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V1 Joe's 2009 F40 SS/TC #470

comegetjoe
Is the first one (lefthand side of the photo of three) supposed to be bent? Or is just an illusion of the photo angle?

To answer your question. They're BOTH broken. Along with the other two now.

Its IMPOSSIBLE for a first timer to pull them out without breaking them. No one tells you this, besides "be careful they're fragile" from ZZP when they tell you to swap them. How about... dont give them a side eye or theyll break. They said "you are a bit out of any warranty" regardless of the miles on the car. So noted from ZZP, if you want to order parts and use them, make sure you use them and don't buy them for a build that wont be completed for a longer period.
 
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comegetjoe
Experiments are in progress.

Well, success and confusion has ensued.

I ran the injectors as unintended WITHOUT the tips, swapped injectors around. I *thought i swapped 1 and 3, but im questioning that now....And just like prior, I make about 3psi and the car starts to misfire.
Then, I made a pull and it came into a reduced power mode and when it came back out of reduced power it made ZERO boost as if it had blown a charge pipe. So I limped it home a couple miles only to find that all lines, hoses and charge pipes are attached properly. So what gives? Unno, but I cleared the codes and hopped back in and it began running like normal... well, normal for me anyways.

Now I only have a misfire in cylinder #2 and its a lower amount. 89. Definitely not the 4-500 I had in cylinder #1. So I question myself. Did I swap #1 and #2 or #1 and #3? And why if I swapped #1 and #3 did the misfire go away?

*sigh. There is a guy in Jersey with a set of new Opels for sale that I might bite the bullet and buy his new set, but Im not sure if that will solve a problem that I don't know if I truly have? Does that make sense?
 
comegetjoe
Im off of the injector trail.

Perhaps its MAP sensors. Whatever you do, don't expect it to run right if you swap the MAP connectors.

Idfk at this point.
 
comegetjoe
No time. Just no time. I haven't even had time to plan to get it to the garage for the winter yet.
I have two new MAP sensors waiting to go in to rule them out. I need to find a larger car cover to cover the front end AND wing (any thoughts?) And how do you guys store R888Rs over the winter? I dont want to just leave them on the ground, but I don't have spare wheels to put on.
 
Robinjo
I need to find a larger car cover to cover the front end AND wing (any thoughts?) And how do you guys store R888Rs over the winter? I dont want to just leave them on the ground, but I don't have spare wheels to put on.
My cover is Miata sized and covers the whole Goblin, splitter and rear spoiler. Wheels, I have a 2x4 tire rack made against my back wall to hold wheels.
 
Desert Sasqwatch
Or put the car up on jack stands with the tires off the concrete and air them down to 10-15 psi. Put a plastic trash bag on each one to prevent ozone exposure, especially if you have a furnace, water heater, or garage heater in the enclosed garage space that won't be ventilated very often.
 
Rttoys
I use a utv cover, but that’s just for when I’m out and about overnight and such, like at goblinfest. we drive ours year round. Actually, much much less from June to October due to being too hot. Can’t remember what utv I bought mine for though. Sorry.
 
Traé
I got this from Walmart, its brand is Budge and the size I got was #4. Fits very well but doesn’t wrap underneath of the tires while it’s off the ground. If you’re taking the tires off it should be perfect. Last winter I put the goblin on furniture dollies for storage.
54286
 
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comegetjoe
Put the car away for the winter. The garage where im storing it for the winter is just behind me. Its up on stands and covered until spring.

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I am putting it away still without a solution, f-ing baffled as to why it wont make boost without throwing a tantrum. Maybe I'll actually take it to a reputable tuner with a dyno and see if they can make something happen in the spring.

Back to being grumpy.
 
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comegetjoe
PCV.
Someone tells me it could be a bad PCV in the intake manifold acting like a boost leak. Its a little time consuming to pull the intercooler/intake/lines etc, but if it fixes my problem Ill be very pleased.
 
Goblinfanclub1234
comegetjoe
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Dale E
Keep in mind that there were two styles of PCV. One as pictured here earlier and the cone/funnel shape as @David posted. At one point they sold a new style and it was like the one posted earlier, but I don't know if they were then interchangeable.

The one posted here seems to be available on Amazon and various other sites. The cone/funnel one is discontinued.

About three years ago (??) I gave Lonny a box with a couple of each style, but I don't know if he still has any..
 
A
I hate to ask a question that's already been answered in a thread, but 40 pages is a ton.

Did you end up doing anything with that mystery 2.4L engine? If it really is a 2.4 it'll have a 6-bolt crank which means it can't use the same flywheel as the LNF. No stock 6-bolt crank Ecotec was ever adapted to the F40 so you would need a custom flywheel, I believe.
 
comegetjoe
Nope, havent touched it. Its in the corner of my garage waiting, waiting for the unfortunate loss of the stock bottom end of this LNF to go out before I really look into swapping it in.

Looking back at all of it. I dont think its a 2.4.
Now having a 2.4 LE5 SS in my posession, there are a lot of differences that just dont seem like it makes sense. My cross referenced ebay parts is what lead me to beleive that it was a 2.4. There is definitely flat top pistons, d.i. and a sand cast block.


But, if an F35 car can be F40 swapped and an F35 car can be F23 swapped, there has to be some combo of clutch parts that works. Or am I missing something? TELL ME! lol
 
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