ah.b.normal
Goblin Guru
- ah.b.normal Goblin Guru
Just ****!, It's a cold world.
-
We've upgraded and reskinned the forum. Notice something off? Email us at [email protected] and we'll fix it.
V1 Joe's 2009 F40 SS/TC #470
comegetjoe
Goblin Guru
- comegetjoe Goblin Guru
PTFE taped. I asked over on the SS/TC thread and someone said to do the same. Thank you.
comegetjoe
Goblin Guru
- comegetjoe Goblin Guru
****.
Easy fix still.
Easy fix still.
comegetjoe
Goblin Guru
- comegetjoe Goblin Guru
Lets try this again 
Its a little more compact now, less room to see whats going on, but Im still confident I did everything right the first time, besides mounting it lol
I still stacked my plastic coolant lines and had to change up my 3/4" heater hose routing a bit, but nothing extensive.
I was worried about the floor pan rivets damaging the loom, vacuum line and coolant lines over time. I took a blob of black RTV over each one and have no worries now.
Look about right this time?
Its a little more compact now, less room to see whats going on, but Im still confident I did everything right the first time, besides mounting it lol
I still stacked my plastic coolant lines and had to change up my 3/4" heater hose routing a bit, but nothing extensive.
I was worried about the floor pan rivets damaging the loom, vacuum line and coolant lines over time. I took a blob of black RTV over each one and have no worries now.
Look about right this time?
Last edited:
comegetjoe
Goblin Guru
- comegetjoe Goblin Guru
All posted and edited from my phone so bear with me.
The F40 transmission. I will be doing my best to explain, though brief explanations and pictures, how to install a Quaife LSD into an F40 6spd transmission. We will be testing bearing resistance, replacing the ring gear onto the new LSD, removing and reinstalling all 3 shafts as well as the shift turret assembly. I am by no means a professional, but with limited information on the forums and on the interwebs as a whole, I figured I will share what I can.
Post #1
New F40 fresh from the plastic shipping container it came in and location of the drain pan. It did not come with much fluid in it, but enough to make a mess if you didn't drain it before separating the two case halves. Also showing the pin that holds the shifting turret in place during shipping, simple and effective. The last picture shows the speed sensor as a tan sensor on the left of the picture, more on that later.
The F40 transmission. I will be doing my best to explain, though brief explanations and pictures, how to install a Quaife LSD into an F40 6spd transmission. We will be testing bearing resistance, replacing the ring gear onto the new LSD, removing and reinstalling all 3 shafts as well as the shift turret assembly. I am by no means a professional, but with limited information on the forums and on the interwebs as a whole, I figured I will share what I can.
Post #1
New F40 fresh from the plastic shipping container it came in and location of the drain pan. It did not come with much fluid in it, but enough to make a mess if you didn't drain it before separating the two case halves. Also showing the pin that holds the shifting turret in place during shipping, simple and effective. The last picture shows the speed sensor as a tan sensor on the left of the picture, more on that later.
Last edited:
comegetjoe
Goblin Guru
- comegetjoe Goblin Guru
Post #2
After removing the pin that holds the shifter turret assembly in position, the transmission *should fall into nuetral, this tranmission did.
The turret is held in with two bolts and the transmission needs to be in nuetral before the assembly will come out of its hole. Don't lose the o-ring, its a thin one. The 4th picture is one looking into the turret hole. Here you can see how the spaces all line up, this shows that the transmission is in nuetral.
After removing the pin that holds the shifter turret assembly in position, the transmission *should fall into nuetral, this tranmission did.
The turret is held in with two bolts and the transmission needs to be in nuetral before the assembly will come out of its hole. Don't lose the o-ring, its a thin one. The 4th picture is one looking into the turret hole. Here you can see how the spaces all line up, this shows that the transmission is in nuetral.
Last edited:
comegetjoe
Goblin Guru
- comegetjoe Goblin Guru
Post #3
*Size 12 inverted torx
*15 inverted and 4x 13mm/deep socket. We marked the position of these 4 studs with a white paint marker on the case so as to not lose where they belong. There are 3 bolts on the side not pictured and then one bolt on the inside of the bellhousing. Sorry, I missed pictures for these odd bolts while we were tossing the trans around.
There are a few places around the transmission to separate the case halves. An angled prybar on the shifter turret side between the two tabs that stick out gave us the most leverage and with some force the cases separated. There are two dowel pins, one of mine stayed in one half of the case and one in the other half.
*Size 12 inverted torx
*15 inverted and 4x 13mm/deep socket. We marked the position of these 4 studs with a white paint marker on the case so as to not lose where they belong. There are 3 bolts on the side not pictured and then one bolt on the inside of the bellhousing. Sorry, I missed pictures for these odd bolts while we were tossing the trans around.
There are a few places around the transmission to separate the case halves. An angled prybar on the shifter turret side between the two tabs that stick out gave us the most leverage and with some force the cases separated. There are two dowel pins, one of mine stayed in one half of the case and one in the other half.
Last edited:
comegetjoe
Goblin Guru
- comegetjoe Goblin Guru
Post #4
Now were at the goods and were going to get into some information between photos. Torque specs and readings, tips and how I did things.
Picture#1
This shows the bottom of the input shaft and two shafts with the gears. Also pictured is the gear selectors that were shown earlier, these are still lined up and still in nuetral.
Picture #2
This is a thing of beauty! Just look at it!
Here is where we remove the gear stacks which are the stacks left and right, as well as the input shaft which is the stack in the back of the picture. The differential with the ring gear attatched is the large assembly closest to us and underneath the left and right stacks, this is what we're after. Our new LSD bolts to those 12 inverted torx bolts on the ring gear.
Picture #3
What we're doing. We're going to pull the two gear stacks (now front and back). It is easier with two pair of hands, but not impossible with one. With two pairs of hands, at the same time...hands#1 grab either stack of gears at the top and cup the shaft that holds the shift forks, if not they will fall when you pull the stack out.
Hands#2 want to pull up gently and wiggle the middle shaft. Hands#1 lift your stack up and out while also wiggling and possibly turning it. It may sound like a lot in writing or I may be bad at explaining it, but it will come more naturally when it comes time to actually move everything.
*note- when lifting up on the middle shaft, it will be able to lean out and away from the others, making it easier to remove the others. Repeat for the other stack and set all aside on a clean surface.
Picture #4
I set all 3 on an absorbent mat, mostly because its what I had laying around and they were clean. I laid them down with the shift forks still in place, this way I didnt have to remember where they went later on, assembly went smooth leaving them in place.
Bearing races and rollers are different sizes on the two gear stacks. One stack will not fit in the others race.
Picture #5-6
This is the end result once youve removed your gears. The differential just lifts up and out of the case. Watch your fingers!
Now is a good time to wipe down the inside of your case and clean off your magnetic pick up if you've bought a used transmission. The pick up is a little rectangular magnet at the bottom of picture 6 that just sits in a recess, see it?
Now were at the goods and were going to get into some information between photos. Torque specs and readings, tips and how I did things.
Picture#1
This shows the bottom of the input shaft and two shafts with the gears. Also pictured is the gear selectors that were shown earlier, these are still lined up and still in nuetral.
Picture #2
This is a thing of beauty! Just look at it!
Here is where we remove the gear stacks which are the stacks left and right, as well as the input shaft which is the stack in the back of the picture. The differential with the ring gear attatched is the large assembly closest to us and underneath the left and right stacks, this is what we're after. Our new LSD bolts to those 12 inverted torx bolts on the ring gear.
Picture #3
What we're doing. We're going to pull the two gear stacks (now front and back). It is easier with two pair of hands, but not impossible with one. With two pairs of hands, at the same time...hands#1 grab either stack of gears at the top and cup the shaft that holds the shift forks, if not they will fall when you pull the stack out.
Hands#2 want to pull up gently and wiggle the middle shaft. Hands#1 lift your stack up and out while also wiggling and possibly turning it. It may sound like a lot in writing or I may be bad at explaining it, but it will come more naturally when it comes time to actually move everything.
*note- when lifting up on the middle shaft, it will be able to lean out and away from the others, making it easier to remove the others. Repeat for the other stack and set all aside on a clean surface.
Picture #4
I set all 3 on an absorbent mat, mostly because its what I had laying around and they were clean. I laid them down with the shift forks still in place, this way I didnt have to remember where they went later on, assembly went smooth leaving them in place.
Bearing races and rollers are different sizes on the two gear stacks. One stack will not fit in the others race.
Picture #5-6
This is the end result once youve removed your gears. The differential just lifts up and out of the case. Watch your fingers!
Now is a good time to wipe down the inside of your case and clean off your magnetic pick up if you've bought a used transmission. The pick up is a little rectangular magnet at the bottom of picture 6 that just sits in a recess, see it?
Last edited:
comegetjoe
Goblin Guru
- comegetjoe Goblin Guru
Post #5
Picture #1-2-3 Unboxing pictures. I don't think most of you realize just how small this little guy is. It's not as small as a softball, but its a lot smaller than I had expected. I suppose I never really thought about it.
Picture #1-2-3 Unboxing pictures. I don't think most of you realize just how small this little guy is. It's not as small as a softball, but its a lot smaller than I had expected. I suppose I never really thought about it.
comegetjoe
Goblin Guru
- comegetjoe Goblin Guru
Post #6
I think this post we get down to taking parts off of the differential and getting parts swapped over to the ring gear.
Picture #1
While I went to run grab some things at autozone...
-Permatext RTV to seal the case
-Loctite from home
-Torque wrenches from home
-Doorman 02600 "Oil galley expansion plug" 1"-1¹/⁸"- used to measure bearing resistance, in just a post or two Ill show you what I mean.
... Scott had pulled the tapered rollers off of the old differential and installed them on the new Quaife LSD and failed to take any pictures. Blame Scott for this one.
But basically the old differential has spaace and allows you to use a top plate and a two-jaw pulley puller to safely get under the frame of the bearing and not damage the frame/rollers/cage assembly during removal. He used a fancy Snap-on bearing press kit and a 10-ton press to put the bearings safely back onto the new LSD and that leaves us with THIS picture.
Picture #2
We clamp the old differential in a table vise, it is a cast piece and clamps in nicely and will hold while we break free the inverted torx that hold the ring gear to the old differential. When these bolts we removed they were taken to a wire wheel and had all the old thread locker brushed clean. I feel this is an important step in the process of using thread locker on the new LSD, also.
Picture #3
There is a slight press fit in the center of the ring gear. Don't smash it, but a couple of taps with a rubber mallet upwards will separate the ring gear from the old differential. Sharpie marks explained in the next photo.
Photo #4
I was unable to locate a torque spec for the ring gear bolts. So as an experiment we marked a couple of bolts with a sharpie (seen in pic #3) and then broke them free, removed them and replaced them in the same hole. The bolts were then torqued down to where the sharpie marks lined up and we came up with about 60ft/lb on each one. Though only a test, this is NOT where we got the final figure from. Next pic.
Picture #5
These inverted torx bolts are as follows from https://www.fastenermart.com/files/metric_tighten_torques.pdf
12.9 grade
M10x1.25
This gives us a torque of 64ft/lb
These are the figures that I have used.
Accompanied by red Loctite, I am confident that these bolts are not going anywhere.
*note- all bolts and bosses were cleaned and prepped with cleaner before thread locker was applied, important as the new differential comes coated everywhere in an oil
I think this post we get down to taking parts off of the differential and getting parts swapped over to the ring gear.
Picture #1
While I went to run grab some things at autozone...
-Permatext RTV to seal the case
-Loctite from home
-Torque wrenches from home
-Doorman 02600 "Oil galley expansion plug" 1"-1¹/⁸"- used to measure bearing resistance, in just a post or two Ill show you what I mean.
... Scott had pulled the tapered rollers off of the old differential and installed them on the new Quaife LSD and failed to take any pictures. Blame Scott for this one.
But basically the old differential has spaace and allows you to use a top plate and a two-jaw pulley puller to safely get under the frame of the bearing and not damage the frame/rollers/cage assembly during removal. He used a fancy Snap-on bearing press kit and a 10-ton press to put the bearings safely back onto the new LSD and that leaves us with THIS picture.
Picture #2
We clamp the old differential in a table vise, it is a cast piece and clamps in nicely and will hold while we break free the inverted torx that hold the ring gear to the old differential. When these bolts we removed they were taken to a wire wheel and had all the old thread locker brushed clean. I feel this is an important step in the process of using thread locker on the new LSD, also.
Picture #3
There is a slight press fit in the center of the ring gear. Don't smash it, but a couple of taps with a rubber mallet upwards will separate the ring gear from the old differential. Sharpie marks explained in the next photo.
Photo #4
I was unable to locate a torque spec for the ring gear bolts. So as an experiment we marked a couple of bolts with a sharpie (seen in pic #3) and then broke them free, removed them and replaced them in the same hole. The bolts were then torqued down to where the sharpie marks lined up and we came up with about 60ft/lb on each one. Though only a test, this is NOT where we got the final figure from. Next pic.
Picture #5
These inverted torx bolts are as follows from https://www.fastenermart.com/files/metric_tighten_torques.pdf
12.9 grade
M10x1.25
This gives us a torque of 64ft/lb
These are the figures that I have used.
Accompanied by red Loctite, I am confident that these bolts are not going anywhere.
*note- all bolts and bosses were cleaned and prepped with cleaner before thread locker was applied, important as the new differential comes coated everywhere in an oil
Last edited:
comegetjoe
Goblin Guru
- comegetjoe Goblin Guru
Post #7
With the ring gear set in place onto the LSD, bolts torqued with red thread locker to 64ft/lb, we move on to re assembly of the gears back into the case and testing bearing resistance.
Picture #1
Differential back into the bellhousing half of the case by itself. Again, watch your fingers!
Picture #2
This picture shows an "Oil galley expansion plug" from Doorman, part #02600, expands from 1" to 1¹/⁸". I picked this up from Autozone for $6, they only had one in stock, I checked before I left the house.
Place this plug into the top of the differential shaft, hold the gold washer with pliers or channel locks and then tighten the nut down until the plug expands into the opening. Once tight, you will be able to spin the differential with the nut.
Picture #3
This a torque wrench that measure in in/lbs. We will be placing this on the nut on the expansion plug, but first, to get a proper measurment of bearing resistance we need to reassemble the two cases with JUST the differential inside and torque down the hardware for the cases. With the cases reassembled, use your torque wrench and spin the differential using the expansion nut and take your reading. I am not an expert, but if your reading is too low or too high, you may need to add shims below the bearing races or have something machined down to get the correct spec, but thats not something we'll venture into here.
Picture #4
This a recreation of the measurment I got on a brand new transmission, with brand new bearings that have not been broken in yet.
22-23 in/lbs
Ive been told that after the break-in period, between 5-15 in/lbs is normal, so I think this is within the spec being new. With my measurments being solid, the cases get split again and we begin reassembling the gear sets and modifying the case for the F35 speed sensor.
With the ring gear set in place onto the LSD, bolts torqued with red thread locker to 64ft/lb, we move on to re assembly of the gears back into the case and testing bearing resistance.
Picture #1
Differential back into the bellhousing half of the case by itself. Again, watch your fingers!
Picture #2
This picture shows an "Oil galley expansion plug" from Doorman, part #02600, expands from 1" to 1¹/⁸". I picked this up from Autozone for $6, they only had one in stock, I checked before I left the house.
Place this plug into the top of the differential shaft, hold the gold washer with pliers or channel locks and then tighten the nut down until the plug expands into the opening. Once tight, you will be able to spin the differential with the nut.
Picture #3
This a torque wrench that measure in in/lbs. We will be placing this on the nut on the expansion plug, but first, to get a proper measurment of bearing resistance we need to reassemble the two cases with JUST the differential inside and torque down the hardware for the cases. With the cases reassembled, use your torque wrench and spin the differential using the expansion nut and take your reading. I am not an expert, but if your reading is too low or too high, you may need to add shims below the bearing races or have something machined down to get the correct spec, but thats not something we'll venture into here.
Picture #4
This a recreation of the measurment I got on a brand new transmission, with brand new bearings that have not been broken in yet.
22-23 in/lbs
Ive been told that after the break-in period, between 5-15 in/lbs is normal, so I think this is within the spec being new. With my measurments being solid, the cases get split again and we begin reassembling the gear sets and modifying the case for the F35 speed sensor.
comegetjoe
Goblin Guru
- comegetjoe Goblin Guru
Post #8
Modifying the case did not come without issues. Lets take a look at the pictures.
Picture #1
Here we just reversed the process of wiggling the shaft and gear stacks back into place. Remember that the center shaft, if you pull up a little it will lean back and help the others slide into place. Wiggle, spin, make sure that the shifter shafts go back into the holes, I put the first stack in without this and had undo and redo it again.
Picture #2-3
24mm drill bit against the original F40 speed sensor hole. You can see here how little material will be left on either side after the bit opens up the hole. Speed sensor, hole and 24mm bit together.
Pictures 4-5-6
Here you can see the actual amount of material left over after the 24mm drill bit passed through the orginal F40 speed sensor hole. Next to no material is left and you can see that I broke out on BOTH sides of the case. Simply putting the sensor back in with the o-ring will NOT be enough to keep fluid from leaking out around the sensor.
Picture 4 shows 2 cracks on the left side of the hole and the breakout on the other side also. The first cracks almost look like a piece that is ready to fall out. I pressed on it and it didn't break out and the sensor o-ring doesn't put enough pressure on the wall to push the crack open.
Picture 5 shows the other side how the opposite side breakout.
Picture 6 shows the same as picture 4, but from a different angle.
Modifying the case did not come without issues. Lets take a look at the pictures.
Picture #1
Here we just reversed the process of wiggling the shaft and gear stacks back into place. Remember that the center shaft, if you pull up a little it will lean back and help the others slide into place. Wiggle, spin, make sure that the shifter shafts go back into the holes, I put the first stack in without this and had undo and redo it again.
Picture #2-3
24mm drill bit against the original F40 speed sensor hole. You can see here how little material will be left on either side after the bit opens up the hole. Speed sensor, hole and 24mm bit together.
Pictures 4-5-6
Here you can see the actual amount of material left over after the 24mm drill bit passed through the orginal F40 speed sensor hole. Next to no material is left and you can see that I broke out on BOTH sides of the case. Simply putting the sensor back in with the o-ring will NOT be enough to keep fluid from leaking out around the sensor.
Picture 4 shows 2 cracks on the left side of the hole and the breakout on the other side also. The first cracks almost look like a piece that is ready to fall out. I pressed on it and it didn't break out and the sensor o-ring doesn't put enough pressure on the wall to push the crack open.
Picture 5 shows the other side how the opposite side breakout.
Picture 6 shows the same as picture 4, but from a different angle.
comegetjoe
Goblin Guru
- comegetjoe Goblin Guru
Post #9
Pictures 1-2
These two pictures show the sensor inside of the hole and how the oring pushes out on the case and expands that crack from post #8. Also shown is the other breakout and how the hole is below the o-ring of the sensor and will not stop fluid from leaking out as fluid is flung around the inside of the transmission.
Pictures #3-4-5
Without having to take the case to a welding shop, having it tig welded to build up the walls and then redrilling the hole, RTV was my remedy to keep fluid in the case and keep movinf forward. These few pictures don't show the finished RTV. I made sure to put a thin layer on the inside of the crack, outside, as well as that breakout.
Pictures 1-2
These two pictures show the sensor inside of the hole and how the oring pushes out on the case and expands that crack from post #8. Also shown is the other breakout and how the hole is below the o-ring of the sensor and will not stop fluid from leaking out as fluid is flung around the inside of the transmission.
Pictures #3-4-5
Without having to take the case to a welding shop, having it tig welded to build up the walls and then redrilling the hole, RTV was my remedy to keep fluid in the case and keep movinf forward. These few pictures don't show the finished RTV. I made sure to put a thin layer on the inside of the crack, outside, as well as that breakout.
comegetjoe
Goblin Guru
- comegetjoe Goblin Guru
Post #10
Picture #1
Showing the distance of the F40 speed sensors mounting hole to the F35s speed sensor. This mounting hole is significantly closer to the sensor and we will need to modify the mounting bracket to fit this new obstacle.
Picture #2
The bracket for the F35 speed sensor has a step down to mount on the F35 and that step down/bend in the bracket is exactly where we need to drill the bracket to be able to bolt it to the F40. Fiest you have to wiggle the bracket off of the F35 sensor. Its a tough one because its bent around the F35 sensor like a crescent wrench with the ends bent in. With some persuasion it came off. I put the bracket in a table vise and flattned it out, wire wheeled it and clipped the ends of the bracket off so it slides on and off of the sensor easy. With the F35 sensor in the hole, sliding the bracket on, you can see where to mark the braket to drill a hole for the F40 sensor bolt. This bracket metal is pretty soft and drills easily, yet its stiff enough to hold the sensor down without having to bend the bracket back down like it originally was bent.
Picture #3
Final mounting position of the sensor with the bracket, RTV and original F40 mounting bolt.
Picture #4
This just shows the where the original position/direction of the sensor where it would be if we didn't remove the bracket. We can tell this by way of thr rust marks on the sensor where the bracket sat for many years.
Picture #1
Showing the distance of the F40 speed sensors mounting hole to the F35s speed sensor. This mounting hole is significantly closer to the sensor and we will need to modify the mounting bracket to fit this new obstacle.
Picture #2
The bracket for the F35 speed sensor has a step down to mount on the F35 and that step down/bend in the bracket is exactly where we need to drill the bracket to be able to bolt it to the F40. Fiest you have to wiggle the bracket off of the F35 sensor. Its a tough one because its bent around the F35 sensor like a crescent wrench with the ends bent in. With some persuasion it came off. I put the bracket in a table vise and flattned it out, wire wheeled it and clipped the ends of the bracket off so it slides on and off of the sensor easy. With the F35 sensor in the hole, sliding the bracket on, you can see where to mark the braket to drill a hole for the F40 sensor bolt. This bracket metal is pretty soft and drills easily, yet its stiff enough to hold the sensor down without having to bend the bracket back down like it originally was bent.
Picture #3
Final mounting position of the sensor with the bracket, RTV and original F40 mounting bolt.
Picture #4
This just shows the where the original position/direction of the sensor where it would be if we didn't remove the bracket. We can tell this by way of thr rust marks on the sensor where the bracket sat for many years.
comegetjoe
Goblin Guru
- comegetjoe Goblin Guru
Post #11
Turret installation. This is pretty straight forward. You're putting a shaft back down a hole and making sure that those shift selectors are still lined up. Two bolts and make sure the o-ring is still there.
*note - we had an issue getting the last selector not sitting perfectly in place due to gravity and the transmission leaning, sitting on the case. We propped the case up so the bellhousing was perpendicular with the ground and then tried and again and had no issue the next try.
Turret installation. This is pretty straight forward. You're putting a shaft back down a hole and making sure that those shift selectors are still lined up. Two bolts and make sure the o-ring is still there.
*note - we had an issue getting the last selector not sitting perfectly in place due to gravity and the transmission leaning, sitting on the case. We propped the case up so the bellhousing was perpendicular with the ground and then tried and again and had no issue the next try.
comegetjoe
Goblin Guru
- comegetjoe Goblin Guru
I *thought I took a picture of sealing the case back up but its pretty self explanitory. A nice bead of Permatex RTV and gently place the 2nd half of the case back on. Mine went back on with zero issues, everything lined up exactly like it should, dowel pins and all.
I thinks thats it guys! I hope I covered the main points and got the information needed to help someone out in the future with this modification. Im open to questions and editing my posts if there is something that is unclear. Let me know
I thinks thats it guys! I hope I covered the main points and got the information needed to help someone out in the future with this modification. Im open to questions and editing my posts if there is something that is unclear. Let me know
Desert Sasqwatch
Bigfoot Goblin
- Desert Sasqwatch Bigfoot Goblin
Thanks Joe. Great write up and photos. Good info for those who are deciding to install an LSD in their F40.
Similar threads
