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V1 Joe's 2009 F40 SS/TC #470

comegetjoe
Haha! My first time in a goblin.
Got My seats modded and set in the car. I know they'll have to come back out and I know they need good cleaning, but for now they can can sit in there out of the way.
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A
Haha! My first time in a goblin.
Got My seats modded and set in the car. I know they'll have to come back out and I know they need good cleaning, but for now they can can sit in there out of the way.
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Ya got seats in it, now feel free to sit in it all you want. Sure I look silly sitting in mine, but I also DON’T CARE! I’ve worked my a55 off just to get this far!! So I say, sit in there!, you’ve earned it! Those that might mock and say you look silly probably never assembled a car!
Many big repairs come with a “king of the world” moment where just sitting in it as it idles feels like a million bucks! Take an imaginary victory lap! You’ve DONE what many wouldn’t even ATTEMPT!
I have learned to take my wins when and where I get them!
 
comegetjoe
Putting parts on to get them out of the house.
Subframe came with one mount and a plate made up which is sweet and the front mount is blank, so no need to cut anything off. Blank canvas.

Do y'all powdercoat those sweet billet pieces the hubs mount to in the rear, with the kit? Or leave them bare? I think I like them bare. Clear powder?
Definitely chassis color for the subframe and arms.
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Traé
Putting parts on to get them out of the house.
Subframe came with one mount and a plate made up which is sweet and the front mount is blank, so no need to cut anything off. Blank canvas.

Do y'all powdercoat those sweet billet pieces the hubs mount to in the rear, with the kit? Or leave them bare? I think I like them bare. Clear powder?
Definitely chassis color for the subframe and arms.
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I can’t answer any of your questions as I don’t have this subframe but your rear coil over top mounts should be mounted from underneath as shown in the “helpful photos” thread.

 
Rttoys
Your choice. I painted, but some have powder coated.

I painted because I may change things in the future. And I’m impatient and wanted installed now.
 
Sparvy
Putting parts on to get them out of the house.
Subframe came with one mount and a plate made up which is sweet and the front mount is blank, so no need to cut anything off. Blank canvas.

Do y'all powdercoat those sweet billet pieces the hubs mount to in the rear, with the kit? Or leave them bare? I think I like them bare. Clear powder?
Definitely chassis color for the subframe and arms.
View attachment 48336View attachment 48337View attachment 48338
I considered doing just a clear coat on mine but eventually opted to anodize them copper (more of an orange in outcome) and powder coat the subframe.
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comegetjoe
Am I wrong here? This doesn't look right. It's been a minute since I pulled my true donor apart and I'm pulling from shelves here, but...it feels like such a small amount of threads even without the wheel there.
What am I doing wrong, or am I over thinking this? Do I need to run the nuts down with the wheel on to seat everything?
No I don't have the 114.3 package, but the rotors came with the elongated holes.

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comegetjoe
Idk what setup my donor had with its wheels/rotors or maybe that's why they were smashed and why these are brand new, I probably ordered new ones to replace the smashed ones that they likely jammed the rotor/wheel onto.

Dale to the rescue. Now I can continue on this Beautiful Saturday!

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Desert Sasqwatch
There 62mm-55.1mm alignment spacer on the hub spindle. Unless the inner diameter of the brake rotor hat fits over this spacer, it will hit it and not seat against the bearing hub face. Pull the spacers off and see if the rotor seats deeper.
 
comegetjoe
There 62mm-55.1mm alignment spacer on the hub spindle. Unless the inner diameter of the brake rotor hat fits over this spacer, it will hit it and not seat against the bearing hub face. Pull the spacers off and see if the rotor seats deeper.

Yeah...I stated that I had a rescuer, but not what the solution was. I removed the hubcentric ring and the rotor went to a much happier position. The hubentric ring does not fit into the back of the rotor, thus my issue. My buddy Scott came over to help out and says that the hubcentric ring might very well sit on the OUTSIDE of the rotor and behind the wheel. I had to call it for the day, so I'll try putting the wheel on next time I'm out there.

Snagged a couple pics of progress I'll update in a few.
 
comegetjoe
It's a little wider now than it has been in recent weeks, car cover is a smidge higher off the ground.
*hub nuts are in the mail, I didn't forget them.
Zip tied lines for now, I will not be drilling into the control arm.
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Traé
I had a decent gap that the hubcentric ring filled perfectly. I did have to use lugs to draw the rotor in over the ring as they are tight. Wonder if the measurements are different on a turbo car? Hmm…

I can see your front coilovers may have the adjustment dial facing the wheel. In the assembly videos these have the dial facing the car, will you be able to access it to adjust with the wheel on?
I don’t see how it would make a difference if you are able to reach it.
 
comegetjoe
I had a decent gap that the hubcentric ring filled perfectly. I did have to use lugs to draw the rotor in over the ring as they are tight. Wonder if the measurements are different on a turbo car? Hmm…

I can see your front coilovers may have the adjustment dial facing the wheel. In the assembly videos these have the dial facing the car, will you be able to access it to adjust with the wheel on?
I don’t see how it would make a difference if you are able to reach it.

This is one reason I post pictures :) Things that I don't catch in assembly photos/videos or think that far in advance about. The dials are facing towards the outside of the car. I see what you're saying and you have a valid point with access while the wheel is installed. I will certainly fix that.
 
Desert Sasqwatch
The hub centric rings are used for wheel to bearing hub alignment to prevent wheel/tire runout. They are not necessarily for centric alignment of the brake rotors - the wheel studs should align them and get (close) to centered. Rotors that slip side-to-side too much can cause interference with brake caliper brackets if they are not 'pre-aligned'.

There should be a little bit of play between the rotor center bore and the spindle on the bearing hub (<1/8 inch). Having too much (or not enough) is an indication of mismatched parts - which can occur when aftermarket parts are used. The play will allow the brake rotor to 'self- align' after the calipers are installed - by putting a couple lug nuts on the wheel studs finger tight over the installed rotors and spinning the rotors with the assembled calipers/pads in place. The gap (if there is one) should be concentric with the bearing hub spindle - a visual before installing the hub centric rings on the outside of the rotor face.

Tapping the brake pedal will push the brake pad to hold the rotor in place well enough to get the wheels installed - that will now be aligned by the hub centric rings (if used).
 
Traé
The hub centric rings are used for wheel to bearing hub alignment to prevent wheel/tire runout. They are not necessarily for centric alignment of the brake rotors - the wheel studs should align them and get (close) to centered. Rotors that slip side-to-side too much can cause interference with brake caliper brackets if they are not 'pre-aligned'.

There should be a little bit of play between the rotor center bore and the spindle on the bearing hub (<1/8 inch). Having too much (or not enough) is an indication of mismatched parts - which can occur when aftermarket parts are used. The play will allow the brake rotor to 'self- align' after the calipers are installed - by putting a couple lug nuts on the wheel studs finger tight over the installed rotors and spinning the rotors with the assembled calipers/pads in place. The gap (if there is one) should be concentric with the bearing hub spindle - a visual before installing the hub centric rings on the outside of the rotor face.

Tapping the brake pedal will push the brake pad to hold the rotor in place well enough to get the wheels installed - that will now be aligned by the hub centric rings (if used).
I see now, he is using a wheel ring for the rotors.

@comegetjoe, I assumed you were working on the rear since you had a ring. The fronts just go on, the rears have a 3d printed ring they will send you if you haven’t gotten it yet.
 
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