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V1 Joe's 2009 F40 SS/TC #470

comegetjoe
I tried the MIP and it bound up within 2 threads no matter how careful I was. I have a metal NPT threaded fitting here and it goes in nicely.

On a different note more odd... the four mounting bolt holes in my intercooler... are VACUUM LEAKS. Without bolts in the holes, they pulse air out of the holes. Not something I thought I would have to contend with.
 
Traé
Definitely some sort of sealant.
47813

ive used this on a few DRZ400s I put race carbs on and needed a threaded vacuum connection for and it has never failed.
 
comegetjoe
I pulled the last slide and this mess of rusty goop came out with it. Clearly it's not like the other 3, but is this just a clean it up and clean out the female end and reassemble after paint.

Big deal? Yay or nay?

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Rttoys
meh, some penetrant/wd40/any lube and some steel wool will clean it up. Spray brake cleaner on it when done, then add copper anti seize (or any caliper lube stuff you get with new pads) to the caliper slides (All of them). Make sure they are all free and smooth.

no different than cleaning everything up doing a brake job.
 
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Traé
Like others, I have taped off the important snd shiney bits and painted the brakes. I'm not sure it stck very well, probably my prep. I'll check this weekend.
View attachment 47969
I’m worried about mine sticking too. I applied 3 light coats and a 4th medium wet coat. It seemed to pit and get spotty in between coats. I should have let them dry more after degreasing but like you, we will see!
 
comegetjoe
Paint definitely did not adhere to those shiney coated parts of the calipers/brackets and is coming off. My shortest of chewed finger nails is scraping the paint off, but the uncoated rear calipers are just fine. Clearly I failed in the prep department.

Any recommendations? Spray em all down with carb cleaner and start over, Ive got a gallon bucket of parts cleaner here, but will that hurt the seals on the front calipers? Try a clear enamel over top or will that make it worse?
 
Desert Sasqwatch
Clear enamel over the flaking paint is not a good idea, it will not prevent the rest of the base paint from coming off. The only fix is to strip off the existing paint and start over. The seals can be affected by solvents used for paint stripping so use care.

The surface prep is key and shiney surfaces typically do not hold paint well. Light sanding and thorough cleaning with a solvent that doesn't leave any residue - acetone, etc. - should allow for better paint adhesion.
 
comegetjoe
I'm going to run the red calipers as is. They're not "flaking" and only scrape clean when pressed, so once installed they should be ok for a while to get me going. I want to powdercoat to cage color at some point. So... for now.

Got the front coilovers assembled this morning, THEN I read that the 400lb springs go up front. So apart they come, I tore the one o-ring pulling the slip ring off, big deal? Don't think so. So back to swapping the springs over.
 
Traé
I'm going to run the red calipers as is. They're not "flaking" and only scrape clean when pressed, so once installed they should be ok for a while to get me going. I want to powdercoat to cage color at some point. So... for now.

Got the front coilovers assembled this morning, THEN I read that the 400lb springs go up front. So apart they come, I tore the one o-ring pulling the slip ring off, big deal? Don't think so. So back to swapping the springs over.
Crap, mine are backwards. I just installed them as they were boxed up from DF, the 300s were with the front coilovers. :eek:

Wouldn’t a heavier spring make sense for the heavier end of the car?
 
Ark :D
Crap, mine are backwards. I just installed them as they were boxed up from DF, the 300s were with the front coilovers. :eek:

Wouldn’t a heavier spring make sense for the heavier end of the car?

 
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