V1 Robinjo #405 Full Cage - 2006 SS/SC Build "Drago"

[Chris_WNC]

Give us some feedback on those chase lights when you get a chance. I’m not happy with my tinted motorcycle lights and want to change them out eventually.

 

[Rttoys]

Give us some feedback on those chase lights when you get a chance. I’m not happy with my tinted motorcycle lights and want to change them out eventually.

If it matters, I used Honda grom taillights (upside down) on mine. I had to make a bracket for them, but I did that in my prefab stage. Could possibly be adapted with the stock brackets. There’s actually many sport bike tail lights that could work on the goblin.

 

[JBINTX]

If it matters, I used Honda grom taillights (upside down) on mine. I had to make a bracket for them, but I did that in my prefab stage. Could possibly be adapted with the stock brackets. There’s actually many sport bike tail lights that could work on the goblin.
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OHHHHH!!!
There's the old muffler that went KABLOOOOIE!!!!!! :0

 

[Robinjo]

Will that strobe the entire time you're on the brakes or is there a 1-2 second cutoff?

I think it would strobe the whole time.

 

[RCK605]

I think it would strobe the whole time.

I have the same lights. They strobe as long as you supply 12v. I didn't wire any of my lights into the factory harness and use the strobe for my blinker.

 

[comegetjoe]

If it matters, I used Honda grom taillights

I like them and the placement.

 

[Rttoys]

I like them and the placement.

Thanks! I did a lot of sitting and staring trying to figure out something that would compliment the lines of the rear of the frame. After image searching a ton of bikes and utv’s I looked over at my Grom and thought “no way”. Pulled the tail light flipped it over and held it up to the goblin. Bingo.

oh. Pro tip. If you do this, you’ll need stock Grom taillights. The cool aftermarket ones that have the turn signals integrated into the tail light, and strobing brake light, won’t work properly. With the pulsating brake light and strobe turn signal, it confuses the bcm on the goblin/cobalt and it just shuts it all down.

 

[Robinjo]

Give us some feedback on those chase lights when you get a chance. I’m not happy with my tinted motorcycle lights and want to change them out eventually.

So far I like them. Easy to install, are bright and different-ish. I made it come to a plug, so I can go back to the DF style anytime I want to just to switch it up. I like that aspect about things, being able to pop them on/off when ever I please. Much like my LSJ plug cover, I have two of those that I switch out. One is 3D printed and says "Goblin" and the stock one is the same color red as the frame. Which reminds me, it's time to switch it up again......

List of Items to Work on:
-Swap to LSD trans
-Tighten clutch block
-Harness Bar
-Install 2nd HX Unit
-Pull wiring harness & solder connections
-Run LED lights for 'Goblin' plug cover
-Run AFR wire from A/C
-Gut A/C unit
-Install new tail lights
-Rotate Tires
-Alignment
-Modular pulley install
-S/C coupler & oil change
-Exhaust studs
-3rd brake light not working?

 

[mike_sno]

Attached. All I've done since this is disable VATs and remove a bunch of the MIL codes for Bank 2 oxygen sensors and Evap Stuff.

Do you have the original LSJ Stage 2 tuning file from GM? I can not find it on the HPTuner Website, they have only the standard LSJ file. If I compare that file to min, I see that several fields are change. RPM 7000 for example. I guess after the discussion we had regarding the pulley, that I might have an engine with the original GM stage 2 PCM.

 

[Gtstorey]

There are two 2006 GM stage 2 tunes in the HPT repository.

 

[Robinjo]

Update to my build, pulled the engine and harness for my winter projects over the last week. LSD trans went on like normal but noticed I need to redo my oil pan seal. That won’t be hard with the subframe out but just an unexpected extra. Removing all the shrink/solder connectors was a pain. About half of them pulled out easily so the only thing holding my harness together was the black tape. Got all of these joints soldered and then shrink wrapped. Now just routing the harness better. Going to have to extend a few wires but can make things route much cleaner, especially the AFR and boost gauge add ones that were installed after the main build.


List of Items to Work on:
-Harness Bar
-Run LED lights for 'Goblin' plug cover —> ordered
-Run AFR wire from A/C
-S/C coupler & oil change
-3rd brake light not working —> ordered
-Oil pan reseal

 

[Robinjo]

Got the harness hooked up and engine fired which was a huge relief. A couple of pesky things to sort. The biggest one is a P0463 for fuel circuit and my gauge isn’t reading level with a warning of low fuel. Anyone off hand know which of the four wires at the pump connector deals with the fuel level sensor. I think it could be three sections that might have a break: fuel sensor wires to ECM wire(s),ECM to BCM wire(s) or BCM to cluster. Other minor issues that are easier and then reinstalling the subframe, axles and interior.

Resealing the oil pan was very easy with the subframe off. I did it a while ago with the subframe in and it was a fight. Pretty confident this caused a leak. So, do your pan seal when you have the subframe out.

List of Items to Work on:
-Harness Bar
-Run LED lights for 'Goblin' plug cover —> ordered
-Run AFR wire from A/C
-S/C coupler & oil change
-3rd brake light not working —> ordered
-Oil pan reseal
-Fuel level sensor P0436
-Passenger brake/turn signal light

 

[Ross]

Fuel pump sensor connector here, and wiring here.

AllData has the wires colors wrong, but I know how to fix it:

 

[Robinjo]

What does Low Reference (purple) do? I think I need to be chasing the pink/orange one but just making sure.
If ground or supply voltage were the issue it wouldn’t pump fuel, correct?

From the schematic, I don’t understand where the pink wire is running to. I think it’s saying to go to the PCM (ECM)?

 

[mike_sno]

What does Low Reference (purple) do? I think I need to be chasing the pink/orange one but just making sure.
If ground or supply voltage were the issue it wouldn’t pump fuel, correct?

From the schematic, I don’t understand where the pink wire is running to. I think it’s saying to go to the PCM (ECM)?

Low Reference is a fancy ground of the analog input of the pcm. It's the reference ground level of the PCM. Most of the times that's exactly the same as ground, but I would be careful with this. If you think you can just connect that to ground, it might work or it gives some weird and nasty to find errors.

In this plug Pin 1 and 3 are necessary to run the fuel pump and pin 2 and 4 to read the fuel level.

 

[Ross]

The pink wire goes to the PCM, on the C1 connector, pin 29.
The purple Low reference is normally 5V+ power wire for sensors.
Correction: Low reference is normally 5V- wire for sensors. (Thanks @mike_sno)

 

[mike_sno]

The pink wire goes to the PCM, on the C1 connector, pin 29.
The purple Low reference is normally 5V+ power wire for sensors.

Interesting, I think you are right low reference would be 5V for the analog input and not ground. Will test that when I'm next time at my car. So it might not be ground as my message above stated.

 

[Robinjo]

Is purple going to C1 12? I can check both for continuity to hopefully narrow down my issue.

Other issue is my passenger rear brake/turn signal is not working. Running light comes on, so that and ground are ok. I know that one runs from the BCM A12 back.

 

[Ross]

A few years ago, I was testing the purple wire.

 

[Ross]

Interesting, I think you are right low reference would be 5V for the analog input and not ground. Will test that when I'm next time at my car. So it might not be ground as my message above stated.

I could be wrong... just running from memory.
My old testing (above) doesn't show the purple wire as a steady 5V+ power, which I expected.
I know the AllData wire colors are bogus information... so I don't have a lot of faith in there wiring schematics either.
Perhaps this is the right colors:

These colors would make Purple go to C1, 12, like @Robinjo mentioned.