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V1 Matt3458's Daily Goblin - 2006 SS/SC #480

Matt3458
Finally got back to work on the Goblin. Floor is installed and coolant hoses are run. I've got some cleanup with the urethane. Also got it all over me. Running the coolant hoses went ok, though the second one snapped about 2 inches from the end of the frame rail. Luckily it pulled back out without much hassle.

My tip, instead of trying to find a wire stiff enough to run through the rail to pull the rope through, just use a tape measure. Worked great.

45582
 
ToothMagician
Finally got back to work on the Goblin. Floor is installed and coolant hoses are run. I've got some cleanup with the urethane. Also got it all over me. Running the coolant hoses went ok, though the second one snapped about 2 inches from the end of the frame rail. Luckily it pulled back out without much hassle.

My tip, instead of trying to find a wire stiff enough to run through the rail to pull the rope through, just use a tape measure. Worked great.

View attachment 45582
Haha that's pretty clever. I think I used some extra romex I had laying around. Engine will be in before you know it.
 
Matt3458
Trying to look ahead, some people have said it's easier to set up the intercooler and fan before installing the radiator while there's more space. I have the pvc pipes, but does the heat exchange and fan come in stage 2 or am I missing something?
 
Matt3458
Still slowing moving forward. Got Stages 2+3 ordered at the end of March, just waiting for shipping. I've got a new timing chain and accessories to replace and am about to pull the rad and clean up the engine. Is there still a need to relocate the MAF and speed sensor wiring as shown in the archived build video 15? The 'current' build videos don't mention it, but that also about where they stopped making them.
 
Rauq
I don't think there's a need to move the speed sensor in comparison to a standard configuration Cobalt wiring setup, but extra length on the MAF leg is nice to have.
 
Matt3458
I'm back! Finally!

I stopped before putting the radiator on because I realized putting the heat exchanger behind it would be a lot easier to do before than after, and I was quickly running out of Stage 1 parts. Unfortunately, DF had some issues getting the parts to me, finally got everything settled in February of this year. By that time the garage was full of stuff and it took until spring and warm weather to get it cleared out.

But now! Heat exchanger is in, plumbed, wired. Radiator is in, plumbed, wired. Fuel tank is installed. I've got a week off starting later this week and I'll be putting in a new timing chain with the goal of having the engine mounted by the end.

Any progress is progress!
 
Matt3458
Over the past couple days I got the brake reservoir relocated, brake proportioning valve installed, and replaced my timing set. Pretty sure I did that right, though I'm expecting everything to leak immediately. Next goalis to get the engine installed, first need to shorten the battery cable and I have a torch on loan coming for that.

I've been looking at getting the front suspension set up. The arms seem extremely narrow, did anyone have this? I think I could make them flush by just cranking on the bolts but I don't want to go full muscle and break something. The upper arm is pretty close, the lower is pretty bad.
 

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comegetjoe
I've been looking at getting the front suspension set up. The arms seem extremely narrow, did anyone have this? I think I could make them flush by just cranking on the bolts but I don't want to go full muscle and break something. The upper arm is pretty close, the lower is pretty bad.

Yes. I recall this being a thing. Tighten 'em down.
 
Robinjo
How important would you say the transmission mount is?

Is that the mount between the transmission/engine and the firewall? f so, I ran mine for about half a year without that mount as I had trouble getting it into place. All I noticed once installing it was more vibration through the frame. I didn't notice any engine movement with only 3.
 
G
It probably would be fairly simple to grab the other 3 holes in the picture to make a secure mount. The bottom holes might need to be tapped or drilled through since I don't remember exactly what their configuration is.
 
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