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V1 Joe's 2009 F40 SS/TC #470

comegetjoe
The head is going to be too thick with the 12 point being raised above the 'flange' on the bolt. They may contact the clutch disc face - which is the reason the stock bolt heads are shallow. Thread length can be corrected to be shorter.

OTTP said that they will work with ALL F40 clutches.
Im looking at my flywheel and disc here. The flywheel is very recessed where the bolts rest and I can easily rotate the disc around the flywheel without making contact with the bolt heads. I matched up the deepest part of the disc, where the springs are, with the bolt head position, pushing the bolts through the flywheel towards the disc simulating the bolt backing out and it looks like the bolt would have to backout halfway before it makes contact with the disc parts. Did I describe that ok? How can I show or take a better picture to help?
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A
OTTP said that they will work with ALL F40 clutches.
Im looking at my flywheel and disc here. The flywheel is very recessed where the bolts rest and I can easily rotate the disc around the flywheel without making contact with the bolt heads. I matched up the deepest part of the disc, where the springs are, with the bolt head position, pushing the bolts through the flywheel towards the disc simulating the bolt backing out and it looks like the bolt would have to backout halfway before it makes contact with the disc parts. Did I describe that ok? How can I show or take a better picture to help?
View attachment 43640
I've got to say I am scared. All flywheel bolts I have ever seen had the thin flat tops. Make sure the clutch disc is Flywheel Side down! Disc installed upside down doesn't work or quickly makes a mess! (the Marcel springs' tips, when compressed by the T/O bearing, contact the disc hub and the clutch doesn't fully release.)
 
comegetjoe
I've got to say I am scared. All flywheel bolts I have ever seen had the thin flat tops. Make sure the clutch disc is Flywheel Side down! Disc installed upside down doesn't work or quickly makes a mess! (the Marcel springs' tips, when compressed by the T/O bearing, contact the disc hub and the clutch doesn't fully release.)
Yeah, thats why I tried to explain it the way I did. Youve mentioned this twice. The disc has stickers that say FW side and Trans side. I should've specified which side I was placing towards the bolt. Flywheel side towards the flywheel.
 
A
Yeah, thats why I tried to explain it the way I did. Youve mentioned this twice. The disc has stickers that say FW side and Trans side. I should've specified which side I was placing towards the bolt. Flywheel side towards the flywheel.
It is such an easy mistake to make on installation, most clutch discs the trans side is the shallow side. In my career I've had folks bring me 2 cars that the disc was installed backwards. One clutch disc was blown up, the other would not disengage at all.
 
comegetjoe
Measured the throwout bearing air gap today after test fitting the clutch assembly.
3-3/4" compressed to the face of the transmission and 3-1/4" engine block to finger ring. This leaves me with 1/2" gap. I will need to order a .250" spacer from ZZP to keep me in the 3/16"-to-a-little-over that Al says in the ZZP air gap measuring video. That spacer will get me right about where I need to be.


...but, I must say that as I close up the season on this beautiful 60° Sunday here in the northeast. #470 is covered, tarped and tucked away until spring. All components are inside and assembly of parts will continue inside over the winter so that stage 2 comes easier in the spring.

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comegetjoe
Picking up another turbo "parts" car for a good price and I thought it needed a passenger control arm, knuckle and axle. So I looked at what was attached to my subframe and this is what I saw.

Wait... so this needs replaced LOL

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A
Picking up another turbo "parts" car for a good price and I thought it needed a passenger control arm, knuckle and axle. So I looked at what was attached to my subframe and this is what I saw.

Wait... so this needs replaced LOL

View attachment 44129
I think the good part of this pic is I am in New(not old)Mexico and that rusty stuff is far away in Pennsylvania! BFHammer Time!
"Have fun storming the castle! How do you think they'll do? Eh, They haven't got a chance."
 
comegetjoe
Carbon wing came in the mail! Ordered it over two months ago! Well, off into the parts bin it goes until spring *shrugs
This winter is doing a hell of a number on me. Between waiting on my first baby due in April, to the working days on the goblin, then to just plain old spring. Just keep on workin and building as much of stage 2 in the house as I can.

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comegetjoe
Dang... January 10th and on Page 3, it's been a minute, but check this out...

That's a 2.4 blocked motor with a z54 and that's a carport ready to have a goblin turned back straight ready for work! I've been a busy bee behind the scenes.

I havent forgot about the motor with the built top end. Ported head/stage 2 cams/springs and 6758. Im kind of in a predicament. The 2.4 blocked motor is an unknown element, it was in a running/driving car with great compression and ran well, but the top end is unknown. So do I....
1. Take the 2.4 block down to the head and see whats what? See if it's got head work, springs, cams etc and if it does leave it be? And/or
2. Progressively follow #1 and do so, THEN depending on what I find, pull the top end off of the 2.4 block and add the built top end and have some sort of fully built motor to throw in the goblin with the 6758. Or
3. Leave it alone and run it as is knowing that it runs and drives as what it is. The z54 is an ok back up turbo to have, but I do want to run the 6758.

So many options. Ultimately I want to get the clutch, f40, motor and tubular subframe adjusted *no lol I didn't get mine yet either so don't ask rob :p * and all mounted to the car so I can really get things rolling. Need to get axles settled since zzp won't sell and OTTP is well... OTTP. I know I just simplified building the car, but you guys know what I mean. Very excited.



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And don't forget what we're building into.

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Rauq
If I understand correctly, you have two motors, one is an LNF with a worked over head and a 6758, and the other is an unknown 2.4 with a Z54? Do you have a computer and engine harness for the 2.4 head? Because it's going to be controlled completely differently than the direct injection LNF head.

I would guess an LNF bottom end is stronger than a powdered metal rod LE5, but hypothetically speaking if you knew the 2.4 was a very early model year or could otherwise verify that it has the early forged rods, that might be both a stronger bottom end and a higher power potential bottom end to go under whichever head you use.
 
comegetjoe
The 2.4 is a 2012 Malibu part number with an LNF head on it, I ran pictures through with Ryan from zzp because I was VERY confused when I pulled it from the car.

Is it possible to put a Malibu 2.4 shortblock with an LNF head and make everything work? We scoped the pistons and it shows and machined, flat center with raised edges and reliefs, very similar to a wiseco 88mm. The underside of the valves looks pretty clean. Plugs look as if it was running rich.

It came with tuned computer and running well with solid compression numbers. The head looks BRAND NEW and the block looks EXTREMELY clean where as the alternator and compressor look to be old news.

Lots of "what ifs". I don't claim to know much besides that this is not a stock build.
 
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