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V1 Shadow Lou Racing, street,track,autocross Goblin

George
Finished the front sway bar. It is a 3/4" bar 49" long with 6" arms. In softest position produces 154 pounds per inch wheel rate. Dropped the front spring rate from 600# to 400#. Took a quick test drive corners flat feels good but need more mile and different conditions to make sure. May have to change rear spring a little to make a better match.

Brad
 

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Desert Sasqwatch
Clean installation, brackets look battle ready. Do you have a rear swaybar also? It is great that you are sharing this information and have the time to dial in your car, it will help many others on the forum. Thanks!
 
George
Do not plan to run a rear bar at this time. Working on taking the roll couple in the front.
Will change rear spring rates to creat the balance is am looking for. The rear will hookup better without the rear bar. If it was running at 140mph on road course maybe.

Brad
 
George
The 3/4" bar is mounted inside a 1.250 mounting with a oil inpregnated powded bronze bushing. Cut the tires with a groving iron with blades installed upside down.

Brad
 
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George
I have already removed the Ackerman. This was done to make the steering quicker. Requires less amount of steering movement to turn.
Brad
 
George
Over the winter the clutch disc got changed, from the beginning it has been had to get into gear and will not shift above 7000rpm. The old disc was bent by 0.200". The new clutch disc is a six puck solid center, works great. Had to learn how to take off with out killing. One side benefit is further reduced the jerkiness when taking off because of the absents of the springs in the clutch center. All in all a 100% improvement.
Well I installed power steering. Really like the no power steering but the car is going to run autocross all season, trying to get the Goblin setup in the E Mod class. If we can get SCCA to approve it for the national runoff.
On the steering went with a fail safe style. That is if you loose all power it is very derivable. It is out of a Toyota Camry.
Same manufacture as the Cobalt. But it returns to center much easier. And with the shorting of the steering arm it well be easier and quicker for better times.
The power steering is not speed dependent. Trying to adapt a knob to adjust the level of power of the power steering.
Brad
 
BAR-AIR
Good Afternoon,
Froze my ass off.... but ran BLUE over to get it re Dynoed for drivability instead of for DOT requirements. Mostly to change the shifting schedule. But have been running it without the power steering plugged in. Other then a little stiffer at really slow speeds (as in backing into the garage). I actually like it better with it off then with it on. Getting ready to disassemble the power steering portion and eliminate it.
18842758-B12A-4023-B47C-E051FF2A161E.jpeg

I think I can remove the geared section and connect the two stub shafts with a piece of 7/8” VW steering shaft material. Then run a carrier bearing to hold it in alignment.
Bruce
 
George
On mine the motor was removed. Then the area where the torque shaft is we welded the two shaft together to remove the flex. And reinstalled the steering gear. I prefer the manual my self but since the steering ratio is changed for autocross the power steering will make for better times.

Brad
 
KLMOTORSPORTS
Over the winter the clutch disc got changed, from the beginning it has been had to get into gear and will not shift above 7000rpm. The old disc was bent by 0.200". The new clutch disc is a six puck solid center, works great. Had to learn how to take off with out killing. One side benefit is further reduced the jerkiness when taking off because of the absents of the springs in the clutch center. All in all a 100% improvement.
Well I installed power steering. Really like the no power steering but the car is going to run autocross all season, trying to get the Goblin setup in the E Mod class. If we can get SCCA to approve it for the national runoff.
On the steering went with a fail safe style. That is if you loose all power it is very derivable. It is out of a Toyota Camry.
Same manufacture as the Cobalt. But it returns to center much easier. And with the shorting of the steering arm it well be easier and quicker for better times.
The power steering is not speed dependent. Trying to adapt a knob to adjust the level of power of the power steering.
Brad
I was curious what class the Goblin would run in SCCA Autocross...E Mod would sound reasonable to me...would hate to see where it would run like A Mod. Any idea when SCCA will determine the class for the Goblin? Will be strictly running Autocross with mine....thanks!

Ken
 
George
We are doing the paper work this year hoping for next seasons nationals. Have installed fenders to be legal. Will keep you posted on our progress.
Brad
 
BAR-AIR
Good Evening,
Here are the guts of the electric power steering. (If anyone is interested)... Going to cut at the blue tape lines and weld in a piece of 7/8” chrome steering shaft then remount a carrier bearing in the same position as the original into the frame. Going to keep the slip joint more concerned about my son harpooning himself in a crash.
B28995C4-889F-49DF-9886-C3AB0021B46A.jpeg

Bruce
 
Waterdriver
We are doing the paper work this year hoping for next seasons nationals. Have installed fenders to be legal. Will keep you posted on our progress.
Brad
I would think the Goblin would be classed the same as an Ariel Atom. Which I haven't found a clear answer on yet.
You said you had to install fenders to be legal to autocross? Is that stated in the rules somewhere?
I have seen and I thought I saw in the classes listings they have other open wheeled cars like Formula Fords, Super Vee"s and the like. I know they dont run fenders, running slicks.
 
George
For E Mod yes. When looking from the top of the fender 50% of tread width must be covered. As fo getting Goblin in E mod you must summit paper work about the car to get in a specific class or it runs A Mod.
I do not believe any one has tried to get the Atom classafied.
Brad
 
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