaged Braum & their answer was to install 3/8" spacers between the seat and the sliders. Of course these were not supplied with the seats & Braum was out of stock with them as well. I tried using a large nut as a 3/8" spacer & it still did not work and was still hitting the bottom of the seat. I finally added some washers & increased the height to 5/8" and now one side worked and the other did not. After playing with this most of the day I put the release bar in a vice, bent it a few degrees (maybe 5 degrees) & put it all back together. Problem solved. I love their seats but this was just ridiculous at $400 a seat. No Braum company video's on line & their written directions are crap. Here are a few pictures.
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Mayor West
Goblin Guru
- Mayor West Goblin Guru
I have Braums and I didn't particularly care for how my seat adjustment bar was either, but I didn't have nearly the issues you did.
I did remember them fitting best in one direction, maybe try flipping them upside down?
I did remember them fitting best in one direction, maybe try flipping them upside down?
CaptFrank2001
Goblin Guru
- CaptFrank2001 Goblin Guru
I tried them several ways, in different positions & even tried the release bar both ways. Did not work. Braum verified I had them put together correctly. I really think the issue was the seat bottom was put together wrong. There is a (Hidden) metal piece in the front, bottom of the seat (under the fabric) that the release bar was hitting. You can't see it in the pictures, it's hidden under the fabric.
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Mayor West
Goblin Guru
- Mayor West Goblin Guru
CaptFrank2001
Goblin Guru
- CaptFrank2001 Goblin Guru
Apparently I have the super, deluxe, wonderful, plush, padded, stuffed version. Lol
