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V1 Kyle's Street Goblin #228- 07 SS/SC Donor
Desert Sasqwatch
Bigfoot Goblin
- Desert Sasqwatch Bigfoot Goblin
That looks like the old camshaft from one of my Jeeps.
Kyle
Active Member
- Kyle Active Member
Fuel Pump Question:
My car's fuel gauge doesn't work and that is something I'd like to remedy. I know my float is actuating properly, so I assume the sending unit is bad. I figured I might as well replace the whole unit rather than trying to fix just the sending unit, if that is even possible. My question is:
Do I go with a $50 dollar eBay fuel pump, $250 Bosch, or something in the middle?
Being budget friendly is important to me but so is reliability. If you guys have any recommendations, I'd appreciate it!
My car's fuel gauge doesn't work and that is something I'd like to remedy. I know my float is actuating properly, so I assume the sending unit is bad. I figured I might as well replace the whole unit rather than trying to fix just the sending unit, if that is even possible. My question is:
Do I go with a $50 dollar eBay fuel pump, $250 Bosch, or something in the middle?
Being budget friendly is important to me but so is reliability. If you guys have any recommendations, I'd appreciate it!
- Gtstorey Goblin Guru
Sending units are available but not exactly cheap. The below is for a 2006 SS S/C Cobalt
2006 CHEVROLET COBALT 2.0L L4 Supercharged Fuel Sending Unit | RockAuto
2006 CHEVROLET COBALT 2.0L L4 Supercharged Fuel Pump & Housing Assembly | RockAuto
2006 CHEVROLET COBALT 2.0L L4 Supercharged Fuel Sending Unit | RockAuto
2006 CHEVROLET COBALT 2.0L L4 Supercharged Fuel Pump & Housing Assembly | RockAuto
Ross
Goblin Professor
- Ross Goblin Professor
Chad measured the fuel sender resistance here for a 2007 SS SC LSJ.
The stock sender unit doesn't work very well in our custom gas tanks... maybe this 10" one would work better.
They also make different length ones. Pretty cheap at $29.
The stock sender unit doesn't work very well in our custom gas tanks... maybe this 10" one would work better.
They also make different length ones. Pretty cheap at $29.
Scott #321
Well-Known Member
- Scott #321 Well-Known Member
My 2 cents worth from 30 years in automotive service. I never skimp on fuel pumps, ac compressors or master cylinders. Just my experience with aftermarket and rebuilt replacement parts. None of this applies to the performance aftermarket lines as I worked general repair and service.
Kyle
Active Member
- Kyle Active Member
Shout out to you guys for all your help and suggestions! I ended up going with Ross's idea. This is the sending unit I got:
I drilled a 1.5 inch hole for the sending unit to slip down in, and then 5 holes for it to bolt up to. Be weary of the "slosh/support rail" in the bottom of the tank when deciding where to put it. I bought new hardware as well. This is how it turned out:
The wiring was easy. On the fuel pump connector, you SPLICE one end into the black ground wire and CUT the purple wire and connect the second end to that.
The only downside is the sending unit is pretty cheap, so it doesn't use a continuous resistor. That means your gas gauge is only going to read in ~6 positions. My gauge didn't work at all so this is a huge improvement for me. I've run out of gas twice. Hopefully this will remedy that habit.
I might provide an update as to how much fuel the car takes when my gauge shows empty. I'm hoping around 6.5-7 gallons. They are 9 gallon tanks right?
Thanks again for everyone's help!
I drilled a 1.5 inch hole for the sending unit to slip down in, and then 5 holes for it to bolt up to. Be weary of the "slosh/support rail" in the bottom of the tank when deciding where to put it. I bought new hardware as well. This is how it turned out:
The wiring was easy. On the fuel pump connector, you SPLICE one end into the black ground wire and CUT the purple wire and connect the second end to that.
The only downside is the sending unit is pretty cheap, so it doesn't use a continuous resistor. That means your gas gauge is only going to read in ~6 positions. My gauge didn't work at all so this is a huge improvement for me. I've run out of gas twice. Hopefully this will remedy that habit.
I might provide an update as to how much fuel the car takes when my gauge shows empty. I'm hoping around 6.5-7 gallons. They are 9 gallon tanks right?
Thanks again for everyone's help!
Kyle
Active Member
- Kyle Active Member
I have a question that make some people roll their eyes... but can the heat exchanger and the radiator share a reservoir or are the different temperatures a concern? I'd like to install a Tee where the little heat exchanger reservoir is and route it to a nice aluminum reservoir that would be shared with the engine coolant. I just kind of figured that it wouldn't matter since the heat exchanger reservoir is a flow through style anyway.
Thoughts???
Thoughts???
- Gtstorey Goblin Guru
I wouldn't do. The radiator reservoir is pressurized and I don't see how it wouldn't act as one system, Which means the hot engine water would act likely heat the intercooler. Do you even need a reservoir on the heat exchanger system for anything other than a fill/ air bleed? I don't have one on my TC and I'm planning to remove the reservoir on my SC Camaro.
Ross
Goblin Professor
- Ross Goblin Professor
The heat exchanger is usually near ambient temperature (80F today). It warms up a bit (say 15 degrees) when driven hard (with a stock SC LSJ). If there was radiator fluid in there, it would be 180F degrees, which would be heating your intake air instead of cooling it.
The stock reservoir for the heat exchanger only holds a few ounces of fluid. You are better off keeping them separate. I have 2 different color coolants, so I can tell which system is leaking, if I have a leak.
The stock reservoir for the heat exchanger only holds a few ounces of fluid. You are better off keeping them separate. I have 2 different color coolants, so I can tell which system is leaking, if I have a leak.
Kyle
Active Member
- Kyle Active Member
Well, I tried changing up the way my ambient light sensor works and I'm pretty sure I some how really screwed up my car. I read you can swap out the sensor with a resistor to keep the dash lights at full brightness. This is when my dash stopped working.
I've checked every fuse with a multimeter. Twice. Nothing is blown. I can start the car if I jump the relay, but if I try to start it with the key it makes a terrible noise. None of my dash guages are working. An obd2 reader will show rpm and speed. Cruise control won't work. Signals and Hazards work, but the gauge cluster doesn't show indication. My brights don't work either.
Where the dash shows the mileage. Mine will show the mileage for a couple seconds when I turn the key but then go to dashed lines across the whole thing.
I'm really nervous. Hopefully it is nothing serious but I don't know what to do.
I've checked every fuse with a multimeter. Twice. Nothing is blown. I can start the car if I jump the relay, but if I try to start it with the key it makes a terrible noise. None of my dash guages are working. An obd2 reader will show rpm and speed. Cruise control won't work. Signals and Hazards work, but the gauge cluster doesn't show indication. My brights don't work either.
Where the dash shows the mileage. Mine will show the mileage for a couple seconds when I turn the key but then go to dashed lines across the whole thing.
I'm really nervous. Hopefully it is nothing serious but I don't know what to do.
